Prop/Drive Shaft, brake question - Page 2

supradaddy0803 · 05-30-2008, 04:06 PM

Man do like I did and buy a one peice one they are so much easier to put in and take out. Unless you dont have a turbo then you may have a hard time finding one for a W58 and not the R154 like most of them are made for. As for your brakes dragging I would take a look at how everything is set on the rotors themselves. See if when the wheels are in the air if the rotors turn smooth or if they make the grinding noise. You may also need to check your wheel bearings, if they have play in them then it may be grinding when you have weight on them. Mine were like that and it sucks doing them as well but well worht the effort.

Chambers · 05-31-2008, 02:47 AM

Few days ago the center carrier bearing finally blew in my car, luckily I was only 1/4 mile from home, it was knocking away. lol. I dropped the drive shafts and took it to a local welding shop to get a one piece made. They did a exceptional job on it, the machine work and the welds were awesome! In the end they only charged me $200. I just took it for a spin and I can say it felt like a lot more power was being put to the ground, but it could also just be that I was driving my slow 84 Ranger for the past week, lol. Either way, I'm very happy with the one piece.

supramacist · 05-31-2008, 01:12 PM

Awesome deal they cut you on that shaft.
If you have to take the shaft...., I'd say you took it like a man

.

200$ is less than toyota wants for a new carrier bearing.

spudz29212MKIII · 05-31-2008, 07:15 PM

thats what im doing getting a one peice lightweight shaft. gotta get some supports thou dont want to rip out yoke with large ass torque.

Wheel bearings are fine, the brakes are just binding not releasing completely maybe nasty fluid in the lines, boiled over, or idiot put powersteering in the res. before i bought it.

Anyways all rubber in system swelled up and seals went to shit.

New Master Cylinder, new rotors, new pads, new calipers, and new lines that im putting in today. With each replacement the binding became less and less so im pretty sure its the lines. After a good gravity bleed then a two man bleed Im good to go

05-30-2008, 04:06 PM	#11
supradaddy0803 12psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: Athens, TX Posts: 308	Man do like I did and buy a one peice one they are so much easier to put in and take out. Unless you dont have a turbo then you may have a hard time finding one for a W58 and not the R154 like most of them are made for. As for your brakes dragging I would take a look at how everything is set on the rotors themselves. See if when the wheels are in the air if the rotors turn smooth or if they make the grinding noise. You may also need to check your wheel bearings, if they have play in them then it may be grinding when you have weight on them. Mine were like that and it sucks doing them as well but well worht the effort. __________________ 1987 supra NA 5 speed 1JZGTE swap Tokico Illumina 2 and Eibach springs Tokico pillow blocks Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bar HKS super dragger cat-back exhaust plus test pipe Greddy Profec B spec 2 boost controller HKS type 1 turbo timer Supra sport solid steel drive shaft Walboro 255 fuel pump JZA70 Front end mod 18" Volk Racing AV3 18x8.5 front 18x9.5 rear

05-31-2008, 02:47 AM	#12
Chambers walbro fp Join Date: May 2007 Location: USA - Harford County, Maryland Posts: 481	Few days ago the center carrier bearing finally blew in my car, luckily I was only 1/4 mile from home, it was knocking away. lol. I dropped the drive shafts and took it to a local welding shop to get a one piece made. They did a exceptional job on it, the machine work and the welds were awesome! In the end they only charged me $200. I just took it for a spin and I can say it felt like a lot more power was being put to the ground, but it could also just be that I was driving my slow 84 Ranger for the past week, lol. Either way, I'm very happy with the one piece. __________________ Whats in the garage, well.... in the yard. 1986.5 Toyota Supra - NA - 5 spd 1986 Ford Ranger Lowrider - 5 spd 1984 Ford Ranger XLT - 7" Lift - 4X4 - Auto "Stuck in the 80's" Last edited by Chambers; 05-31-2008 at 02:49 AM.

05-31-2008, 07:15 PM	#14
spudz29212MKIII 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 69	thats what im doing getting a one peice lightweight shaft. gotta get some supports thou dont want to rip out yoke with large ass torque. Wheel bearings are fine, the brakes are just binding not releasing completely maybe nasty fluid in the lines, boiled over, or idiot put powersteering in the res. before i bought it. Anyways all rubber in system swelled up and seals went to shit. New Master Cylinder, new rotors, new pads, new calipers, and new lines that im putting in today. With each replacement the binding became less and less so im pretty sure its the lines. After a good gravity bleed then a two man bleed Im good to go __________________ Zach

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05-31-2008, 01:12 PM	#13
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Awesome deal they cut you on that shaft. If you have to take the shaft...., I'd say you took it like a man . 200$ is less than toyota wants for a new carrier bearing.