04-25-2008, 07:34 PM | #51 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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UPDATE:
I did the zip tie trick. I drove the car through the subdivision twice. The car ran goos but idles at 2,500 rpm. SO now I'm going to remove the zip tie and adjust the timing accordingly. After I zip tied the plunger down. I was throwing code 51. So I guess I should have took it off and then pulled codes before I posted. But that's where I'm at with it. I'll be back in a bit. |
04-25-2008, 08:14 PM | #52 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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Alright, Gents.
I removed the kong zip tie from the dashpot. I placed a thick towel around and underneath the throttle body, and pb blastered the hell out of the entire thing and worked it by hand with the car off and battery still unhooked. I hook up the battery and yes the jumper wire. I also go ahead and try to save a few steps and hook up the timing light. SO I turn the key and she's flashing no codes. I didn't even start the thing I cam up here to post. The plunger on the dashpot does seem more responsive than it did before the zip tie. Did it cure it? I don't know I'm going to go and start it and check the timing and see where she's at but it seems to be flowing well. Thanks again guys. |
04-25-2008, 10:35 PM | #53 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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All's well. It's working better. I can at least get under the hood and correct it really easily till my new dashpot gets here next week.
Other than that no codes. No coolant light, no nothing just some smooth running. Thanks for all of the help. |
04-26-2008, 11:41 AM | #54 |
Lexus & 550's
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Just wondering if you ever checked the TPS resistances to make sure it was sending the right signals to the ecu. And if you do have to calibrate it you need to remove the throttle body to do it correctly.
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