Hello, It's me again needing assistance with the knock sensor. I am still trying to find it in the engine compartment. Is it under the alternator on the block behind the intake or on the side of the turbo? Will it be visible from the top of the car or better from the bottom? I also would like to know if I don't replace the sensor and keep driving the car will I damage the engine in any way? I drieve it everyday and have not noticed any difference in the way the car drives.
Thank you

I know on the N/A's t is on the drivers side of the engine block , i don't know if its the sma ein the turbo models.

knock sensor s are located under the intake .. they are green .. the are directly in the side of the block . you might be able to put your hand on one with the intake still on .. the rear sensor is close to the starter

Thank you, I will try and find it today. I aslo would like to know if I don't change or fix it am I doing any damage to the engine. The guy I bought it form had a used Nisson 7MGTE engine with 40,000 on it. He switched out all the parts, re did the turbo, etc and it runs great.I dont do any racing or fast starts so I was wondering if I don't fix the knock sensor is that a big deal?

aren't you the guy that said you put some fluid in the gas that changed the octane to 100 ? i find this hard to believe for one and for two what ever you or this guy put into the gas could have caused your knock problem

O.K. yes I added an additive that said it increases the octane by 9. I use premium at 91 octane and when I added the additivie according to the bottle added 9 so that put my ocatne at 100 91+9=100.
The engine light came on right after I added the additive and when I checked it the knock sensor code 52 started.
The car runs real good and I need to know if I don't fix this code will I do any damage to the engine?I thought the higher the octane the better the car would run.
I found the sensor on the block by the intake and unplugged it. After runnig the car for a short period the engine light came back on giving me the same code. Does that mean the rear knock sensor is bad or is there a short somewhere.

if you read the fine print on the label of the octane booster you will find that it does not add a straight 9 clicks of octane
it adds a faction of a percent to something or other i forget exactly .
check the timing
check the plugs /gap
knock is bad
http://www.stanford.edu/~bmoses/knock.html


does it sound like it's knocking ? or pinging ?
i mean is the sensor doing it's job or giving you false positives

The guy I bought the car from changed the timing belt and spark plugs. He only drove it a few hundred miles before I bought it. There is no knocking or pinging at all. Should I keep driving the car or have thhis probelm fixed?
Thank you for your assistance

i would check the timing for sure now

Sorry if I seem confused. Why should I check the timing. Can the timing really be off? The car runs great with no problems except for the engine light and the code. IS it an easy thing to check? and if so could you please give me some directions.
Thanks again for your insight.

A.you have no idea where this guy set the timing at
B. it might be avanced too far
C. it's easier to check the timing than pull the knock sensor

you need a timing light maybe 25 bucks

you attach the red line to the postive on the battery you attach the black line to the negative on the battery or a proper ground then you attach the clip onto spark plug #1 ...#1 is closest to the radiator
you are supposed to short out the ecu as if checking for codes
and you look at the main pulley with blinking light pointed at the main pulley (while the engine is running)
10 degrees off TDC is recommend spec .

other than that i guess you could replace the knock SENORS

i would exhaust all other options 1st
what is the exact error code you are getting
do you have a shop manual ? have you looked at the manuals online ?

Thank you. The guy I bought the car form was real anal about it. In April 03 he put in a used Nippon engine with 40, 000. When he put that in he changed everyting out. He then changed the timing belt again before he sold it (I don't know why). He sold it because he bought a new truck. I have the receipts for all the work he did in it.

When I had it in the shop when the engine light came on I asked them to give it a complet check. The only thing they were coming up with was the code 52 which according to the Haynes manual is the knock sensor.

The car runs great and doesn't have any noises. The only thing is the engine light is on. I checked the knock sensor on the engine but haven't checked the one by the starter. That one is a little hard to get to. I have no other problems with the car.

open or short circut in the knock sensor signal

knock sensor circut
knock sensor
ecu

i keep thinking the one on the front is easier to get at than the one in the back , i just remembered that i yanked out my a/c system including compressor .
with that gone it's easy to get at the front knock sensor
probably easier from below

I thank you for all your information it's nice to have somone to discuss this with. Just one more question. If it's the knock sensor does it really hurt the car to keep driving it or does it really need to be replaced?

I already checked the one located on the top of the engine so i think it's the one by the starter. It's hard to get to.

i do not know for sure
but if you say the car is running great with no signs of a knock
i would guess that the sensor is bad or the connection is not good or a cracked wire causing the error code and drive it .

when i put my engine back together one time i didn't get a good connection on the one next to the starter and got the same code . i was freaked for sure but i resolved it quick because i knew that one was a mother to re connect.
if you get it off it's going to be difficult to get it back on .......might be easier to pull the starter