Replace CoilPack, ECU, and Fuel Pump
 

1987 Turbo Manual Tranny

I am probbably going to buy a supra which would need all these parts replaced. My question is how would I go about doing each of these things. I have little mechanical expierience however if given a general idea of how to do something I should not have an issue.

The coilpack is no big deal at all. It's right on top of the engine underneath the coil-pack cover and right in front of your 3000 pipe. Just a couple of nuts to remove, one plug, and the plug wires. Hook the new pack up as you remove the plug wires from the other to make it easier to know they're hooked up correctly. And be careful with the coilpack cover. It's likely to be very brittle from the heat of the engine, and will crack and/or break without much provocation. Even better, they're somewhat difficult to find in good condition if yours is broken or gets broken.

Your ECU is hiding in your glovebox alcove. Remove the glovebox (just a few screws holding it in) and the ECU is mounted at the top of the alcove with 3 or 4 screws and connected by a few plugs. It's a flat silver metal box about 1" thick and 6" or so square. Be careful not to break the clips on the plugs when pulling them out of the ECU. And make sure whatever ECU you're replacing it with has the same ID code on the label.

The fuel pump is the worst, though it's not nearly as bad as some work. Open your fuel cap and remove the 4 screws holding the assembly in place. Go into your hatch and under the carpet is a round cover over to the right side. Remove it and disconnect the plugs there. Then crawl underneath and remove the drain plug in the bottom left corner of your tank, give it a chance to drain out good. Then you gotta get the car way up off the ground on jack stands, and disconnect the fuel lines. One can be a complete PITA to get loose, but the others are just compression clamps, easy to remove with a pair of pliers. Once that's done you place a jack or other kind of support under the tank, take off the nuts holding the tank straps in place and ease the straps back. When they're out of the way you ease the tank down and the filler tube out of the quarterpanel opening. Then you just remove the screws holding the primary feed line cap off, and gently remove the pump bracket and pump. I'd replace the gasket under the cap, it's a few bucks from Toyota. Remove the old pump, reconnect (or rewire according to what kind of pump you're getting), strap it to the bracket, and remount it. I'd take the time to clean the garbage out of your tank while it's down too. Then just hook everything back up in reverse. It's not too bad.

Thanks for the reply... I think this supra will be my first car :)

I plan to repair those three issues. I also will be retorquing the head to 72 instead of around 50.

Will also be cleaining the interior (racing seats, steering wheel etc.) and adding a turbo timer

Are there any other maitenances I should look into doing to keep the car running?

http://images.craigslist.org/0115030...20fd008df3.jpghttp://images.craigslist.org/0101050...d60400d521.jpg
http://images.craigslist.org/0115080...787400578c.jpghttp://images.craigslist.org/0115050...33b1004d36.jpg

Also... do these things breaking (ECU, FUEL PUMP, COILPACK) hint at a larger problem? once replaced is it expected they will break again?

A Retorque head wont last that long.

The only problem I can see is bad wiring.

So don't retorque it?

The headgasket has been replaced with a metal one, and set to factory torque settings, (like 50) they should be at 70ish according to:

Changing Headgasket On 87 Supra Turbo
"Torque the head bolts down to 72 ft/lb. YES! This is what causes BHGs in the first place. The factory torque setting for the head bolts is TOO LOW! They specify 54 ft/lb. if you torque down to this level, your new head gasket will last all of 6 months then you will be back to square one.

Torque it down to 72 and you will never have any more problems."



and for bad wiring... what are some things to look for, or replace to prevent future problems?

If you know for sure its a metal one and the head and bottom block was machine correctly.

Then I guess re-torquing it would be fine.

Thanks... I hope to keep the supra running for a long time so every little bit helps :)