Timing question.

[cre]

Any codes?

Check the TPS alignment and test the IDL switch in it. Also check the ECU coolant sensor.

[mrnickleye]

I meant the p/s pump. You said you had it out to clean everything up. Did you have the dist. out during that work? If so, you may have it 2 or more tooth off. If not, then there is no reason to remove it, cause it didn't move on its own.

One tooth off won't make it do what your problem is.

I suspect that you co-incidentally have developed another problem. Sensor or circuit? Idle control?

[supramacist]

That's what I was afraid of. I figured by moving the 1 tooth I wouldn't bottom it out when timing.

Did I pull the codes. Yes. Never got this one before.
It was after I had timed it and decided to check.

My check engine light was flashing non stop with no dots or dashes, you know what I mean.

Thanks guys. I'll ponder the perplexities there of.

[supramacist]

I took it down the road and it's obviously working to pull through some hesitation in 3rd and 4th almost as if it needs a tune up.

I just put ngk iridiums in it and the msd wires don't have 2 hours on them.

I know the 1 tooth wasn't an issue so it's throwing effort after want and that's a lose lose.

So I guess I need to remove the upper rad hose after sac'ing up and draining coolant. SO I can fully remove the cam gear cover and make sure everything is at tdc and start from scratch.

I don't know if I do shite the hard way or if this is just life as I know it.

[IHateHacks]

cre: Actually, at proper idle speed, and the jumper disconnected. The timing will be about 13 degrees btdc and will go higher the higher you rev.

I had a feeling you just grabbed the timing light and went gung ho.

You are just like me in that sense. When stuff goes down, you forget everything you learned and run around in circles. I think it's all that weed I smoke....

This may sound dumb, but is the throttle sticking? You say it holds an idle but after you drive it it rev's out?

Glad I could help as little as I did.

Just read this:

So I guess I need to remove the upper rad hose after sac'ing up and draining coolant. SO I can fully remove the cam gear cover and make sure everything is at tdc and start from scratch.

That should have been the very first thing you did after you checked the codes.

If all checks out ok, I'd look for a vacuum leak. You DID change the plugs and wires, vacuum lines have to come off and they don't last forever.

I hope you figure it out.

[supramacist]

I've done the starting fluid test already. No noticable revs.

I have the cams and the crank at tdc. So I'm about to put all of that back together...., ya. I"m not done yet. The battery has been unhooked all night.

The throttle is a possibility. My lil bro was in from chicago and tightened some of that up. I thought maybe my butterfly wasn't seating as it should due to over tightening. So I'm awaiting a text on that. The throttle it self sticking? I don't think so. It was giving it to it when I was applying it. I know I'm running rich because I don't have a fuel pressure regulator yet. But this has nothing to do with, I can't get it to idle after operating temp is hit below 1800 rpm's. Hell, it drives it'self in 3rd gear. After I have timed it with the jumper wire. It's like the ecu is running amuck.

How low can I adjust the idle? I may have to move the tooth. I don't know yet. I'm grassping at straws.

I drained the coolant into a gallon jug that had a tad bit of dist water in it.
No oil floating yet so it looks good. But..., I didn't drain it completely. Only enough to get the upper rad hose off.

Something is definitley awry. I'll check back in after I hit another stopping point. Keep them comming I thank you all very very much.

EDIT: What the heck does it mean when the code light flashes consistently with no off sets???
I'm of the opinion that it means it's not throwing codes but i must confess I have not yet looked it up in my tsrm.
Atleast I'm honest.

[IHateHacks]

How did the ISC look when you had it off for the rebuild? Did you clean the check valve? Something might have gotten loosen from cleaning and crapped it up.

I don't know.

[supramacist]

I blew all of that muck out and it was more atf than anything.

Now I did have sludge in the line, upon removal. Which is why I cleaned it.
The inside of the power sterring res was black and couldn't be seen into.

Well, long story short I cleaned that biotch like my bong, and then loaded it up with lucas and drained it all out. I used gasoline to break the muck loose with a healthy dose of salt. It's a glass bong you see.

After draining. I read the tsrm for to check myself and applied every principle. So it's not the idle control valve I promise.

The p-stump system is tight. This idle thing is something else and it's stumping me. I don't want you guys giving me answers...., just direction.

So I can learn something here. Surely you cats can respect that.

[supramacist]

Alright I have everything back together accept the air intake.
I'm wondering what the trick is to get the ecu to reset itself????

Do I want to start it by monitoring the idle while it's cold and then check it after operating temp?

If it's idling right do I just let it run or what?

What's the next step if it's still doing its high rpm idle?

Because I have no idea other than to try it and see what happens and come back here and report.

I still keep having this nagging voice telling me to move the dizzy forward a tooth. Is this a solid mistake? Won't it give me more room to adjust the dist cap after I tighten it in? Or is it going to throw me further away from my goal?

Thanks again guys.

[ddmcse]

air/fuel mixture
vsv switches intake
unplug the battery will reset the ecu