bad fpr?
 

I have an 89 manual with a no start problem. I have spark to the plugs, but it won't start. I tried jumping the battery + to the fp in the diag port and heard nothing. I have done it on a working supra so I know what it is supposed to sound like. my firing order is correct, all connections good, fuel injectors getting signal, fuel pump itself works, not sure what else to do, please help! could it be my fpr, I leaded away from it because the regualtor itself is manual (no electrical connection)but I'm out of ideas.

Turbo or N/A?

If you're not getting power to the fuel pump, the FPR isn't the thing to be worrying about... ;)

EDIT:

Nevermind, I looked back and see it's an N/A.

You might need to rent a fuel pressure gauge set to check the pressure at the fuel rail. Typically, there's enough pressure to get the car to stumble for a bit if not idle roughly... at least from what I've seen.

Have you tried to crank the engine with FP and B+ jumped?

Have you tested the injectors? MK3 TSRM On-Line

sorry bout not posting the aspiration. no I haven't tried cranking it with the fp jumped, never even thought about it... I'll test the injectors tomorrow. can I just use a piece of metal or a screwdriver to check for the noise? or is that thing there talking about special?

If you're testing them in the car yes, you can use a steel rod or even a wooden dowel to listen to them. Just tap them quickly with 12v and you should hear them click pretty solidly. Don't hold the voltage to them or you could burn out the coil.

Odd thought, but humor me, have you checked all your fuses?

yes, I have checked all my fuses, but I will admit I didn't start there. I tested the main relay just for fun and it's fine. the injectors didn't click when I applied 12v to them, nor did I feel any click while cranking. I don't know what happened, it ran fine last week. what should I try now?

oh, also, with the fp jumped to the b+, you should hear some sort of noise, and I get nothing.

Okay... gotta step back a little here.

When you turn the key in the ignition do the warning lights all come on (they're supposed to)?
Does the engine turn over when cranked?
Is the Air Flow Meter connected?
Is the Fuel pump resistor pack and relay in place and connected (they're the two silver thingies with a big round yellow connector, located on the passenger tire well)?
Have you tested the impedance of the injectors with a multimeter (the specs are listed in the link I posted earlier)?

If jumping FP and B+ does not turn on the fuel pump then the fuel pump or it's wiring is faulty. You really should rent a fuel pressure gauge to make sure the pump isn't turning on and just quiet... there's a fair difference in the amount of noise made just by having a full tank of gas as opposed to an empty one.

Do you have any error codes?

everything is connected and in its proper place. all the lights come on with the key on, and the engine cranks. I haven't done an impedance test yet, I'll check that out right now. the fp to b+ does turn on the pump, but the haynes maual said there should be a fuel return noise from the fpr, and there isn't.

unless my multimeter is faulty, my injectors may be bad. I could'nt get to 3and 4, but 1,2,5,and 6 were all at 6.5 ohms, its supposed to be at 13.8... I could understand if it was just 1 or 2, but all of them bad at the same time??? and even with low impedence, it should still fire shouldn't it?

What color are the injectors? Yellow or green?

If they're yellow there should be a resistor pack on the driver's side tire well... looks a lot like the resistor pack for the fuel pump on the passenger side tire well.

one other test, I pulled the connector off the injector solenoid resistor, and did an impedence test, I got 8 ohms for 10 and 30, but no signal for 20... ( I believe its injectors 3 and 4)

the injectors are green, why?

I asked the color because in '89 there were a number of changes made to the MKIII electrical system, including the N/A's injectors. You will find on occassion a '89 with part '88 wiring and part '89+ wiring. If they were yellow the resistance specs would be the same as the GTE's.

Anyway, I'm not convinced it's the injectors. Even if 4 were out it would still buck and cough when cranked.

You're not getting any error codes? You've tested the fuel pump relay and resistor pack? Have you double checked the AFM's connection? The car does have gas right (this did happen to someone before... broken gas gauge)?

I am suspicious of the fuel pump, you should grab a pressure testing kit and check it...

OR you can do it low tech style (don't assume I recommend this method.. you do it and screw it up it's your problem.. I accept no responsibility): Disconnect the fuel feed line, connect a hose to it. Run the hose to a bucket off to the side of the car. Wrap a damp towel around the union (to prevent fumes from escaping). Now, with someone holding the hose in the bucket jumper FP and B+.... got fuel?

I haven't checked for error codes, I'm looking at the tsrm right now to figure out how to check them. and I just might try that pressure test method.

alright, checked error codes, 51, looks like the only one.

so I did some very advanced testing (pulled fuel line off, jumped fuel pump) and, yeah, no fuel whatsoever... but with the jumper wire in, if I go to the filler neck, I can hear the pump working. apparently there is no flow though. could it be the pump? and still no noise under the hood when I jump the pump.

You are aware that the fuel pump is IN the fuel tank, right? If you hear it from the filler neck it's probably not the problem unless the impeller broke free... in which case there's usually a little extra clatter.

If you're getting no fuel from the line your possibilities are:
Fuel pump (you could use an ammeter across FP and B+ to see if the pump is actually drawing power)
Clogged fuel filter
crush or blockage in the fuel line

If it's the filter or the pump it's usually easiest to pull the tank and replace both at the same time.

so, with the key on, the fp- b+ should have 12 v, or do I use an ohm reading?

Nope... Across B+ and the battery's ground there should always be 12v with the ignition in the on position.

To read current draw you need to set the meter for 10A, connect the leads in the correct locations on the meter (it's usually got a different plug for the positive lead), set the meter to 10A (or higher if depending on the meter), then you place the + lead in the B+ position and the - lead in the FP location, the meter will act as a jumper. The pump should start up and the meter will display the amperage being drawn... if I mixed up the + and - positions it'll show the amperage as -5.3A (or whatever), it's not an issue though.

If the coil in the fuel pump is shot the amperage will be very little or 0. If the pump is seized the amperage will be high.

And of course, I don't recall what the specs are supposed to be if it's good... :P

turns out I'm just retarded... while attempting to change the fuel filter, the filter ended up twisting, pinching off the line from the tank to the filter... anyway, I fixed that and now it runs like a champ. god I feel retarded. my new problem is I have no turn signals or hazard lights. I'm gonna start with the blinker relay, but any other ideas? the headlights go up and down, I have brake and normal tail lights.

Excellent!

Let's not dismiss the possibility too readily, ok? ;)

Is the hazard switch firmly plugged in? The Hazard Switch and the Flasher Relay are the only commonly shared power routes between the two systems.

MK3 TEWD On-Line

Good luck with this one. :x:










Sorry, couldn't help myself. :dance:

I am going to try replacing the relay since they are fairly cheap and see what happens...but I'm not sure which one it is. I looked at the fuse box, and I cant figure out which one is for the turn signal, and the sticker on the cover doesn't tell me which is which... I may just buy it and figure it out.

I'm ashamed to have to post my stupidity yet again. I took the center console covers off to detail the interior and forgot to plug in the hazard switch when I was done... yeah, it all works now.. For any of you out there, learn from me, work smarter not harder, start with the simple stuff first!!! and thank you cre for all your help!