My MKIII - My Project - Need a few answers

[Grandavi]

Originally Posted by Chambers

I think the latch is for the seat belts, so they wind back up when the door is opened, the one on my car never worked, it was broken. I even replaced it and it broke again, so I find my self guiding the seat belt back up every time I leave my car.

You have a nice car there, rust and dents in all. If you plan to pull the door louvers you will have to pull some of the interior panels off to get the bolts holding them on, as for the rust in the rear, check under your spare tire as well, for now just get some WD-40 and hose every metal surface down in the rear, and in the valleys on the outside of the hatch weather stripping on the car side.

Good luck.

Yeah, I think you may be right about the latch being for the seat belts. It gets pushed sideways everytime the door closes. Probably just releases the seat belt lock.

Found no rust anywhere except that one wheelwell (other is perfectly fine) and the one small spot on the front of the driver's side fender. Hoping that the paint can get matched relatively close once that is repaired.

Really wound this baby out this afternoon... it sure can move... but afterwards I got that smell of burning oil. I got some repairs to do on this motor without a doubt, so I think its probably smart to start purchasing all the parts I will need before I start replacing them (do it all in one shot). I am definitely doing a turbo timer, and will probably mod that downpipe (still dont totally understand what's what under the hood, but I'll get it all down pat soon... ). Now I sit and ponder... did they just throw a 5th gear in this puppy just for those that want to attempt 200 MPH? lol. Im having trouble keeping it at 100kph (60 MPH) in 5th...

[Scionguy]

haha very nice. after i get my 89 n/a all restored im selling it and buying a turbo model instead lol. if you wd-40 those rust spots, make sure to tell the painter, or he'll hate you for it, i work at a piant shop, wd-40,wax,oil is not our friend lol. the more you spool that turbo, the warmer its guna be, so that lil bit of oil on things is just burning off, you prob stop smelling it soon or if their are leaks keep an eye on your oil level then, dont wana burn that turbo up lol. i hear that replacing that downpipe makes you spool quit a bit quicker and pull alot harder, if you do the downipe youll probably want a boost controller to prevent spike too, im sure someone will back this up or correct me lol.

[Grandavi]

The whole turbo issue is going to be a "Read/Get Advice/Plan/get plan approved/do" issue as this is my first ever turbo vehicle. This forum is an excellent resource, but actually having parts in your hand is the best teacher. Its just not the area I want to make a mistake in.

I think to do it properly, i need to change the downpipe, add(?) a wastegate and blowoff valve?, putting on a timer (regardless, that is my first thing to do), and I dont know anything regarding spikes. (think the timer solves that, but not sure)

Its a learning curve

[Scionguy]

a turbo timer keeps your ignition running even after you've turned off the key for a preset amount of time depending on driving time and style to allow the turbo to cool back to a normal level before ceasing oil flw to it. a blow off releases psi when the throttle plate is closed to reduce/prevent backspin compressor surge ( imagine throwing your trans from 4th to reverse.. lol) the wastegate regulates boost pressure and spike, boost spike is when the turbo boosts past a preset point becuase the Wastgate cant dump quickly enoug, i think his is one of the last terms im still fuzzy on. but a downpipe should be done with a diff exhuast, but that will reduce turbo lag, and increase your turbo's potential to a certain point. a boost controller helps works with a wastegate by telling it when to open, close, intsead of just the spring in the wastgate. that help? haha and ive never owned a turbo car, but ima own 3 sooner or later guna boost my xb, 2jz swap my ranchero, and get the turbo supra lmao.

[Grandavi]

Originally Posted by Scionguy

a turbo timer keeps your ignition running even after you've turned off the key for a preset amount of time depending on driving time and style to allow the turbo to cool back to a normal level before ceasing oil flw to it. a blow off releases psi when the throttle plate is closed to reduce/prevent backspin compressor surge ( imagine throwing your trans from 4th to reverse.. lol) the wastegate regulates boost pressure and spike, boost spike is when the turbo boosts past a preset point becuase the Wastgate cant dump quickly enoug, i think his is one of the last terms im still fuzzy on. but a downpipe should be done with a diff exhuast, but that will reduce turbo lag, and increase your turbo's potential to a certain point. a boost controller helps works with a wastegate by telling it when to open, close, intsead of just the spring in the wastgate. that help? haha and ive never owned a turbo car, but ima own 3 sooner or later guna boost my xb, 2jz swap my ranchero, and get the turbo supra lmao.

Starting to think I should plan on doing turbo and exhaust at the same time. If I do the exhaust, I may be able to get rid of the catalytic converter.. but that would lead down a whole new path as I think all the emmission controls have to be fiddled with if that happens. Of course I wont know until I map it all out. Currently searching thru forums for diagrams or links to for the turbo and exhaust.

Going to swap out the current wet air filter for this one (unless someone screams DONT!). I just ran out to the car and checked.. currently it has a K&N filter (the wet one). The only thing I dont like about it is that it uses the oil and cleaner (think its 10 bucks per refill) and I would rather have the higher performing "zero maintenance" apexi... if your gonna do it.. get the best... lol. However.. saying that... is it worth going from K&N to Apexi?
http://www.autosportz.com/airintake_...upra_apexi.htm
If you look at the engine compartment pics... (earlier in this area), my K&N is inside the stock air filter housing. Is that okay?

Also, I have noticed that bar that is sometimes seen going across the top of the motor from strut to strut. What is that bar. I see it, but no info on it (not knowing what its called makes it hard to search out)

And... this may be a stupid question... but what does the hose that comes from the "3000 pipe" and goes into the pass side engine compartment wall for?

Looked at changing the intercooler from stock to HKS.. but at 1000.00... gonna be happy with what I got. Besides.. this is my daily driver, I wont be racing it after I get the newness out of my system (i jumped out of a 1996 Ford Taurus into this... lol)

[MK3PIMP]

get a 3'' downpipe with a full 3'' exhaust with a 3'' high flow cat and get a intake ngk plugs wires boost gauge boost controller 2.5 hard intercooler pipes with bov and turbo timer set boost to 10-12psi and have a lil fun.

the hose from the 3000pipe is the intercooler hoses /pipes and u can fond intercooler kit just for mk3 on ebay for like 300-400 or make your own . all that should get u going

[MK3PIMP]

oh yea ebay is your friend and if u cant get it on ebay this is the place

[Grandavi]

Originally Posted by MK3PIMP

get a 3'' downpipe with a full 3'' exhaust with a 3'' high flow cat and get a intake ngk plugs wires boost gauge boost controller 2.5 hard intercooler pipes with bov and turbo timer set boost to 10-12psi and have a lil fun.

the hose from the 3000pipe is the intercooler hoses /pipes and u can fond intercooler kit just for mk3 on ebay for like 300-400 or make your own . all that should get u going

3" downpipe with a full 3" exhaust - sounds good! I take it the 3" high flow cat is part of the full 3" exhaust. Gotta price this out... that would also require a 3" header Im guessing.

Intake? Not sure what you mean by that. What would be the benefit? Ahhh.. more research needed!

The plugs and wires will be replaced after I deal with the oil leaks (hunting those down.. so far I just suspect the oil lines going into the turbo...) Will be using triple plat spark plugs or ngk iridiums, not sure about the wires yet.

Boost gauge and boost controller... wouldn't the stock boost gauge be sufficient? I am planning to install a Turbo timer, but the boost controller is a bit new to me. Gonna read up about that one, as it wasn't in my plans yet.

The 2.5 hard intercooler pipes with bov, I've read a little about, and that could be a possibility. I haven't truly been under that car yet, so I will probably leave thinking about that until after the stuff above. I think thats just to make the turbo cool more efficiently if I understand it correctly.

I've also read about wastegates... is this something I should also be considering?

Also, I read this

The reason for blowing head gaskets was due to Toyota only torquing the head gasket from the factory to 56-58 ft lbs. This torque spec would have been more than adequate for the asbestos HG that was originally intended for the engine. Since Toyota did not switch the torque spec to roughly 72 ft lbs when switching HG material, every 7M-GE that is left untouched is doomed to a fate of a 'BHG', usually between 125,000 miles and 175,000 miles. A correctly torqued OEM HG will last as long as the engine will.

so am thinking maybe I should be checking torque on the headbolts.

Bear in mind.. Im not building racecar.. just a daily driver that is fun (and a bit impressive...). ;D


Doing research/parts sourcing... noticed this.. any thoughts on it? Its a chip...
eBay Motors: TOYOTA CAMRY CELICA SUPRA Performance CHIP /Gas/SAVER (item 260279384924 end time Aug-28-08 18:30:00 PDT)

[suprakid91]

Originally Posted by Scionguy

haha very nice. after i get my 89 n/a all restored im selling it and buying a turbo model instead lol. if you wd-40 those rust spots, make sure to tell the painter, or he'll hate you for it, i work at a piant shop, wd-40,wax,oil is not our friend lol. the more you spool that turbo, the warmer its guna be, so that lil bit of oil on things is just burning off, you prob stop smelling it soon or if their are leaks keep an eye on your oil level then, dont wana burn that turbo up lol. i hear that replacing that downpipe makes you spool quit a bit quicker and pull alot harder, if you do the downipe youll probably want a boost controller to prevent spike too, im sure someone will back this up or correct me lol.

yes scionguy, i back you up. haha. get the controller to prevent spike cuz you will probably hit fuel cut if it spikes too high.

[Grandavi]

The appraisal was just a long question/answer period followed by a intense inspection and photo shoot, followed by researching replacing the vehicle. There are about 3 pages of itemizations with conditions listed and a car history/summarization at the end. Then, a cost that reflects replacement cost. I was thinking more like 4900 (its CDN dollars btw), but it came out at 6k. Hard to find a decent 88 in Canada right now unless its right hand drive. Even then... its tough. (those are usually "pimped" and cost over 10k... I only found one that I would even consider driving)

As for the downpipe and booster, I am sourcing all the parts now. Going to up the exhaust to a 3" catback system, boost control, boost timer, retrofitting the A/C (just to get rid of that little headache and I don't like playing with A/C systems). I am also going to upgrade the air intake system, but I am having difficulty sourcing the parts for that. I already have a K&N filter, but from what I have read, upgrading will allow the engine to have a "smoother" and more controlled air intake. As well, when the exhaust gets put on, Im going to slap hard-pipes on the intercooler. I looked at upgrading the intercooler, but for under 300hp (which the car will probably remain) I dont think its worth it.

After logging about 10 hours driving it, I am finding it fun to drive, scary to take above 110 mph with current rubber, and frustrating when people wont get out of the way! : )