04-28-2008, 08:39 PM | #11 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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I remember when I first got this car. I thought she was pretty hot and it was sick. I just didn't know to what extent or degree.
Well after finding out. I realized I was about to have to learn some shit real fast. SO I have and now she's running again finally after a 2 summer long build. I have done so much to this car. That to answer that would be rough. But yes. there is an obvious difference. Especially with the wires and ngk iridiums. AC delete. Rear seat delete. Rear stock speaker delete. Those speaker boxes alone I bet were close to 25lbs together. When the key clicks her off safe it just purrrrrs. There is obviously more torque throughout the power band. I'm also running a walbro fuel pump. I have done basically every mod to everything engine wise. I have an oem flywheel. Stock air intake. Stock exhaust manifold with stock pipe stuck to a 16inch glass pack. I only thought the car used to be ass endy. Now I pulse the throttle and they're spinning. The rear strut bar is great. It's a jic magic. It deffinitley stiffens all of that up. The blaster coil is a good starting point. But you can't 1 piece at a time it. You have to do a full tune up. Oh. I also have a stock oem clutch from O'rielly's the 150$ model. Let yall know when that 1 smokes. |
04-28-2008, 08:50 PM | #12 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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I've heard just as many people say that coil did nothing as I've heard say positive things about it. Regardless of whether it's got potential, you're not going to get anything from something like that unless you've got more to back it up.
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04-28-2008, 09:16 PM | #13 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
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I think it basically just makes things snap too.., a bit more like I would have originally expected the car to be in the 1st place. But I'm on the give me enough rope method with my mods. SO I'm taking in some slack.
I'm going to let it roll as is for the first 1k miles before I get into the springs and shocks and whatnots. My original point was that it's hard to say with that 1 unit since the car was always sick. But overall. I have a vast improvement and thus far. I am happy with things. How they are and what's coming. If the engine holds together I can keep her running. |
04-28-2008, 09:28 PM | #14 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
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This avatar is what the bay looked like once I cleaned when I got it.
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04-28-2008, 09:51 PM | #15 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Oh, I understand. It's one of those things that needs to be tried on a healthy stock car and then on one with some basic mods. Even if it made a massive difference on my N/A that wouldn't mean it would do the same for someone else... my car's got too much in the way of mods.
So, no one likes my engine bay... so much for the hijack. |
04-28-2008, 09:57 PM | #16 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
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I thought your engine bay looked fine. For what you say the car is. it is.
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04-28-2008, 11:37 PM | #17 |
12psi boost
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Nor*Cal
Posts: 338
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I was thinking about getting the blaster coil with iridium plugs and NGK wires. Does the walbro fuel pump really help that much?
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04-29-2008, 01:47 AM | #18 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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The Walbro's really one of those "for down the road" mods. They're reliable as hell though and definitely worth the investment... Supramacist's got a long lived engine in mind.
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04-29-2008, 02:14 AM | #19 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
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Bullet proof is what I was aiming for.
I built the car to suit MY driving style. I can't express to you enough H8's. Any 1 thing doesn't do shite. You gather up a dozen little things and your shite just got real. You have to start somewhere. If you do plugs and wires and a blaster coil. Well you still need a new dry flow fliter and fluids check to complete this series. Start swappung out 15$ hoses when ever you get a shot at it and things aren't tight. Believe me your car has plenty for you to do with it...., without modding anything. You should get it running as close to stock as possible before mod1. Last edited by supramacist; 04-29-2008 at 02:19 AM. |
04-29-2008, 08:40 AM | #20 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Waco
Posts: 164
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LOL thats what im trying to do. make it solid before starting any mods but its hard as hell to keep on the road. Ive replaced half the car already I still have the other half to go. Nice engine bay btw.
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