Stills runs HOT!!

[fienloco]

Ok. I am gettn frustrated witht the Supra. New head gasket, new tstat, Fluidyne radiator, 11" electric Fluidyne fan. My next ?. When I have the radiator cap off and the car idling the coolant stays rather stationary in the rad fill hole rev her up it pulls the coolant level down a bit. So my water pump seems to be workn. Squeeze the upper radiator hose and release feel the coolant run past. High altitude where should I time her?? Allready 10 degrees before TDC. Or could the Fluidyne 11" puller fan not be sufficient should I go back to a new stock clutch fan with a shroud and hot wire the A/C electric fan to run with engine as the Fluidyne does? Could I also be gettn hot because my rubber elbo between the air intake and turbo is cracked and not air tight and one of the vacuums that runs off of it is slightly pinched off because it is actually a heater hose rather than a hard pipe as it was stock. Also would all of those issues affect my engine timing. I feel stupid for reposting so many different issues but I am lost on why the car is still getting hot... WTF??!!! I need help.

[Grandavi]

Silly question time... did you test the thermostat?

[fienloco]

Well it was a brand new thermostat so I havent gone there yet. I know they can be faulty from the start.

[Grandavi]

Well, I say silly question because, usually thats where i start. Past that is a lot.. and I mean a lot.. more complex. I dont know if any other users have seen this before, but you talk about a whole whack of different issues, but only address one problem. Not sure what hot means to you. Is it slightly hotter? Or is it like Redline hot? Also, your changing stock settings without really explaining why or how (other than the 10 deg before TDC). I am assuming you only ran with the cap off to make sure the coolant was actually working.

So, unless someone has seen this before and can guess what the problem probably is, I would suggest getting back to basics. Dont advance the timing, keep it as factory specified. Make sure you did the water/antifreeze mixture correctly (I assume you have antifreeze in it.. but Im in Canada and you may do something differenty).

You asked "Could I also be gettn hot because my rubber elbo between the air intake and turbo is cracked and not air tight and one of the vacuums that runs off of it is slightly pinched off because it is actually a heater hose rather than a hard pipe as it was stock."
That kinda scares me.. because now I wonder what else is "kinda" wrong under the hood. So.. it begs to be asked... did you personally do the head gasket?

Maybe someone here knows if a poorly installed headgasket can lead to heat issues. I remember my first Toyota Corrolla 1200CC rebuild.. Beautiful job.. but I put the thrust bearings in backwards (which is quite simple to do in that motor if you get distracted right at that time.. lol).

Sometimes a big problem starts at the beginning.

Sorry I couldnt give you a magic answer.. Just trying to fish and maybe spark a thought with you that might point you in the right direction.


P.s. just read previous posts. At some point when you have as many problems as you are having, try to find an expert (ie. mechanic or someone who knows their stuff). Make it a live person though, to actually see and hear what you have accomplished and the problems at hand. If you are trying to learn how to do this all by yourself... all the reading in the world doesnt make up for real experience. I usually take my projects to a certain point and if Im not happy at that point, I call for help. Better to learn how to rebuild properly than to do it wrong and think its right. If there is some small issues now, they may grow to be big issues if you miss them.
I only point that out because none of us are getting more information from you than what you type. Seeing and Hearing go much farther.

[fienloco]

To answer that. Yes I did my own head gasket. I was in no hurry as not to make a major mistake with the gasket. Its has been a ? since she heats up though. Not too likely but I ? myself. Definately not redline hot the gauge reads just over the halfway point. I do ? the temp sensor as it seems way hotter than I remember. Can you touch the top tank of your radiator after its ran?? My silly ?. I ask because I think its me worrying a bit when I souldnt. Then again. Who knows? I also found the heater line on the banjo bolt on the back of the head is leaking a bit apparently only enough to blow out some of coolant then it stops. I am also wondering if the small leak somewhat pinhole could cause this?... That electric fan though I do ? more than the failed stock clutch fan and shroud? It pulls but not through the entire range of the radiator as it is not wide enough. So I understand your concerns and some of the things I changed over that need to go back to what they were i.e the lines off the intake and the intake boot before the turbo. I appreciate the input.

[Grandavi]

You have little issues like leaking vacuum hoses that I would deal with first, but next I would either take the car in for a rad pressure test. Wondering if you had such a bad headgasket before if the car may have been run low on coolant for a while and you have build up somewhere. Also I think the temp sender is fairly inexpensive and simple to replace. You may want to buy one, try it and see if that is any different, then if no change, just return it.

Also, I would test your thermostat first as that is my first thought if coolant levels are normal but it runs hot. Simple to do by putting it in a pot of water with a thermometer and seeing what temp it opens. You could take it right out for a quick test, but it will take longer to heat up the motor.

Also, I try to keep the shroud on, to prevent the fan from drawing warm air from the motor compartment when cooling. I had to remake a shroud once out of sheet metal for my 1977 1ton and then switch the rad from a 3core to a 5core when I started pulling a boat to keep the engine cool.

Any leakage of coolant.. even if only when pressure is built up, should be fixed. Sooner than later.. just to feel safer about driving it.

Be interesting to see if its a single problem or a mix of problems. Slightly over half-way is not a serious issue, although I don't know what that would mean in engine temperature.


Finally, misfiring could be doing it, but that could be a lot of problems. Im guessing you want to make sure the cooling system is perfect first.

[fienloco]

Allright I have drained the coolant down and replaced the old heater hose that was for sure a problem. I have the the intake vacuum parts on order from Toyota to eliviate that issue. I think it may be causing some timing issues. I am going to pull that new tstat and see that it funtioning properlly I always have issues with the damn things every single vehicle I have ever owned old new or otherwise headgaskets too. I have done several hgaskets on my vehicles...

When you bleed the cooling system what is the best method to get the all air out? That is another posibility aside from a leaky heater hose and that could be the problem all in its self. Correct?

I also need to test my oil pressure as it seems lower than I have ever seen it maybe the sending unit. Running down the road on the gas no boost 40+psi?? Not right I say. I remember around 80-psi.

I have so many things that keep running through my head as the car is my pride and joy. I need it. Not about to throw the 5000 Ive spent on it down the drain. JDM. I actually got the engine and tranny from a place in your providence. My old 77 Dodge is worn down and needs to be garaged and loved on alot to make reliable as it once was. Hope to hear back the input is good and more useful than a book thats off on most specs as it is. Thanx again.

[Grandavi]

I think the cooling system is a closed system. Therefore, you put the coolant in and it pushes the air out. Then you fill the reservoir and run the car for a bit. Checking the external reservoir to ensure it stays full. Shouldn't take long to cycle out the air.

Of course.. thats what I do, it may be incorrect advice.

[btwilson86]

The best way I've read and done is to "burp" the system. Jack the front of the car up as high as you can, remove the cap, and turn the car on. You'll see air bubbles slowly escaping, and you'll need to keep adding coolant as necessary. This process is long (many hours usually), but necessary. You have to do it this way because the Heater Core is located in a spot that makes it higher than the top of the radiator when the vehilce is level, and air gets trapped in it because of this.