Andy, it may be worth contacting this guy, he is in the Traders section on the UK site. SIP Racing (location US) http://www.sipracingmailorder.com/servlet/the-71/Toyota-Supra-7mgte-U-dsh-Cut/Detail

picked the head up today all excited about getting it back,
but i put the head on and started placing in the arp head studs and noticed a few are tight and a couple dont go in as far os the others, i looked down the holes and hovvered out before hand so not sure whats up?

unless some do go in further than others any info grateful on these head studs
cheers.

i see the head studs are longer than the original head bolts? im thinking threads holes might be deeper than others.

Have you tried screwing in an old head bolt to see if you have the same problem, how much longer are the new studs? I would have thought Toyota would have machined the threads deeper than required in the block to allow for the head and block to be skimmed. Sounds like you may have some rubbish in the threads of the hole. I think I would remove the head and use a long thin round brush to clean out the holes (the type spray shops use to clean out their paint spray guns or you may find them in a gun shop) screw in the new studs to see how far they go, you may need to result to cleaning the threads with a machine tap. You should be able to borrow one from the company that skimmed the head. They come in three types, bottoming, plug and taper, I would recommend you use the taper first as its easer to locate into threads without cross threading and shouldn’t cause any block material to be removed providing the hole is deep enough. As this is the most critical part of the engine I wouldn’t take any chances.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...f/brushset.jpg

i tried one of the old head bolts and it started to get tiff but met the top of the head these stud are about 3cm longer. im sure theres nothinh in the holes?? also i tried tightening the stud fairly tight heard this was wrong and should only be wound in finger tight??

someone was telling me that i need a special tap tool as the threads on the arp studs could be diffrent from your standard tapping equipment

none of them go in to far just a couple stick up i tried a 3/8 14mm 12 pt socket and it only fits on about 8 i would say. was thinking of replacing old bolts in replacement to the ones i cant work with (arp)

if i turned the studs upside down that will give me a bit more thread on nut as there longer thred on one side.

cant believe im in a pickle already. :(also im a bit worried as i was tightened the head studs quite a bit with a 5m allen key dont think i should of done that though the studs alone cant torque the head. this is just what i heard .

The hole in the head is only a clearance hole, and should have no effect on compressing the gasket if the stud is over tightened. I think they suggest finger tight to allow for the stud to rotate slightly when tightening up the nut. Otherwise if the stud was screwed in firmly into the block and the stud rotated causing it to tightened up even more, the stud would be difficult to be removed using a small 5mm allen key. Using a mixture of old bolts and new studs doesn’t sound a good idea. Read this http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/eb70536.htm
I know there\'s a lot or recommendation to use ARP studs, but there is also a lot of Supras that have had BHG repaired using stock Toyota head bolts.The set of APR studs you have don’t sound if they are for a 7M engine. As I said “this is the most critical part of the engine I wouldn’t take any chances”

A deep well 14mm and you\'ll be good.

You guys are making some of this more tough than it needs to be.