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Old 07-02-2008, 07:25 PM   #1
robertsws
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Question upgrade advice

a quick rundown - new TPS, power steering pump, Spark plugs, belts, oil change, vacuum lines, upgraded BOV, upgraded IC piping, SAFC2, and 3" Exhaust. Cleaned TB, ICV, and intercooler. Replaced valve cover gasket and the 4 o-rings above the spark plug well.

I am putting an upgraded turbo and a lexus AFM on it next. Is there anything I need to do at the same time?
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1991 Supra - Turbo - 5spd
60-1 upgraded turbo
Lexus AFM
3" exhaust, 4" tip
SAFC 2
550cc injectors (2 sets, venom direct fit, RC engineering)
2.5" intercooler and piping
Aluminum radiator w/dual electric fans
ARP bolts w/MHG
Full-auto turbo timer
Fidanza Flywheel & Stage 2 Clutch
spark plugs and wires.
power steering pump
cold temp start switch
engine top end rebuilt
transmission opened up and inspected at a tranny shop when the flywheel and clutch installed last week.
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Old 07-02-2008, 09:09 PM   #2
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New radiator cap. New radiator. Walbro fuel pump. Light weight flywheel. Headers. MSD wires. Iridium plugs. Timing belt cover seal. MSD blaster coil. CF hood. Light weight crank pulley. Fuel pressure regulator.
Coil overs or other shocks. Eibach springs. Lexus 550cc injectors.

You're only skimming the surface dude.
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Old 07-02-2008, 10:34 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supramacist View Post
You're only skimming the surface dude.
Hehehe.


Yea, I would say invest in some of them 550cc injectors, or you may pop your engine a new orifice somewhere.

Good luck!!
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1986.5 Toyota Supra - NA - 5 spd
1986 Ford Ranger Lowrider - 5 spd
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Old 07-03-2008, 12:03 AM   #4
robertsws
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trust me supramacist all that and more is on my list. I'm just curious about what i must do at the same time as the turbo and AFM as to not screw anything up and get it running right.

I was thinking of the 550cc injectors but do i have to get a aeromotive fuel pressure regulator at the same time if i do? And will I also need to upgrade to the Walbro at the same time or can I do them separatly in increments due to money constraints? I am also curious about whether or not I will need a boost controller at that time. I am having a air/fuel gauge and a boost gauge or EGT gauge installed as well. What would you recommend? the boost gauge? or the EGT gauge?
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1991 Supra - Turbo - 5spd
60-1 upgraded turbo
Lexus AFM
3" exhaust, 4" tip
SAFC 2
550cc injectors (2 sets, venom direct fit, RC engineering)
2.5" intercooler and piping
Aluminum radiator w/dual electric fans
ARP bolts w/MHG
Full-auto turbo timer
Fidanza Flywheel & Stage 2 Clutch
spark plugs and wires.
power steering pump
cold temp start switch
engine top end rebuilt
transmission opened up and inspected at a tranny shop when the flywheel and clutch installed last week.

Last edited by robertsws; 07-03-2008 at 12:06 AM.
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Old 07-03-2008, 01:40 AM   #5
ddmcse
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all 3 gauges
but i guess you could lose the exhaust temp for now
it used to be thought that you needed the fuel line work at the same time but you don't your pressure should be fine for now and add it later
what is the condition of the "stock" engine you have there ?
you might have issues if you start boosting the hell out of stock, with what 100k miles on it ?

i'm just guessing here .
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Old 07-03-2008, 03:33 AM   #6
Chambers
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Well if you are getting a Lexus AFM I would suggest you get the 550cc injectors, even without a pressure regulator, It's better than your engine running lean.
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Whats in the garage, well.... in the yard.

1986.5 Toyota Supra - NA - 5 spd
1986 Ford Ranger Lowrider - 5 spd
1984 Ford Ranger XLT - 7" Lift - 4X4 - Auto
"Stuck in the 80's"
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Old 07-03-2008, 03:59 AM   #7
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The afm and injector mods kind of go hand in hand.
I would skip those unless maf-pro is on your list as well.

You can't just throw more air into the mix without upping the fuel along with it. Doing all of this with a walbro fuel pump may compensate without a fuel pressure regulator, especially since you're a turbo. As my walbro covers the arse end with that black soot.
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Old 07-03-2008, 06:19 PM   #8
robertsws
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my engine has roughly 94.000 miles on it and is in great shape. my compression is between 145 and 153 through the six cylinders. The book only calls for 143. I plan to do a MHG eventually but not at this time since my compression is so good. for now i'm just going to torque down the head to 75 ft lbs. a MHG with ARP studs is deffinatley on the horizon though. maybe six months from now. Below is my complete upgrade list set up in stages.

Stage 1
  • MHG – $119 (suprastore.com)
  • ARP STUDS – $128 (suprastore.com)
  • APEXI POWER INTAKE - $112 (suprastore.com)
  • BIC DDP W/RE-ROUTED WASTEGATE – $437 (bicperformance.com)
  • MCCORD POWERPLATE (W/ELECTRIC CUT-OUT) – $140 (mccordcg.com)
  • HKS SPORT EXHAUST - $309 (raceinspired.com)
  • WALBRO 255LPH FUEL PUMP – $90*
  • Drill out the J-tube on the return side of the fuel system. It's bolted to the block on the driver's side, under the intake manifold. (or just bypass it with some rubber fuel line)
  • AEROMOTIVE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR - $110*
  • RC ENGINEERING 550CC INJECTORS - $535 (suprastore.com)
  • LEXUS AFM – $110*
  • OBX UNDERDRIVE CRANK PULLEY - $80*
  • OBX CAM GEAR - $185*
  • ALUMINUM DRIVESHAFT - $380 (suprastore.com)
  • JDM FRONT UPPER STRUT BAR - $57*
  • JDM REAR UPPER STRUT BAR - $57*
Stage 2
  • 90MM THROTTLE BODY - $155*
  • HPS 4-PLY SILICONE TURBO INLET - $180*
  • UPGRADED INTERCOOLER - ?
  • TURBO TIMER - $89 (suprastore.com)
  • BOOST CONTROLLER – $127*
  • BOOST GAUGE – $160 (fazeguage.com)
  • AIR/FUEL GAUGE - $50 (fazeguage.com)**
  • EGT GAUGE – $160 (fazeguage.com)
  • CX RACING ALUMINUM RADIATOR - $219*
  • FLEX-A-LITE DUAL ELECTRIC FANS – $269 (suprastore.com)
Stage 3
  • CARBON FIBER HOOD – $280*
  • CARBON FIBER TARGA TOP W/LINER – $405*
  • RIMS - ?
  • BLACK LEATHER SEATS - $1600
  • CLEAR BUMBER & MARKER LIGHTS – $80*
  • Z-FENDERS – $450*
  • BODY KIT - $660*
  • HEADLIGHT VENTS - $99*
  • PAINT JOB – ?
Upon Convenience
  • FIDANZA FLYWHEEL - $288*
  • UPGRADED CLUTCH - $253-$428*
__________________
1991 Supra - Turbo - 5spd
60-1 upgraded turbo
Lexus AFM
3" exhaust, 4" tip
SAFC 2
550cc injectors (2 sets, venom direct fit, RC engineering)
2.5" intercooler and piping
Aluminum radiator w/dual electric fans
ARP bolts w/MHG
Full-auto turbo timer
Fidanza Flywheel & Stage 2 Clutch
spark plugs and wires.
power steering pump
cold temp start switch
engine top end rebuilt
transmission opened up and inspected at a tranny shop when the flywheel and clutch installed last week.
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Old 07-03-2008, 09:26 PM   #9
toneloc87 2
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the j tube you can just get a block off plate
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Old 07-04-2008, 07:56 AM   #10
mkiiisupra
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertsws View Post
  • OBX UNDERDRIVE CRANK PULLEY - $80*
  • OBX CAM GEAR - $185*
The underdrive pulley has been known to be very bad for our engines. Do some more research on it before you put it on

Dont know if i remember right but our crank pulley helps reduce vibrations and the underdrive pulley doesnt.

Cam gears are okay though
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chambers View Post
I would stay away from a lightweight under drive pulley unless your crank has been balanced for it. Without a dampener on it you will destroy your bearings and fry your engine.
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Last edited by mkiiisupra; 07-04-2008 at 08:06 AM.
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