upgrade advice

ddmcse · 07-03-2008, 01:40 AM

all 3 gauges
but i guess you could lose the exhaust temp for now
it used to be thought that you needed the fuel line work at the same time but you don't your pressure should be fine for now and add it later
what is the condition of the "stock" engine you have there ?
you might have issues if you start boosting the hell out of stock, with what 100k miles on it ?

i'm just guessing here .

Chambers · 07-03-2008, 03:33 AM

Well if you are getting a Lexus AFM I would suggest you get the 550cc injectors, even without a pressure regulator, It's better than your engine running lean.

supramacist · 07-03-2008, 03:59 AM

The afm and injector mods kind of go hand in hand.
I would skip those unless maf-pro is on your list as well.

You can't just throw more air into the mix without upping the fuel along with it. Doing all of this with a walbro fuel pump may compensate without a fuel pressure regulator, especially since you're a turbo. As my walbro covers the arse end with that black soot.

robertsws · 07-03-2008, 06:19 PM

my engine has roughly 94.000 miles on it and is in great shape. my compression is between 145 and 153 through the six cylinders. The book only calls for 143. I plan to do a MHG eventually but not at this time since my compression is so good. for now i'm just going to torque down the head to 75 ft lbs. a MHG with ARP studs is deffinatley on the horizon though. maybe six months from now. Below is my complete upgrade list set up in stages.

Stage 1

MHG – $119 (suprastore.com)
ARP STUDS – $128 (suprastore.com)
APEXI POWER INTAKE - $112 (suprastore.com)
BIC DDP W/RE-ROUTED WASTEGATE – $437 (bicperformance.com)
MCCORD POWERPLATE (W/ELECTRIC CUT-OUT) – $140 (mccordcg.com)
HKS SPORT EXHAUST - $309 (raceinspired.com)
WALBRO 255LPH FUEL PUMP – $90*
Drill out the J-tube on the return side of the fuel system. It's bolted to the block on the driver's side, under the intake manifold. (or just bypass it with some rubber fuel line)
AEROMOTIVE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR - $110*
RC ENGINEERING 550CC INJECTORS - $535 (suprastore.com)
LEXUS AFM – $110*
OBX UNDERDRIVE CRANK PULLEY - $80*
OBX CAM GEAR - $185*
ALUMINUM DRIVESHAFT - $380 (suprastore.com)
JDM FRONT UPPER STRUT BAR - $57*
JDM REAR UPPER STRUT BAR - $57*

Stage 2

90MM THROTTLE BODY - $155*
HPS 4-PLY SILICONE TURBO INLET - $180*
UPGRADED INTERCOOLER - ?
TURBO TIMER - $89 (suprastore.com)
BOOST CONTROLLER – $127*
BOOST GAUGE – $160 (fazeguage.com)
AIR/FUEL GAUGE - $50 (fazeguage.com)**
EGT GAUGE – $160 (fazeguage.com)
CX RACING ALUMINUM RADIATOR - $219*
FLEX-A-LITE DUAL ELECTRIC FANS – $269 (suprastore.com)

Stage 3

CARBON FIBER HOOD – $280*
CARBON FIBER TARGA TOP W/LINER – $405*
RIMS - ?
BLACK LEATHER SEATS - $1600
CLEAR BUMBER & MARKER LIGHTS – $80*
Z-FENDERS – $450*
BODY KIT - $660*
HEADLIGHT VENTS - $99*
PAINT JOB – ?

Upon Convenience

FIDANZA FLYWHEEL - $288*
UPGRADED CLUTCH - $253-$428*

toneloc87 2 · 07-03-2008, 09:26 PM

the j tube you can just get a block off plate

mkiiisupra · 07-04-2008, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robertsws

OBX UNDERDRIVE CRANK PULLEY - $80*
OBX CAM GEAR - $185*

The underdrive pulley has been known to be very bad for our engines. Do some more research on it before you put it on

Dont know if i remember right but our crank pulley helps reduce vibrations and the underdrive pulley doesnt.

Cam gears are okay though

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chambers

I would stay away from a lightweight under drive pulley unless your crank has been balanced for it. Without a dampener on it you will destroy your bearings and fry your engine.

robertsws · 07-04-2008, 03:39 PM

thanks mkiiisupra

i read that post from chambers too and it got me rethinking the underdrive pulley. i've decide that mod is not worth the risk. i appreciate the post though.

shiftysupra · 07-04-2008, 09:25 PM

STAY AWAY from the underdrive pulley. If you are only using it as a race or drag car then go for it. But then you might as well remove the A/C, P/S as well. Our stock ones have a damper built in and it will destroy your engine with vibrations as Chambers stated. You can buy an underdrive pulley that has a damper built in but I believe it's around 900 bucks. I will let you know if I find it. You would not gain any significant power from it, maybe only up to 8hp anyways. They always promote more power than usual because they go with the max power than has even been made from them and in most cases was not on the car your buying it for. Go with a aluminum flywheel.... it takes about 40HP to drive the stock flywheel and with an aluminum one under 15HP. Also go with headers, significant gains can be made from racing headers. I made racing headers and exhaust system myself and have Huge gain! you can hear the difference and really feel it. Have yet to dyno it, but will post pics and the specs once I get the time

07-03-2008, 01:40 AM	#1
ddmcse 500whp yet? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT U.S.A. Posts: 966	all 3 gauges but i guess you could lose the exhaust temp for now it used to be thought that you needed the fuel line work at the same time but you don't your pressure should be fine for now and add it later what is the condition of the "stock" engine you have there ? you might have issues if you start boosting the hell out of stock, with what 100k miles on it ? i'm just guessing here . __________________ 300+ RW HP Dyno run, jdm,mod turbo,3"exh,electfan,greddyboost Blown HeadGasket info My Supra KiXGaS

07-03-2008, 03:33 AM	#2
Chambers walbro fp Join Date: May 2007 Location: USA - Harford County, Maryland Posts: 481	Well if you are getting a Lexus AFM I would suggest you get the 550cc injectors, even without a pressure regulator, It's better than your engine running lean. __________________ Whats in the garage, well.... in the yard. 1986.5 Toyota Supra - NA - 5 spd 1986 Ford Ranger Lowrider - 5 spd 1984 Ford Ranger XLT - 7" Lift - 4X4 - Auto "Stuck in the 80's"

07-03-2008, 06:19 PM	#4
robertsws 3" Exhaust Join Date: May 2008 Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland Posts: 63	my engine has roughly 94.000 miles on it and is in great shape. my compression is between 145 and 153 through the six cylinders. The book only calls for 143. I plan to do a MHG eventually but not at this time since my compression is so good. for now i'm just going to torque down the head to 75 ft lbs. a MHG with ARP studs is deffinatley on the horizon though. maybe six months from now. Below is my complete upgrade list set up in stages. Stage 1 MHG – $119 (suprastore.com) ARP STUDS – $128 (suprastore.com) APEXI POWER INTAKE - $112 (suprastore.com) BIC DDP W/RE-ROUTED WASTEGATE – $437 (bicperformance.com) MCCORD POWERPLATE (W/ELECTRIC CUT-OUT) – $140 (mccordcg.com) HKS SPORT EXHAUST - $309 (raceinspired.com) WALBRO 255LPH FUEL PUMP – $90* Drill out the J-tube on the return side of the fuel system. It's bolted to the block on the driver's side, under the intake manifold. (or just bypass it with some rubber fuel line) AEROMOTIVE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR - $110* RC ENGINEERING 550CC INJECTORS - $535 (suprastore.com) LEXUS AFM – $110* OBX UNDERDRIVE CRANK PULLEY - $80* OBX CAM GEAR - $185* ALUMINUM DRIVESHAFT - $380 (suprastore.com) JDM FRONT UPPER STRUT BAR - $57* JDM REAR UPPER STRUT BAR - $57* Stage 2 90MM THROTTLE BODY - $155* HPS 4-PLY SILICONE TURBO INLET - $180* UPGRADED INTERCOOLER - ? TURBO TIMER - $89 (suprastore.com) BOOST CONTROLLER – $127* BOOST GAUGE – $160 (fazeguage.com) AIR/FUEL GAUGE - $50 (fazeguage.com)** EGT GAUGE – $160 (fazeguage.com) CX RACING ALUMINUM RADIATOR - $219* FLEX-A-LITE DUAL ELECTRIC FANS – $269 (suprastore.com) Stage 3 CARBON FIBER HOOD – $280* CARBON FIBER TARGA TOP W/LINER – $405* RIMS - ? BLACK LEATHER SEATS - $1600 CLEAR BUMBER & MARKER LIGHTS – $80* Z-FENDERS – $450* BODY KIT - $660* HEADLIGHT VENTS - $99* PAINT JOB – ? Upon Convenience FIDANZA FLYWHEEL - $288* UPGRADED CLUTCH - $253-$428* __________________ 1991 Supra - Turbo - 5spd 60-1 upgraded turbo Lexus AFM 3" exhaust, 4" tip SAFC 2 550cc injectors (2 sets, venom direct fit, RC engineering) 2.5" intercooler and piping Aluminum radiator w/dual electric fans ARP bolts w/MHG Full-auto turbo timer Fidanza Flywheel & Stage 2 Clutch spark plugs and wires. power steering pump cold temp start switch engine top end rebuilt transmission opened up and inspected at a tranny shop when the flywheel and clutch installed last week.

07-04-2008, 03:39 PM	#7
robertsws 3" Exhaust Join Date: May 2008 Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland Posts: 63	thanks mkiiisupra i read that post from chambers too and it got me rethinking the underdrive pulley. i've decide that mod is not worth the risk. i appreciate the post though. __________________ 1991 Supra - Turbo - 5spd 60-1 upgraded turbo Lexus AFM 3" exhaust, 4" tip SAFC 2 550cc injectors (2 sets, venom direct fit, RC engineering) 2.5" intercooler and piping Aluminum radiator w/dual electric fans ARP bolts w/MHG Full-auto turbo timer Fidanza Flywheel & Stage 2 Clutch spark plugs and wires. power steering pump cold temp start switch engine top end rebuilt transmission opened up and inspected at a tranny shop when the flywheel and clutch installed last week.

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07-03-2008, 03:59 AM	#3
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	The afm and injector mods kind of go hand in hand. I would skip those unless maf-pro is on your list as well. You can't just throw more air into the mix without upping the fuel along with it. Doing all of this with a walbro fuel pump may compensate without a fuel pressure regulator, especially since you're a turbo. As my walbro covers the arse end with that black soot.

07-03-2008, 09:26 PM	#5
toneloc87 2 3" Exhaust Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Chicago Posts: 62	the j tube you can just get a block off plate

07-04-2008, 09:25 PM	#8
shiftysupra 3" Exhaust Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Arizona Posts: 96	STAY AWAY from the underdrive pulley. If you are only using it as a race or drag car then go for it. But then you might as well remove the A/C, P/S as well. Our stock ones have a damper built in and it will destroy your engine with vibrations as Chambers stated. You can buy an underdrive pulley that has a damper built in but I believe it's around 900 bucks. I will let you know if I find it. You would not gain any significant power from it, maybe only up to 8hp anyways. They always promote more power than usual because they go with the max power than has even been made from them and in most cases was not on the car your buying it for. Go with a aluminum flywheel.... it takes about 40HP to drive the stock flywheel and with an aluminum one under 15HP. Also go with headers, significant gains can be made from racing headers. I made racing headers and exhaust system myself and have Huge gain! you can hear the difference and really feel it. Have yet to dyno it, but will post pics and the specs once I get the time