04-20-2008, 05:43 PM | #31 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: sudbury suffolk uk
Posts: 68
|
blueprint
phoned local part supplier and managed to get blueprint gasket set for half the price.
this is what toyota use as there genuine parts. worried about cam belt change and crank nut. getting it off i heard it can be a arse. how do i do it im really anal when it comes to this bit. timing is not my specialityt and it looks conplicated help appreciated.??? well got 3 days off now so its gonna be lap lap lapping til i snap my back. is it ok to work on little arears with pressure with less finer grit? |
04-20-2008, 07:45 PM | #32 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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No small areas. Work the enitrety of the block. You can touch up small things later..., after you have lapped, to completion.
Ah yes the crankshaft nut. 1st. be carefull that shaft pulley is brittle. I promise. Remove the starter, exposing an opening to the flywheel. You will need a giant pry bar type flathead screw driver. You wedge the driver into the flywheel causing it to catch while you jank the flywheel bolt. I tried all of the putting it in gear stories you will hear of. This is what worked for me. Alone by myself in the garage. Once you break that nut. The hard shite starts. You have to get that pulley off the shaft. Some say rock it with a screwdriver and a hammer. You have to walk it off regardless. So do what works for you. I'd marinate it in pb blaster for a few days myself. Remember. The crank shaft pulley is 350$ If they can find you a toyota oem replacement. |
04-20-2008, 07:46 PM | #33 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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Hey Andy..., if you don't own a dremel.
Get One. With the pencil grinder attachment. For Real. |
04-20-2008, 09:40 PM | #34 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: sudbury suffolk uk
Posts: 68
|
i couldnt sand the entire block as the tissue in the oil ways got in the way.
can i sand the top block with 1200 sanderpaper and oil as hard as i like then. if i take the tissue out of the chambers wont grit get inside them? any tips? very worried about that crank bolt is it realy that hard to get off then. do i need any special tools? is it best to do all this once the head is back on? cheers. |
04-20-2008, 10:16 PM | #35 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: duquesne pa 15110
Posts: 135
|
pls lit me give you a lil insight
ok just for the sake of being a pain in the but looking ahead. pretend the head is now off. it would behove you to stip of the not needed stuf attached to it!!!! no dont rip into it just get the attached stuff of ie: termo stat houseing egr valve, any ports like heater hoses. just take it all the way down to the head it self. buy a complete upper head gassket set and now for the painfull part [ok call me names] its realy not that bad just like to exagerate. buy the head and gassket set. dont forget the valve seals. AND have the head cheched at a machine shop. they will pressure check it to see if is cracked. if it is wrarped. they will plain it down to take the warp out. they will also reinstall your valve seels. doing this job w/out making sure there are no problems you dont see. WILL result in you doing the job over again and i am sure you dont want to do that. where i live it costs about a $100 to have the head done right. ohhh buy the way if you take them the parts you took off. and dont act the fool they might put all your parts back on w/the new gaskets you provide for them. but it is money well spent. it would suck so bad if you put it back togather only to find out your head should have been plained and that dam seal wont hold any thing. get a book and follow the tightening sequence and the tork specks. oh and it is a good idea to buy new head bolts that are already pre-streeched. hope i was some help and good luck.... dont forget to get all the old gaskut matterial off. the head will come baack soo cleal you could eat of it. now the bottom end will be cruddy. snap on sells a gaskut remover that cant be beat. not sure anyone eles sells them but if you can find it cheaper go for it snap on guys try to snap you bank account
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04-20-2008, 11:36 PM | #36 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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You need to take some pics of what you have going on man.
I don't want you making any major mistakes and if you aren't hitting the block in equal proportions. You're bound for trouble.. Use the feeler gauges and the level. Sand as hard as you want as long as you do it even. You can't skip big slots in sandpaper grade. You have to start heavy and go lighter, lighter and lighter still. I spent 3 weeks lapping my block, because I'm so anal. You just got started. If you're trying to sand blemished areas, all you are doing is digging after those areas making your total trip much further than it has to be. Sand the block till it's smooth and then smoother and smoother. If you take your time and stop rushing you'll see just what I mean. |
04-21-2008, 07:27 AM | #37 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: sudbury suffolk uk
Posts: 68
|
hey t.ortlieb, just to let you know skimming the head does not remove the warpage if you head is warped skimming wont help this just provides a flat smooth finish for the gasket to seal, if my head was warped id buy ia new one.
hey supramacist in just about to do some more lapping ill post some pictures of me lapping the block so you can see what im doing and if im doing it right etc. are you saying now ive started with 1200 grit paper i shouldnt now chage to a rougher paper to speed things up. im using a stock gasket with arp studs to seal the head dont trust mhg on my block dont think i can get it clean enough for a metal one. Q> when i undo the crank bolt and remove the pulley wont i lose my tdc positon???? confused , will i have to set the tdc by eye then replace the Pulley to 0. thnaks suprmacist your being a great help. just for your info mate, the head is having a skim, a clean a new o ring in the cam position sensor and a couple of helicoils in the exhaust side. the guy reckons if the engine was running sweet before not to touch the valves etc as this can wear out the bottom end, and to ba honest i have heard laot about rod knocking after a head gasket replacement and nobody needs this, thats a engine removal job, not for the faint hearted me thinks. |
04-21-2008, 10:27 AM | #38 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: sudbury suffolk uk
Posts: 68
|
thought id pop back in for a coffee, phew lap lap lap.
ive just started doing the block with a piece of wood that cover a good area of the block, 1200 paper and some 10/40 oil, surely i cant wear dawn areas onthe block with this method. |
04-21-2008, 10:31 AM | #39 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: sudbury suffolk uk
Posts: 68
|
sun at last
well theres a little bit of sun now so puhed the car out of garage.
heres some more block pictures after about 4 hours in total. |
04-21-2008, 01:04 PM | #40 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: sudbury suffolk uk
Posts: 68
|
hmm
found a mior indetation looks worse in photo. the other gasket never blew in this area. what you guys reckon?
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