Timing question. - Page 5

cre · 04-24-2008, 11:36 PM

The dashpot when working slows the throttle plate's return to 0? starting at 2000 RPM.

The way you set the dashpot is by reving and holding the engine above 2000 RPM, then you pinch the hose coming out of the dashpot, then release the throttle with the hose still pinched and the throttle should stay held at 2000 RPM by the dashpot.

The dashpot should retract slowly, but not too slowly. Under normal operation the dashpot's actuator should return after just a second... if it takes longer it's sticking and it DOES hod the throttle open thus leaving the ECU without an IDL signal.

The brown and white valve on the hose connected to the dashpot is a damper and it is directional. The brown side is what connects to the hose and the white has the breather... yours is correctly connected, I just figured I would add this info for future reference.

For the last time, what screw are you adjusting for the idle? Knock it off and fix the f#$%ing cause of the code 51 first! It's time to suck it up, act like a woman and RTFM!

EDIT: You know, with the dash pot finally mentioned, EVERY possible cause for your problem has been listed in this thread... time to reread the thread and listen to what advice has been given man.

supramacist · 04-25-2008, 12:19 AM

Oh I got ya what ever rtfm means. woman up rtfm???

Look I'm learning. I know what's what and You guys are 100 percent correct.

The screw that has the nut around it on the exhaust side pic of the dash pot. It adjusts the distance between connection. I'm positive it's the screw that IHateHacks was referring too.

I also believe after reading this last post cre. That my dashpot is working.
It seems slow to me but your description of it's function is exactlly how it's acting. Thanks for the tip on how to reset it. Now when the car is running. I think my dash pot is sticking sticking stuck.

LOL, dude. I know I have it and I know it's all right here. I'm going to keep trying until I know it's nothing I'm doing.

Thank you all. I'll post progress as it occurs.

cre · 04-25-2008, 12:20 AM

RTFM = Read The F@#$ing Manual

supramacist · 04-25-2008, 12:30 AM

Hey man..., when I'm actually working. I figure it out faster than I can normally find it in the manual. I have been in that biotch today.

But I'm stupid like this. I may not know the names of everything. But once I get done fixing them I won't forget anytime soon.

I think I'm going to woman up and just get a new dashpot on order.

Hello. Here's the kicker a few days back I notice a couple of bee's in the garage no biggie shut em out, they leave. Right now as I type a hive is eating its way out of an empty box for my air compressor. I have the stereo on and I can still hear them hum. I think I may need a priest.

So anyway. I came back up hoping someone could just affirmate my direction and kill a few minutes since I didn't un hook the battery. And I have. Thank You.

I'm gone.

supramacist · 04-25-2008, 01:12 AM

OK.

It's showing no codes. I tested the dashpot as cre said. It acted just as it should have.

It seems that the dashpot doesn't want to decompress fully which in turn is slowly bumping the idle up. Till it just jumps open to 2000 rpm'ish then it sticks.

The idle is steady on the 10 mark. I don't go much for that advanced timing schmaz..., but to each there own.

Even when reving by hand or in the car the dashpot just seems hesitant to let the hammer drop fully.

I think we have Found my problem.

On a lighter note the AFM and the cheapo 10$ filter have worked well.
I did as you fellers told me and haven't had an issue with the coolant light at all today. Idling or driving

cre · 04-25-2008, 01:55 AM

Try clamping the dashpot's actuator down with a zip tie, then go for a drive. The only thing that'll happen with the dashpot's plunger rendered inactive is that the engine with spike rich when you dump the throttle... the car may jerk a little (try to slow harder than usual) at that point.

If the idle returns to normal and the TPS is properly set, and the code 51 is gone, THEN you may proceed with setting the timing.

supramacist · 04-25-2008, 02:09 AM

When applying pressure to the dashpot it seems like it's going to kill the engine.

cre · 04-25-2008, 03:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supramacist

When applying pressure to the dashpot it seems like it's going to kill the engine.

Really? Were you or were you not doing something to manually adjust the idle? If so, then I'd start with trying to undo it.

supramacist · 04-25-2008, 04:50 AM

Well it never killed it but it wanted too it seemed.

I think I undid everything this last time around. Battery disconnect.
Hooked it back up. I was still throwing 51.

Went out and adjusted the dizzy, locked it in on 10. I set the idle screw back to where it was in the 1st place before doing so.

I"m still missing something and now I'm just too tired to keep thinking about it. Even though I want to. As it sits right now. It's in time and has no codes.

I'm about to have my last smoke of the day and call it quits till tomorrow.

I have just the zip tie for your project and I'll play around with it all day again, I'm sure sinse it's not done yet.

Why can't my dashpot just need to be replaced?

supramacist · 04-25-2008, 04:17 PM

Alright, alright.

All fresh and revived. I have a new dashpot on order.

I'm going out to find that gargantuan zip tie. I sware it's 3 feet long.

Try this shite out and hope to tell toyo to stick that new part back up there inventory shoot.

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04-24-2008, 11:36 PM	#41
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	The dashpot when working slows the throttle plate's return to 0? starting at 2000 RPM. The way you set the dashpot is by reving and holding the engine above 2000 RPM, then you pinch the hose coming out of the dashpot, then release the throttle with the hose still pinched and the throttle should stay held at 2000 RPM by the dashpot. The dashpot should retract slowly, but not too slowly. Under normal operation the dashpot's actuator should return after just a second... if it takes longer it's sticking and it DOES hod the throttle open thus leaving the ECU without an IDL signal. The brown and white valve on the hose connected to the dashpot is a damper and it is directional. The brown side is what connects to the hose and the white has the breather... yours is correctly connected, I just figured I would add this info for future reference. For the last time, what screw are you adjusting for the idle? Knock it off and fix the f#$%ing cause of the code 51 first! It's time to suck it up, act like a woman and RTFM! EDIT: You know, with the dash pot finally mentioned, EVERY possible cause for your problem has been listed in this thread... time to reread the thread and listen to what advice has been given man.

04-25-2008, 12:19 AM	#42
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Oh I got ya what ever rtfm means. woman up rtfm??? Look I'm learning. I know what's what and You guys are 100 percent correct. The screw that has the nut around it on the exhaust side pic of the dash pot. It adjusts the distance between connection. I'm positive it's the screw that IHateHacks was referring too. I also believe after reading this last post cre. That my dashpot is working. It seems slow to me but your description of it's function is exactlly how it's acting. Thanks for the tip on how to reset it. Now when the car is running. I think my dash pot is sticking sticking stuck. LOL, dude. I know I have it and I know it's all right here. I'm going to keep trying until I know it's nothing I'm doing. Thank you all. I'll post progress as it occurs.

04-25-2008, 12:20 AM	#43
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	RTFM = Read The F@#$ing Manual

04-25-2008, 12:30 AM	#44
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Hey man..., when I'm actually working. I figure it out faster than I can normally find it in the manual. I have been in that biotch today. But I'm stupid like this. I may not know the names of everything. But once I get done fixing them I won't forget anytime soon. I think I'm going to woman up and just get a new dashpot on order. Hello. Here's the kicker a few days back I notice a couple of bee's in the garage no biggie shut em out, they leave. Right now as I type a hive is eating its way out of an empty box for my air compressor. I have the stereo on and I can still hear them hum. I think I may need a priest. So anyway. I came back up hoping someone could just affirmate my direction and kill a few minutes since I didn't un hook the battery. And I have. Thank You. I'm gone.

04-25-2008, 01:12 AM	#45
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	OK. It's showing no codes. I tested the dashpot as cre said. It acted just as it should have. It seems that the dashpot doesn't want to decompress fully which in turn is slowly bumping the idle up. Till it just jumps open to 2000 rpm'ish then it sticks. The idle is steady on the 10 mark. I don't go much for that advanced timing schmaz..., but to each there own. Even when reving by hand or in the car the dashpot just seems hesitant to let the hammer drop fully. I think we have Found my problem. On a lighter note the AFM and the cheapo 10$ filter have worked well. I did as you fellers told me and haven't had an issue with the coolant light at all today. Idling or driving

04-25-2008, 01:55 AM	#46
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Try clamping the dashpot's actuator down with a zip tie, then go for a drive. The only thing that'll happen with the dashpot's plunger rendered inactive is that the engine with spike rich when you dump the throttle... the car may jerk a little (try to slow harder than usual) at that point. If the idle returns to normal and the TPS is properly set, and the code 51 is gone, THEN you may proceed with setting the timing.

04-25-2008, 02:09 AM	#47
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	When applying pressure to the dashpot it seems like it's going to kill the engine.

04-25-2008, 04:50 AM	#49
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Well it never killed it but it wanted too it seemed. I think I undid everything this last time around. Battery disconnect. Hooked it back up. I was still throwing 51. Went out and adjusted the dizzy, locked it in on 10. I set the idle screw back to where it was in the 1st place before doing so. I"m still missing something and now I'm just too tired to keep thinking about it. Even though I want to. As it sits right now. It's in time and has no codes. I'm about to have my last smoke of the day and call it quits till tomorrow. I have just the zip tie for your project and I'll play around with it all day again, I'm sure sinse it's not done yet. Why can't my dashpot just need to be replaced?

04-25-2008, 04:17 PM	#50
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Alright, alright. All fresh and revived. I have a new dashpot on order. I'm going out to find that gargantuan zip tie. I sware it's 3 feet long. Try this shite out and hope to tell toyo to stick that new part back up there inventory shoot.