upgrade advice

[robertsws]

my engine has roughly 94.000 miles on it and is in great shape. my compression is between 145 and 153 through the six cylinders. The book only calls for 143. I plan to do a MHG eventually but not at this time since my compression is so good. for now i'm just going to torque down the head to 75 ft lbs. a MHG with ARP studs is deffinatley on the horizon though. maybe six months from now. Below is my complete upgrade list set up in stages.

Stage 1

• MHG – $119 (suprastore.com)
• ARP STUDS – $128 (suprastore.com)
• APEXI POWER INTAKE - $112 (suprastore.com)
• BIC DDP W/RE-ROUTED WASTEGATE – $437 (bicperformance.com)
• MCCORD POWERPLATE (W/ELECTRIC CUT-OUT) – $140 (mccordcg.com)
• HKS SPORT EXHAUST - $309 (raceinspired.com)
• WALBRO 255LPH FUEL PUMP – $90*
• Drill out the J-tube on the return side of the fuel system. It's bolted to the block on the driver's side, under the intake manifold. (or just bypass it with some rubber fuel line)
• AEROMOTIVE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR - $110*
• RC ENGINEERING 550CC INJECTORS - $535 (suprastore.com)
• LEXUS AFM – $110*
• OBX UNDERDRIVE CRANK PULLEY - $80*
• OBX CAM GEAR - $185*
• ALUMINUM DRIVESHAFT - $380 (suprastore.com)
• JDM FRONT UPPER STRUT BAR - $57*
• JDM REAR UPPER STRUT BAR - $57*

Stage 2

• 90MM THROTTLE BODY - $155*
• HPS 4-PLY SILICONE TURBO INLET - $180*
• UPGRADED INTERCOOLER - ?
• TURBO TIMER - $89 (suprastore.com)
• BOOST CONTROLLER – $127*
• BOOST GAUGE – $160 (fazeguage.com)
• AIR/FUEL GAUGE - $50 (fazeguage.com)**
• EGT GAUGE – $160 (fazeguage.com)
• CX RACING ALUMINUM RADIATOR - $219*
• FLEX-A-LITE DUAL ELECTRIC FANS – $269 (suprastore.com)

Stage 3

• CARBON FIBER HOOD – $280*
• CARBON FIBER TARGA TOP W/LINER – $405*
• RIMS - ?
• BLACK LEATHER SEATS - $1600
• CLEAR BUMBER & MARKER LIGHTS – $80*
• Z-FENDERS – $450*
• BODY KIT - $660*
• HEADLIGHT VENTS - $99*
• PAINT JOB – ?

Upon Convenience

• FIDANZA FLYWHEEL - $288*
• UPGRADED CLUTCH - $253-$428*

[toneloc87 2]

the j tube you can just get a block off plate

[mkiiisupra]

Originally Posted by robertsws

• OBX UNDERDRIVE CRANK PULLEY - $80*
• OBX CAM GEAR - $185*

The underdrive pulley has been known to be very bad for our engines. Do some more research on it before you put it on

Dont know if i remember right but our crank pulley helps reduce vibrations and the underdrive pulley doesnt.

Cam gears are okay though

Originally Posted by Chambers

I would stay away from a lightweight under drive pulley unless your crank has been balanced for it. Without a dampener on it you will destroy your bearings and fry your engine.

[robertsws]

thanks mkiiisupra

i read that post from chambers too and it got me rethinking the underdrive pulley. i've decide that mod is not worth the risk. i appreciate the post though.

[shiftysupra]

STAY AWAY from the underdrive pulley. If you are only using it as a race or drag car then go for it. But then you might as well remove the A/C, P/S as well. Our stock ones have a damper built in and it will destroy your engine with vibrations as Chambers stated. You can buy an underdrive pulley that has a damper built in but I believe it's around 900 bucks. I will let you know if I find it. You would not gain any significant power from it, maybe only up to 8hp anyways. They always promote more power than usual because they go with the max power than has even been made from them and in most cases was not on the car your buying it for. Go with a aluminum flywheel.... it takes about 40HP to drive the stock flywheel and with an aluminum one under 15HP. Also go with headers, significant gains can be made from racing headers. I made racing headers and exhaust system myself and have Huge gain! you can hear the difference and really feel it. Have yet to dyno it, but will post pics and the specs once I get the time