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#1 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 69
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I replaced front rotors and pads, little bubbles in the lines but we bled it. When I am coast'n down a hill in idle I can still hear the front brakes drag at a certain point. And it gets worst when going around a curve.
Ya'll think air might still be in the lines, or could I have a wheel bearing bad? Up on the lift the tires did not move barely at all when you move top, bottom back to forth. Next inquire; Well when we had the car up on the lift I was just checking around and came upon the propeller shaft. (note; no weight on any tires or suspension) When I put my hands on either side of the center bearing I could lift the shaft up and down like a 1/2 in to an inch. Is that normal? I thought the shaft should not move at all if its bolted to axel and tranny (even if its a two piece). New center bearing? Also, info why I think its bad; car still has little vibration on highway speeds, and some times a really rough shift when tranny engages like a big clunk sound. Almost like the shaft is jumping up at the bearing. The support braket looks like it has taken some twisting stress. Thanks guys
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Zach |
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#2 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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Drive shaft slap?
Maybe a carrier bearing. |
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#3 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 69
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yea pretty much a body slap..
whats a carrier bearing? didnt see it in the TSRM
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Zach |
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#4 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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The carrier bearing is the main drive shaft bearing.
It sounds like play in your driveshaft. |
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#5 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 69
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yea def plays too much. Why is the shaft in two pieces anyways?
Which is a better idea, replace the bearing or just get a new complete shaft? Any ideas on the brakes?
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Zach |
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#6 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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Brakes: toyota oem rebuild kits for the front and back via your dealership.
Drivetrain: Niether one of those are inexpensive to replace dude. Carrier bearings are priced sky high. A drive shaft could cost you a grand. U-joints. I like to use spicer, but I haven't changed mine out yet either. The good news is that with ramps and jack stands you can do all of the work yourself. Easily within a weekend. I'm not totally sure what you have but you sound like this could be it and it just happens in autos such as vans and 3/4 ton trucks from the drive train hauling that weight. In your case it's probably there from years of negligence. If I had to venture a guess. I would say the carrier bearing is close to $250/$300. And the other 2 u joints are going to run anywhere from $75 / $125. If you have never ''wrestled'' u-joints before. You had better study up. They can be a real pita unless someone knows the trick. I have long since forgotten it, without some hands on. I hope this helps, man. Last edited by supramacist; 05-21-2008 at 06:51 AM. |
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