Replacing Clutch reservoir Hose and fixing rock plate (plastic one)

[Grandavi]

I just did this today, so I thought I would make a post for it. Basically to give any non-mechanic type guy like myself a heads-up on what to expect and just show what I found.

First, its an easy to do repair/maintenance item so no fear here. On my 7M-GTE I just needed a 10 mm wrench, 17mm wrench and pliers (to pull the clip off) Of course.. being this is the first time I did it, I removed 2 things I did not need to, 1. the rock gaurd/plate the protects the engine from rocks/water when driving and 2. the rock guard that protects the brake/clutch line beside the subframe.

NOTE: on the TSRM Manual go here to read up on what to do...
MK3 TSRM On-Line

Here's a picture/explanation:

This is the clutch line / brakeline guard (one piece that I removed but could have left on)

Remember if you take these off, they are plastic, so overtightening the bolts will rip em up a bit... it just protects the union from the metal line coming from the clutch master cylinder where you connect the flexible line. I could have actually done this without taking it off, but it was easier with it off.

This is a picture of the area with the cover on... (and the old messy hose that was leaking)


The replacement hose will have c-rings on it that you do not have to remove. The plate you remove is on the other side of the hose (you can't see it here) Simply pulling it down will release the old hose after you remove the steel line.

This is the old hose, the clips you have to remove using pliers (or the tool that your supposed to, which I did not have.. so pliers worked just fine). The hose was cracking on the outside and leaking enough that I had to fill my reservoir about once every 4 days.


The plates on the right are found on the same side as the steel line that goes into this hose.

This is the new hose on the car and the guard replaced.. you can see the clip on this pic.


All in all ... should take you about 15 min maximum to change once you got the car up on stands or a hoist (pictures would have been much easier if it was on a hoist... hard to do photos properly when the car is on stands)

This is comparison of old and new hoses. In retrospect if I would have read more prior to doing this, I would have used the steel braided line. It costs less for the better after market version than it does to pick this up at the dealership. (by about $10.00)


You just use the 17 mm wrench on the new hose (behind the c-clip) and use the 10 mm on the steel line fitting (shown below)


Remember to have something to catch the fluid that comes out... messy...

This is a very simple process and I hope the pictures just let you know what you'll be looking at. Basically, if your slowly losing fluid, this is the first and easiest place to look. If this hose isnt leaking, its usually the clutch master cylinder.

I will deal with Bleeding the system on the next post.

[Grandavi]

Now.. to bleed a clutch there are 2 basic ways to attack it... and the one I used dont work well.. Its different than a brake system, because if you use the "push down" while opening the bleed nipple, the clutch will go to the floor and stay there. Then you have to pull it up by hand. I, not knowing better, did it this way utilizing one of my boys for the push down/pull up. Probably the worst possible way to achieve this.
Also.. if your not bright like me.... and do this.. you have to press it down a few times and only open the bleeder nipple slightly or else all pressure falls down.

The correct way (which is discussed in the TSRM that I linked above) is to have a hose that fits over the bleed nipple and goes into a jar or bottle of brake fluid. That way, you can open up the nipple and pump it up and down to circulate the fluid through. It will blow the air out (dont do it rapidly) and cant suck air back in this way. BEST WAY!

My way took me an hour... and really sucked.. so I recommend what the TSRM says...

Now.. note that you need to keep an eye on the level in the Clutch master cylinder (shown below). Try to not let it go down below the half way mark or you could suck air down into it again...


(the clutch master cylinder is right near the driver side door against the firewall.. basically in line with the clutch pedal)

I let my reservoir run low as shown and had to begin again. Its a pain to do it wrong.. lol. Should have taken me only 30 minutes from start to finish.. but took me almost 2 hours cause my brain was on vacation...

A pic...


A question here... I started out with DOT3 Brake fluid (thats what the manual calls for) and then ran out. So, my wife picked up some DOT3 synthetic brake fluid, which I did not notice the synthetic part until afterwards. Shouldn't make a difference Im hoping...

Questions? : )

[Grandavi]

Finally.. I mention the engine rock protector plate in the title because I took mine off. Didn't realise until after it was off that there was absolutely no need. However, I thought I would include it, because as I put it back on I noticed something.

If you service the car or someone else does, chances are they either over tighten the bolts or wear and tear on the holes from the bolts will make it hang imporperly (as was the case for mine). This plate starts directly under the bumper at the very front of the car and goes to the back of the engine right before the oil pan drain plug. It pretty well covers the bottom of the engine and the hoses down there...

Here is a pic of it off of the car.



Now, I noticed that these screws were pulling through cracked/enlargened holes...



So... I used larger washers. Bear in mind.. these are the only screws I took off originally. It wasn't until after I went to put it back on that I noticed the other 7 screws (pretty sure it was 7) that were still on the car but pulled behind the plate.

The picture shows the "fixed" screw with the new washer on the right side. I used a thin metal washer that could bend slightly as I tightend as some of these holes have contours near them. A thick large washer may crack the plastic.