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Old 03-11-2009, 02:58 AM   #21
Vacationtime247
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Engine bay is done. Paint is on and it looks infinitely better than the mess that it once was. Going to let that dry for a day or 2 then position the engine / tranny down in.

The shifter is bolted to the floor in the pic. Still needs a piece of carpet between the seats and under the shifter. Shifter required some fabrication to mount it right where I wanted. Some cutting, grinding, drilling and welding on 3 pieces of steel, then bolted to the car using factory holes.
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Old 03-11-2009, 01:50 PM   #22
will fight for food
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that is really black cant see much else
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:30 PM   #23
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That engine bay does look alot better than any I've seen with the stock paint, although I think it would've been even better if you had taken everything off of the firewall and fenders. Especially your brake master cylinder and hoses.... Kinda makes it look a little hurried now.
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Old 03-12-2009, 03:32 AM   #24
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Yea, it wasn't meant to be perfect. Taking all that stuff off takes time and I wasn't striving to be meticulous. Just wanted it to look better than before. I'm fairly pleased with the results and the rustoleum will keep corrosion at bay and cleaning the engine gunk off now will be simple. Take it to the car wash and hose it all down. It was pressure washed before the paint went on. There is some texturing to some areas, but by in large it's much better than before.

In the bottom picture (i.jpg), of the interior, I'm planning on placing 3 gauges clustered together where the radio was. The 3 gauges will monitor, Temp, Oil Pressure and Voltage. I'll drill or cut out a hole to pass the probes and lines out to the engine. Such as the brass pressure hose for the oil, the flexible line for the engine temp and the voltage. I've made a lot of progress on this car already and have only had it for about a month.
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Originally Posted by btwilson86 View Post
That engine bay does look alot better than any I've seen with the stock paint, although I think it would've been even better if you had taken everything off of the firewall and fenders. Especially your brake master cylinder and hoses.... Kinda makes it look a little hurried now.
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Old 03-13-2009, 04:41 PM   #25
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hey all, ive been out of these forums since i got into bikes, but as a supra person that kept his car resting in his garage,,,

i still find it funny, when i read the post here,,

and yeah lame idea on the chevy motor
but, and thats a big butt, i do feel ur pain, resurecting a dead 7m isnt the best idea or the most fun,
i see other pples point about sticking to toyota motors, but hey
ive been doing that and my car is still dead,

so A for the effort, but F for the thought

anyways good luck with your build my friend let us know what happens
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Old 03-15-2009, 03:35 AM   #26
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Here's a picture of the nearly completed interior. Still needs cleaned and the carpet strip. Gauges have been mounted and lines ran through the transmission tunnel. Temp Sensor and Oil Pressure line routed to the freshly painted engine bay. Gauges are mounted where the radio used to be. Need to pick up a 12 inch by 40 inch piece of black carpet. Will go under the gauges, shifter and ran back to the rear seats. No middle console will be used, just the ratchet shifter.

Thinking that the engine will use a dual support in the front. Standard engine mounts using the stock frame mounts modified. Second, front motor plates bolted to the heads. The plates will be flat sheet metal, squared and cornered to the frame rail on each side. Then, some 90 degree angle iron mounted to each side, front and back.

Transmission will use the stock tranny mount but modified, then a T brace running from one frame rail to the other. Hoping that the tranny will be high enough so that the tail of the transmission is concentric but not parellel to the diff. That way the driveshaft angle is positioned correctly.
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Old 03-15-2009, 04:23 AM   #27
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I just wanna say props to you on continuing to post your progress despite the crap you're getting from alot of the people on here. Most people would've told them to f*** off and be done with it.

I wouldn't personally do what you are doing, but now I'm really interested to see how it turns out. Keep us updated
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Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels
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Old 03-16-2009, 01:23 AM   #28
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Thanks man, glad at least one person is following along. Here is a picture of the finished interior. You'll see my vehicle security system is on, it's installed in the glove box. LOL! The carpet is layed and cut. Bought a gallon of rustoleum so I can start on the body paint after masking. Bought a few rattle cans to get the hard to reach areas. Went ahead and put a quick coat on the running board area, the pillars, the door sides and the flip up headlights. I'll begin masking it off soon. Will use a tack cloth to pull off any remaining particles. Going to put a red stripe down the center of the car. Following the hood bulge, going all the way back over the roof and down the rear bumper.
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Originally Posted by btwilson86 View Post
I just wanna say props to you on continuing to post your progress despite the crap you're getting from alot of the people on here. Most people would've told them to f*** off and be done with it.

I wouldn't personally do what you are doing, but now I'm really interested to see how it turns out. Keep us updated
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Old 03-20-2009, 04:56 AM   #29
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Almost finished masking the car off. Did a quick rattle can paint spray to the nose just to give me an idea what it'll look like once I'm finished. Need to mask off the back glass on both sides. Covers have been removed from the back hatch, it's getting painted too.

This car is coming along quickly, I want to be driving it before the end of spring. Sure, there is a lot left to finish yet. But it's keeping me occupied. Always liked having a project hot rod around.

Here's a list of just some of the vehicles I've owned in the past. I'm sure I'll forget at least 15-20. Each has it's own story....

1987 Pontiac Sunbird, 1987 Pontiac Firebird, 1981 Z-28, 1980 Z-28, 1978(?) AMC Matador Wagon, 1995(?) Mitsubishi Mighty Max P/U, 1981 Z-28, 1979 Trans Am, 1972 Mach 1, 1986 Ford Econoline van, 1976 Z-28, 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442, 1970 Ford Torino Grande, 1970 Ford Torino GT, 1979 Trans Am, 1979 Mercury Marquie, 1973 Mach 1, 1971 Mach 1, 1988 Toyota Supra Turbo, 1979 Chevrolet Monte Carlo, 1986 Buick Skylark, 1977 Pontiac Tempest, 1987 Nissan P/U, 1986 Chevrolet Cavalier, 1987 Dodge Daytona Turbo, 1988 Pontiac Sunbird, 1987 Pontiac Sunbird Convertible Turbo, 1989 Chrysler LeBaron Convertible, 1991 Buick LeSabre, 1987 Pontiac Grand Am, 1989 Pontiac Grand Prix, 1993 Chevrolet Lumina, 1993 Lincoln Town Car, 1987 Lincoln Town Car, 1983 Lincoln Mark Series, 1969 Lincoln Mark Series, 1991 Geo Spectrum, 1988 Dodge Dynasty, 1979 Ford Extended cab F-250, 1976 Ford F-350, 1978 Ford F-150, 1986 F-150, 1976 Ford Wrecker, 1987 IROC, 1987 Pontiac Trans Am, 1984 Recaro T/A, 1978 Pontiac Grand Prix, 1991 Buick Roadmaster Wagon, 1988 Chevrolet C-1500, 1970 Chevrolet C-10, 1983 Mazda RX-7, 1987 Toyota Supra, 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 1993 Jeep Cherokee, 1991 Ford Escort wagon, 1987 Ford Escort GT, 1978 Ford Pinto, 1993 Toyota Tercel, 1986 Ford Bronco II, 1993 Geo Tracker, 1978 Mercedes Benz 350/700R4, 1980 Pontiac Formula, 1984 Chevrolet Corvette, 1986 IROC, 1991 IROC, 1985 Buick Riviera, 1986 Ford Tempo, 1983 Datsun 280ZX, 1986 Nissan 300Z, 1987 Hyundai Accent, and countless others
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Old 03-21-2009, 02:44 AM   #30
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Default Engine test fit is a success

The engine is in and has been test fitted. Goes in like it was made for it. Only had to cut a small hole on the passenger side for the transmission to fit in good. My assumption of using two seperate engine mounting techniques were correct. One, a plate from the stock frame mount going forward to bolt on the engine mounts. Second, a front plate mounted to the motor. It will run the distance from the passenger to the drivers side frame rail. 90* angle iron will be welded to the frame rail on each side of the plate. The stock transmission mount is in a great location also. It won't require much modification to make it work. I'll do the painting after the engine is done. Who knows how many more times it will need to come in and out. The masking however is done.
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