Starting isssues and spark knock Q's - Page 6

paulmicin · 05-21-2008, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spudz29212MKIII

Alright, went over to my bro-in-laws house and did the leak down test. Since the rest of the cylinders were fine I only tested cylinders 4 & 5.

Cylinder 4 seemed to be okay. We could not pin-point escaping air with oild cap off but since the dry test came up 130PSI and wet test 160PSI we did not worry that much.

On to cylinder 5. This one was horrible 60PSI on dry test I knew this one would be the worst. Hooked up air to the cylinder popped the oil cap, and swishoosh tons of air comming out of oil cap. Rings are shit, but I dont really care still drivable. At least until I get some finance up for either re-build or new reman block/engine.

BHG test were inconclusive. Ran the engine at idle with radiator cap off and topped off the coolant. Had some bubbling on and off but not enough to just flat out say BHG.

Also had some excess moisture in exhaust, but still to little to say BHG.

We are thinking about getting a reman'd short block and dropping it in over a weekend or two. I would say its much less of a hassle then ripping apart the motor just to fix some rings. Stupid toyota and thier lies, double rings just fuck up everything.

Hey, just wanted to ask what kind of fitting you used to hook up compressed air to the cylinder.

spudz29212MKIII · 05-21-2008, 02:46 AM

No prob, But pretty simple. I just used the compression testr' hose. What you need to do is popp off the gauge and hook up the air. Now there is a little nozzle in the end to keep air in (like a tire or bicycle stem nozzle). So instead of getting another hose I just got some small tweezers and you basically can just screw it out. I dont actually remember the size of the fittings (i just have a ton laying around) so just play around but I know advance auto parts has the right fitting.

Dont loose the little nozzle, but if you do its the same nozzle as in a tire's stem. (you just might have a pain in the ass fitting it or finding the right size)

blackturbo1 · 05-22-2008, 03:35 PM

Hey Zack, just to put my two cents in;

If you can wiggle the wire and you get started I would suspect a corroded connection at the cam sensor. Unplug the connector at the sensor and check for corrosion and clean as needed. As for the harness, it's easy to trace continuity in the wires with an ohm-meter.

When did you notice the knock? Has it been there since you got the car or is it something new? Is it a hard, heavy knock, light and intermittent, does it occur every cam sequence or crank sequence? Give a little (or a lot)more info, i.e. describe the noise in detail for we cannot hear or see what you hear and see.

As for those who want to call you on the carpet for not turning your own wrenches, thank god you have a job and are a responsible person!

Hope this helps.
C.

supramacist · 05-22-2008, 04:21 PM

Having a job and being a responsible person isn't going to push the car down the road.

Having dilligence, strong work ethic, patience and an a$$ load of tools helps much more

.

A job is par for the course. A pre-requisit if you will. So that doesn't help him any more than anyone else.

How about someone explains how to clean this mess so no one goes using water or carb cleaner. Compressed air will be a must with out an air compressor.

blackturbo1 · 05-23-2008, 03:53 PM

All good points, as I said, just putting in my two cents.

1000 whp? Please describe in detail how you accomplished this.

supramacist · 05-23-2008, 05:36 PM

That's some stuff the forum throws up as standard issue.

You'll see people say things like stock and intake and eventually it'll say aem electronics.

People are always asking about it and I can't get it to change.

spudz29212MKIII · 05-26-2008, 07:37 AM

yea I found out that its the cam sensor connect. Diagnosis would show no signals from it. Then jiggle wires, reset stored codes, start car, then do another diagnosis codes gone. Connector good just the wire attached looks shitty. hoping just a re-wire solve it.

I did not have the knock when I got the car like, 10 months ago. also no egr vac modulator. After i replaced that with a used from ebay maybe a few months later it started.

YouTube - Supra Knock? This is what is sounds like. Only between 2000 rpm and 3000 rpm

supramacist · 05-26-2008, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spudz29212MKIII

yea I found out that its the cam sensor connect. Diagnosis would show no signals from it. Then jiggle wires, reset stored codes, start car, then do another diagnosis codes gone. Connector good just the wire attached looks shitty. hoping just a re-wire solve it.

I did not have the knock when I got the car like, 10 months ago. also no egr vac modulator. After i replaced that with a used from ebay maybe a few months later it started.

YouTube - Supra Knock? This is what is sounds like. Only between 2000 rpm and 3000 rpm

See now you're getting the puzzle pieces you need.
For every 1 thing you fix on these cars.
2 more things go wrong.

supramacist · 05-26-2008, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spudz29212MKIII

yea I found out that its the cam sensor connect. Diagnosis would show no signals from it. Then jiggle wires, reset stored codes, start car, then do another diagnosis codes gone. Connector good just the wire attached looks shitty. hoping just a re-wire solve it.

I did not have the knock when I got the car like, 10 months ago. also no egr vac modulator. After i replaced that with a used from ebay maybe a few months later it started.

YouTube - Supra Knock? This is what is sounds like. Only between 2000 rpm and 3000 rpm

Sounds like you are getting close to the heart of the matter spudz.
For every 1 thing you fix.
2 more are surely to break.

The only way I can get a leg up on my car is to work 3 days straight on it with no rest.

Then when I do rest and come back, the supra gremlins had made well oiled use of their time.

spudz29212MKIII · 05-27-2008, 12:14 AM

thats what im afraid of. Especially since its the cam position sensor. If that thing messes up it can cause a whole heep of problems if not carful.

05-21-2008, 02:46 AM	#52
spudz29212MKIII 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 69	No prob, But pretty simple. I just used the compression testr' hose. What you need to do is popp off the gauge and hook up the air. Now there is a little nozzle in the end to keep air in (like a tire or bicycle stem nozzle). So instead of getting another hose I just got some small tweezers and you basically can just screw it out. I dont actually remember the size of the fittings (i just have a ton laying around) so just play around but I know advance auto parts has the right fitting. Dont loose the little nozzle, but if you do its the same nozzle as in a tire's stem. (you just might have a pain in the ass fitting it or finding the right size) __________________ Zach

05-22-2008, 03:35 PM	#53
blackturbo1 Stock Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: New Orleans, La Posts: 6	no start and knock problems Hey Zack, just to put my two cents in; If you can wiggle the wire and you get started I would suspect a corroded connection at the cam sensor. Unplug the connector at the sensor and check for corrosion and clean as needed. As for the harness, it's easy to trace continuity in the wires with an ohm-meter. When did you notice the knock? Has it been there since you got the car or is it something new? Is it a hard, heavy knock, light and intermittent, does it occur every cam sequence or crank sequence? Give a little (or a lot)more info, i.e. describe the noise in detail for we cannot hear or see what you hear and see. As for those who want to call you on the carpet for not turning your own wrenches, thank god you have a job and are a responsible person! Hope this helps. C.

05-22-2008, 04:21 PM	#54
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Having a job and being a responsible person isn't going to push the car down the road. Having dilligence, strong work ethic, patience and an a$$ load of tools helps much more . A job is par for the course. A pre-requisit if you will. So that doesn't help him any more than anyone else. How about someone explains how to clean this mess so no one goes using water or carb cleaner. Compressed air will be a must with out an air compressor. Last edited by supramacist; 05-23-2008 at 05:34 PM.

05-23-2008, 03:53 PM	#55
blackturbo1 Stock Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: New Orleans, La Posts: 6	Start and knock problem All good points, as I said, just putting in my two cents. 1000 whp? Please describe in detail how you accomplished this.

05-26-2008, 07:37 AM	#57
spudz29212MKIII 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 69	yea I found out that its the cam sensor connect. Diagnosis would show no signals from it. Then jiggle wires, reset stored codes, start car, then do another diagnosis codes gone. Connector good just the wire attached looks shitty. hoping just a re-wire solve it. I did not have the knock when I got the car like, 10 months ago. also no egr vac modulator. After i replaced that with a used from ebay maybe a few months later it started. YouTube - Supra Knock? This is what is sounds like. Only between 2000 rpm and 3000 rpm __________________ Zach

05-23-2008, 05:36 PM	#56
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	That's some stuff the forum throws up as standard issue. You'll see people say things like stock and intake and eventually it'll say aem electronics. People are always asking about it and I can't get it to change.

05-27-2008, 12:14 AM	#60
spudz29212MKIII 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 69	thats what im afraid of. Especially since its the cam position sensor. If that thing messes up it can cause a whole heep of problems if not carful. __________________ Zach