Prop/Drive Shaft, brake question

[spudz29212MKIII]

I replaced front rotors and pads, little bubbles in the lines but we bled it. When I am coast'n down a hill in idle I can still hear the front brakes drag at a certain point. And it gets worst when going around a curve.

Ya'll think air might still be in the lines, or could I have a wheel bearing bad? Up on the lift the tires did not move barely at all when you move top, bottom back to forth.

Next inquire;

Well when we had the car up on the lift I was just checking around and came upon the propeller shaft. (note; no weight on any tires or suspension) When I put my hands on either side of the center bearing I could lift the shaft up and down like a 1/2 in to an inch.

Is that normal? I thought the shaft should not move at all if its bolted to axel and tranny (even if its a two piece). New center bearing?

Also, info why I think its bad; car still has little vibration on highway speeds, and some times a really rough shift when tranny engages like a big clunk sound. Almost like the shaft is jumping up at the bearing. The support braket looks like it has taken some twisting stress.

Thanks guys

[supramacist]

Drive shaft slap?

Maybe a carrier bearing.

[spudz29212MKIII]

yea pretty much a body slap..

whats a carrier bearing? didnt see it in the TSRM

[supramacist]

The carrier bearing is the main drive shaft bearing.

It sounds like play in your driveshaft.

[spudz29212MKIII]

yea def plays too much. Why is the shaft in two pieces anyways?

Which is a better idea, replace the bearing or just get a new complete shaft?

Any ideas on the brakes?

[supramacist]

Brakes: toyota oem rebuild kits for the front and back via your dealership.

Drivetrain: Niether one of those are inexpensive to replace dude.

Carrier bearings are priced sky high. A drive shaft could cost you a grand.
U-joints. I like to use spicer, but I haven't changed mine out yet either.

The good news is that with ramps and jack stands you can do all of the work yourself. Easily within a weekend.

I'm not totally sure what you have but you sound like this could be it and it just happens in autos such as vans and 3/4 ton trucks from the drive train hauling that weight. In your case it's probably there from years of negligence.

If I had to venture a guess. I would say the carrier bearing is close to $250/$300. And the other 2 u joints are going to run anywhere from $75 / $125.

If you have never ''wrestled'' u-joints before. You had better study up.
They can be a real pita unless someone knows the trick.

I have long since forgotten it, without some hands on.

I hope this helps, man.

[mrnickleye]

I pulled my drivshaft out and took it to the driveline shop. They cut the center bearing support bracket and replaced the bearing, then welded it back up. Replaced all 3 u-joints, and then balanced the whole thing. And I'm in Calif where everything is expensive.

[supramacist]

I could never get it done for that rate here.
It's not a bad gig except for those pesky u-joints.

[spudz29212MKIII]

cool thanks guys. I guess im going to start calling around for some prices. cause if its that challenging ill rip it out and take it to someone like mr. nickleye did. ive never dealt with shaft problems

Prices down here I have noticed are much better than most places. SC is really cheap state, HAHA I havent looked lately but we had the lowest tax, and minimum wage in the country last I saw like a year ago.

[spudz29212MKIII]

SOOO my car's been parked for a few days and we have done extensive troubleshooting on the brakes. After playing around for a bit, bleeding, pumping brakes, opening lines etc. etc. The brakes pretty much locked up.

After more troubleshooting, we opened up the caliper bleeder valve. Nothing but like 2 drops came out and did not relieve pressure on the pads.

Well its getting start of summer heat here in SC and its hot as hell. Well our conclusion is calipers 21 years old and the piston seals have had enough. Calipers kept binding. Orderd some new calipers, but still waiting on one this should solve the brake issue.( I had to use a hellof alot of force with a c-clamp just to get the pistons to return back to get old calipers off. At a certain point the pressure finally forced em in, huge slush noise and calipers went all the way back. )

But this would be a good idea if your working on your brakes. Two remand calipers 43 bucks with 50.00 core charge. Also check you lines for excessive twisting or cracking. This was the case for passenger side for me.

PS Do not attempt to bleed your brakes yourself Especially if you have ABS. It is very hard and you could let even more air into system.( Take it to a professional, trapped air in the ABS you would not even know, and very dangerous. )

Or you can choose to do it yourself but have fun. Grab yourself 2 giant bottles of brake fluid, pack of cigs, and case of beer. Then you can have fun watching paint dry as you do a gravity bleed from the caliper bleeder valve.