What could the problem be?

Busted Knuckles · 07-06-2008, 12:59 PM

I agree with the previous post that questioned the amount of blow-by to oil pressure fluctuations. My oil pressure drops at idle, and picks-up at driving, but this has to do with worn bearings, not excessive blow-by. I don't have excessive blow-by. And yes, I tested it.

As far as the cooling system problems, you may want to flush and fill the cooling system, and make sure you pull the radiator out and flush it completely. Crap, gunk and rusty scale could be blocking some of the tubes in the radiator, cutting it's efficiency. Replace the cap and thermostat. Fill with 50/50 coolant. Toyota red is best. Anything good for aluminum protection is OK. I use distilled water. Tap water can contain chemicals that may shorten the life of the anti-rust and water pump lubricating additives in the coolant.

Of course, this is if you rule out a need to re-build. That should be the first focus. If the turbo is leaking oil, it will get sucked through the intercooler on it's way to the engine. You should see oil in the piping. If that is OK, a leak-down test will reveal the condition of the valves and rings. Any shop should be able to do this. If it is out of spec, a rebuild will be required.

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07-06-2008, 12:59 PM	#10
Busted Knuckles 12psi boost Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Atlanta Posts: 300	I agree with the previous post that questioned the amount of blow-by to oil pressure fluctuations. My oil pressure drops at idle, and picks-up at driving, but this has to do with worn bearings, not excessive blow-by. I don't have excessive blow-by. And yes, I tested it. As far as the cooling system problems, you may want to flush and fill the cooling system, and make sure you pull the radiator out and flush it completely. Crap, gunk and rusty scale could be blocking some of the tubes in the radiator, cutting it's efficiency. Replace the cap and thermostat. Fill with 50/50 coolant. Toyota red is best. Anything good for aluminum protection is OK. I use distilled water. Tap water can contain chemicals that may shorten the life of the anti-rust and water pump lubricating additives in the coolant. Of course, this is if you rule out a need to re-build. That should be the first focus. If the turbo is leaking oil, it will get sucked through the intercooler on it's way to the engine. You should see oil in the piping. If that is OK, a leak-down test will reveal the condition of the valves and rings. Any shop should be able to do this. If it is out of spec, a rebuild will be required.