Starting isssues and spark knock Q's - Page 5

spudz29212MKIII · 05-01-2008, 12:25 AM

yea cool...i got 7mgte so i just got the single and the 3000 pipe..but i dont even know if i am going to remove the intake side since its only loudest on exhaust side..

but yea i did my reading so i see whats going on in there...IF i do have to replace something excluding valves...you know a good place for them besides toyota...(i like my left leg still attatched)

supramacist · 05-01-2008, 12:28 AM

No ideas about where you are at.

I'd start calling speed shops and local parts stores and see who it is that they use.

cre · 05-01-2008, 12:44 AM

I'd just start with the exhaust side. Wait until yo see what's going on before you start looking for sources, a chewed up shim can be had from a Yamaha dealer for just a couple bucks, but the cam shaft that it murdered would be cheapest to source used and then have polished if needed.

When you reinstall the valve covers do NOT over torque them! The spec is for 22 INCH lbs... not 22 ft. lbs. Too much and you can warp them and then they never seal right.

No need to drain the oil when pulling the valve covers. Just clean the engine around them so you're not knocking 20 years worth of grit into the engine.

spudz29212MKIII · 05-05-2008, 10:57 AM

Okay guys I have bad news bears. I may have found the issue of over half my problems.

Alright, so got home from school parked the car and did my compression test.( before I ripp anything apart )

Tests are as follow:
Cylinder: PSI:
1 160
2 170/175 (probably cause I cranked it once more than others)
3 160
4 130 (also did wet test came to about 162 PSI)
5 60 (wtf....fuck wet test)
6 170/175 (same as cylinder 2)

Cylinder 4 & 5 readings were shit. I didnt bother doing wet test on 5 it was so low I just got pissed. The high readings are because JDM engine might of had head shaved for install, but IDK (swap done from prev owner). Or just a ton of carbon build.

Results show two adjacent cylinders low as hell, probable cause HG blown. Or my rings are shot. But then again who knows because thats where my loud valve noise is comming from.

But I am taking my car to my bro-in-law house and putting compressed air to those cylinders I guess the "leak down" test. We are going to see where the air is comming out at. Radiator cap, oil cap, etc. To further diagnosis these two cylinders. But ill post back our results.

spudz29212MKIII · 05-06-2008, 01:15 AM

Alright, went over to my bro-in-laws house and did the leak down test. Since the rest of the cylinders were fine I only tested cylinders 4 & 5.

Cylinder 4 seemed to be okay. We could not pin-point escaping air with oild cap off but since the dry test came up 130PSI and wet test 160PSI we did not worry that much.

On to cylinder 5. This one was horrible 60PSI on dry test I knew this one would be the worst. Hooked up air to the cylinder popped the oil cap, and swishoosh tons of air comming out of oil cap. Rings are shit, but I dont really care still drivable. At least until I get some finance up for either re-build or new reman block/engine.

BHG test were inconclusive. Ran the engine at idle with radiator cap off and topped off the coolant. Had some bubbling on and off but not enough to just flat out say BHG.

Also had some excess moisture in exhaust, but still to little to say BHG.

We are thinking about getting a reman'd short block and dropping it in over a weekend or two. I would say its much less of a hassle then ripping apart the motor just to fix some rings. Stupid toyota and thier lies, double rings just fuck up everything.

mkiiisupra · 05-06-2008, 01:50 AM

that sucks man, glad my compression test didnt turn up anything evil like that ;(

Not much of a mechanic but maybe we can meet up, im not too far outside of columbia. Would like to see an engine pulled apart for when i have to do mine lol

spudz29212MKIII · 05-07-2008, 07:28 PM

Im doing some carbon cleaner, got some sea foam in the gas.

Question, its my first turbo and I want to do some carb cleaner. I take it you cant take off piping or it will just stall. And im def not going to spray it in or around the MAF. I read it has to be done in a vacuum line.

If this is so which is the best one to spray in?

supramacist · 05-08-2008, 07:08 PM

Your car has a carberator?

My pipe does but not my car.

Seafoam is nasty stuff and doesn't do as well as it boasts.
Step in the right direction though.

I had a guy ask me once why his shit was'nt working.
He just got done tuning it up and topping off the fluids.

Long story short the turbo is not a fluid reservior.

I'm an n/a. I don't do turbo questions to avoid giving out garbage 411.

spudz29212MKIII · 05-08-2008, 07:40 PM

Yea I hear ya. Sea foam has a nice rep. The only other good rep one I heard is GM's fuel additive, so idk yet.

I have alot of oil in my IC piping and also the EGR recirculating into the intake manifold. So I was hoping throwing some carb cleaner might clear up some oil gunk and carbon gunk that is probably building up in the manifold or throttle body. Also get some junk off the Intake valves.

With some of the rings shot, and the EGR recirculating I was just guessing there was some nasty crap in there. It needs to be sprayed into one of the vacuum lines on the throttle body, just seeing which is the best one.

supramacist · 05-08-2008, 08:26 PM

Dexcron Mercron

ATF.

Try it as a fuel additive. It's far better than sea foam and cost much less.

EDIT: If you aren't using premium. You're only lubing your fi system.

Wich is fine after you burn it out with a tank of premium.

You'll smoke a bit. Some say that the dexcron reduces the smoke more so than
just good ol regular atf.

I personally never thought it made anything smoke bad enough to worry about it.
I have done this in many autos.

05-01-2008, 12:25 AM	#41
spudz29212MKIII 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 69	yea cool...i got 7mgte so i just got the single and the 3000 pipe..but i dont even know if i am going to remove the intake side since its only loudest on exhaust side.. but yea i did my reading so i see whats going on in there...IF i do have to replace something excluding valves...you know a good place for them besides toyota...(i like my left leg still attatched) __________________ Zach

05-05-2008, 10:57 AM	#44
spudz29212MKIII 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 69	Okay guys I have bad news bears. I may have found the issue of over half my problems. Alright, so got home from school parked the car and did my compression test.( before I ripp anything apart ) Tests are as follow: Cylinder: PSI: 1 160 2 170/175 (probably cause I cranked it once more than others) 3 160 4 130 (also did wet test came to about 162 PSI) 5 60 (wtf....fuck wet test) 6 170/175 (same as cylinder 2) Cylinder 4 & 5 readings were shit. I didnt bother doing wet test on 5 it was so low I just got pissed. The high readings are because JDM engine might of had head shaved for install, but IDK (swap done from prev owner). Or just a ton of carbon build. Results show two adjacent cylinders low as hell, probable cause HG blown. Or my rings are shot. But then again who knows because thats where my loud valve noise is comming from. But I am taking my car to my bro-in-law house and putting compressed air to those cylinders I guess the "leak down" test. We are going to see where the air is comming out at. Radiator cap, oil cap, etc. To further diagnosis these two cylinders. But ill post back our results. __________________ Zach

05-06-2008, 01:15 AM	#45
spudz29212MKIII 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 69	Alright, went over to my bro-in-laws house and did the leak down test. Since the rest of the cylinders were fine I only tested cylinders 4 & 5. Cylinder 4 seemed to be okay. We could not pin-point escaping air with oild cap off but since the dry test came up 130PSI and wet test 160PSI we did not worry that much. On to cylinder 5. This one was horrible 60PSI on dry test I knew this one would be the worst. Hooked up air to the cylinder popped the oil cap, and swishoosh tons of air comming out of oil cap. Rings are shit, but I dont really care still drivable. At least until I get some finance up for either re-build or new reman block/engine. BHG test were inconclusive. Ran the engine at idle with radiator cap off and topped off the coolant. Had some bubbling on and off but not enough to just flat out say BHG. Also had some excess moisture in exhaust, but still to little to say BHG. We are thinking about getting a reman'd short block and dropping it in over a weekend or two. I would say its much less of a hassle then ripping apart the motor just to fix some rings. Stupid toyota and thier lies, double rings just fuck up everything. __________________ Zach

05-06-2008, 01:50 AM	#46
mkiiisupra Lexus & 550's Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 570 Blog Entries: 1	that sucks man, glad my compression test didnt turn up anything evil like that ;( Not much of a mechanic but maybe we can meet up, im not too far outside of columbia. Would like to see an engine pulled apart for when i have to do mine lol __________________ 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo A/T ------------------------------------------------ Questions about oil? take a look http://www.supramania.com/aehaas/

05-07-2008, 07:28 PM	#47
spudz29212MKIII 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 69	Im doing some carbon cleaner, got some sea foam in the gas. Question, its my first turbo and I want to do some carb cleaner. I take it you cant take off piping or it will just stall. And im def not going to spray it in or around the MAF. I read it has to be done in a vacuum line. If this is so which is the best one to spray in? __________________ Zach

05-01-2008, 12:28 AM	#42
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	No ideas about where you are at. I'd start calling speed shops and local parts stores and see who it is that they use.

05-01-2008, 12:44 AM	#43
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	I'd just start with the exhaust side. Wait until yo see what's going on before you start looking for sources, a chewed up shim can be had from a Yamaha dealer for just a couple bucks, but the cam shaft that it murdered would be cheapest to source used and then have polished if needed. When you reinstall the valve covers do NOT over torque them! The spec is for 22 INCH lbs... not 22 ft. lbs. Too much and you can warp them and then they never seal right. No need to drain the oil when pulling the valve covers. Just clean the engine around them so you're not knocking 20 years worth of grit into the engine.

05-08-2008, 07:08 PM	#48
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Your car has a carberator? My pipe does but not my car. Seafoam is nasty stuff and doesn't do as well as it boasts. Step in the right direction though. I had a guy ask me once why his shit was'nt working. He just got done tuning it up and topping off the fluids. Long story short the turbo is not a fluid reservior. I'm an n/a. I don't do turbo questions to avoid giving out garbage 411.

05-08-2008, 07:40 PM	#49
spudz29212MKIII 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 69	Yea I hear ya. Sea foam has a nice rep. The only other good rep one I heard is GM's fuel additive, so idk yet. I have alot of oil in my IC piping and also the EGR recirculating into the intake manifold. So I was hoping throwing some carb cleaner might clear up some oil gunk and carbon gunk that is probably building up in the manifold or throttle body. Also get some junk off the Intake valves. With some of the rings shot, and the EGR recirculating I was just guessing there was some nasty crap in there. It needs to be sprayed into one of the vacuum lines on the throttle body, just seeing which is the best one. __________________ Zach

05-08-2008, 08:26 PM	#50
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Dexcron Mercron ATF. Try it as a fuel additive. It's far better than sea foam and cost much less. EDIT: If you aren't using premium. You're only lubing your fi system. Wich is fine after you burn it out with a tank of premium. You'll smoke a bit. Some say that the dexcron reduces the smoke more so than just good ol regular atf. I personally never thought it made anything smoke bad enough to worry about it. I have done this in many autos. Last edited by supramacist; 05-08-2008 at 08:32 PM.