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Old 05-22-2008, 02:24 AM   #1
Chambers
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Question 7M-GTE - "Light" Re-Build Question

Hi all, I was thinking of buying a 7M-GTE. If I go ahead and buy it I won't be looking for a lot of horse power, just a step up from a NA.

My question is, what should I look into for a "light" re-build, besides the obvious head gasket and machine work, assuming everything checks out such as compression, valve shim clearances, and theres no sign of incorrect wear on any components in the bottom end. Thanks.
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:27 AM   #2
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Since you aren't shooting for major hp gains but seemingly reliability.
I may mention a 2jzge swap.
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:53 AM   #3
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I had seriously considered that and searched into it a little but I'm having the hardest time finding any place online that sells a 2JZ-GE with a computer, harness, and transmission.

If I had to I could re-wire a harness or make a new one but I would rather stay way from that. The other problem is since my car is a pre-89 the front sub frame cross members and engine mounts are slightly diffrent, I know BIC makes engine mounts for a 2JZ swap in a pre-89 but I don't know about the cross member.

It seems to me that staying NA with a 2JZ would be a better route for simplicity reasons, less stuff making power = less stuff to break.

By the way, I'm liking the new avatar supramacist!
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Old 05-22-2008, 03:41 AM   #4
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The way I understand it is the w58 will work with the 2jzge.
If you have an r series trannt, you only need a bellhousing.

I hear the harness's are very close you're stock should need minimal modification.

You would also need jza80 mounting brackets an an 89+ crossmember.
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Old 05-22-2008, 01:33 PM   #5
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I found some mounting brackets from BIC performance that would allow the 2JZ swap with out changing the cross member.

Thats cool that the W58 will work, I didn't think it would work. Thanks.
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Old 05-22-2008, 04:09 PM   #6
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You don't think the engine could un-torque itself without a cross member?

I'm asking. I don't know. Some say it's possible without the cross member and have mentioned specifically the bic brackets.

I have read this enough that there must be some truth to it.
It's to widely spread. It's like someone saying Jimmy Page is a practicing occultist.
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:57 PM   #7
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Hmm... I see what you are saying. hehehe

I guess I will stay 7M then, I prefer the grunt of a 7M to the wirr of a JZ anyway, lol.

Swapping a engine in is one thing, but taking the chance that it would backfire on me from something like that is not worth it without swapping the cross member, the only problem is, I wouldn't swap the cross members without replacing every bushing I came across, and those bushings are up in price, so a cross member swap isn't in my direct future.

Back to the original topic, I'm thinking of replacing; as many gaskets as I can get to, head gasket, and new vac lines. Can you think of anything else?
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1986 Ford Ranger Lowrider - 5 spd
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Old 05-23-2008, 12:11 AM   #8
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Vac hoses and Coolant hoses. And torque those suckers tight.

Now's a good time to do an ac delete.

I'd replace the starter just so I knew I wouldn't be trying to yank it to inspect it.

T-stat housing gasket.

EDIT: Injector grommets.

Last edited by supramacist; 05-23-2008 at 12:14 AM.
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Old 05-23-2008, 02:29 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supramacist View Post
Vac hoses and Coolant hoses. And torque those suckers tight.

Now's a good time to do an ac delete.

I'd replace the starter just so I knew I wouldn't be trying to yank it to inspect it.

T-stat housing gasket.

EDIT: Injector grommets.
You and your ac/heater core delete, lol. Yea the stuff is heavy but they suit me for my uses of the car.

I forgot about the injector grommets!! Thanks!
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1986.5 Toyota Supra - NA - 5 spd
1986 Ford Ranger Lowrider - 5 spd
1984 Ford Ranger XLT - 7" Lift - 4X4 - Auto
"Stuck in the 80's"
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