Crank Pulley Removal . . . again

Paul_NJ · 03-15-2009, 01:52 PM

I'm on 135,000 miles with an original timing belt, so while I'll pulling things apart to replace the oil seals on top, I thought I'd break the "if it isn't broke . . ." rule.

I searched and found a helpful thread several years ago discussing how to get the crank pulley off, debating the pros and cons of the "starter bump method" vs the "block the flywheel" method. Neither excites me much. What I wish to avoid most is removing the starter. Unhappy memories.

I've got a pretty strong 3/4" drive air impact wrench. Has anyone had success getting the nut off that way? I'd rather pull the radiator, if necessairy, that that lousy starter.

Then again maybe I should stick to the "if it isn't broke . . ." rule.

skadaloz · 03-15-2009, 11:34 PM

you could use the 3/4 inch impact gun...some people like to used the electric 3/4 inch impact gun....but use what you have and start from there

IHateHacks · 03-16-2009, 04:31 PM

If you remove it with your air tool, you will still need to block the flywheel in order to apply 195ft/lbs to the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt.

Paul_NJ · 03-17-2009, 04:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

If you remove it with your air tool, you will still need to block the flywheel in order to apply 195ft/lbs to the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt.

Hmmm, you're right of course. Hadn't thought that far ahead. Back to removing the starter. Gettin that one back bolt out is a nightmare.

Thanks

Quint · 03-17-2009, 10:01 AM

Err i just got a 3/4 socket, a power bar, put the car into 5th pulled handbrake on hard, applied brakes hard and heaved away. (someone else was in the car obviously)

Popped off like a cork.

also, with the rattle gun you wouldn't need to block the flywheel as they don't provide constant load rather a jolting action (think twisting left and right constantly) to crack nuts off.

NOTE: have a ceramic clutch so maybe a normal one would slip, but i doubt it.

ddmcse · 03-17-2009, 11:27 AM

getting the pulley off can be done , getting the pulley back on and tight better be done right or you'll wreck the key on the crank shaft over time with little warning . rut roh

btwilson86 · 03-19-2009, 05:21 PM

All belts stretch over time, which is why they have scheduled intervals to change them. Seeing as how you're at 130,000 miles on the original belt, I'd say you should change it. If you're not getting it to budge with a long breaker bar, then you probably should soak it liberally with some penetrating fluid. Maybe you can try using the "starter bump" method next time you try to get it off. I've never removed mine, so unfortunately I can't offer you any real help in removing it.

Oh, and make sure you replace your tensioner with your belt

Paul_NJ · 03-19-2009, 05:42 PM

BT: Thanks. I'll start soaking it with Kroil . . . that's the best stuff I've found. I keep telling myself I've gotten this far . . . Just needed some encouragement I guess.

Bill: I've been thinking about the easiest way to make an SST. Perhaps an even simpler technique than the doughnut scheme might be a square steel plate, maybe 1/4 or 3/8 inch thick, maybe 6 inches square . . . or any size larger than the diameter of the crank pulley. Drill 5 holes . . . one in the center large enough to pass a 19mm socket, and 4 more to pass 8mm bolts to thread into the pulley. The plate sits on the outside of the pulley rather than down inside. After bolting it up, stack up some short but heavy blocks of wood, maybe on top of a concrete block . . . between the floor and one flat of the square plate. May have to jam in a shim to tighten the stack up. But that should hold it. You'd have to lift the car for it to slip. Long as the 8mm bolts don't break. But using all four threaded holes should help. What do you think?

The threaded holes in my pulley are rusty and full of dirt. Definitely need cleaning and chasing. I'm going to see if i can find one each of M8x1 and m8x1.25 bolts to find out what we've got.

Bill UK · 03-19-2009, 07:53 PM

A few more photos’ Paul, I agree there must be an easer way to fabricate a pulley tool. The bottom photo looks similar to your suggestion. Did you say you where in the UK when we used farthings? you must have met Sherlock Homes.

Paul_NJ · 03-20-2009, 02:06 AM

The bolt size is M8 x 1.25

Bolt spacing tomorrow.

03-15-2009, 01:52 PM	#1
Paul_NJ Intake Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Jersey Posts: 36	Crank Pulley Removal . . . again I'm on 135,000 miles with an original timing belt, so while I'll pulling things apart to replace the oil seals on top, I thought I'd break the "if it isn't broke . . ." rule. I searched and found a helpful thread several years ago discussing how to get the crank pulley off, debating the pros and cons of the "starter bump method" vs the "block the flywheel" method. Neither excites me much. What I wish to avoid most is removing the starter. Unhappy memories. I've got a pretty strong 3/4" drive air impact wrench. Has anyone had success getting the nut off that way? I'd rather pull the radiator, if necessairy, that that lousy starter. Then again maybe I should stick to the "if it isn't broke . . ." rule.

03-17-2009, 10:01 AM	#5
Quint Intake Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: New Zealand Posts: 32	Err i just got a 3/4 socket, a power bar, put the car into 5th pulled handbrake on hard, applied brakes hard and heaved away. (someone else was in the car obviously) Popped off like a cork. also, with the rattle gun you wouldn't need to block the flywheel as they don't provide constant load rather a jolting action (think twisting left and right constantly) to crack nuts off. NOTE: have a ceramic clutch so maybe a normal one would slip, but i doubt it. Last edited by Quint; 03-17-2009 at 10:04 AM.

03-17-2009, 11:27 AM	#6
ddmcse 500whp yet? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT U.S.A. Posts: 966	getting the pulley off can be done , getting the pulley back on and tight better be done right or you'll wreck the key on the crank shaft over time with little warning . rut roh __________________ 300+ RW HP Dyno run, jdm,mod turbo,3"exh,electfan,greddyboost Blown HeadGasket info My Supra KiXGaS

03-19-2009, 05:21 PM	#7
btwilson86 Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Billings, Montana Posts: 1,034	All belts stretch over time, which is why they have scheduled intervals to change them. Seeing as how you're at 130,000 miles on the original belt, I'd say you should change it. If you're not getting it to budge with a long breaker bar, then you probably should soak it liberally with some penetrating fluid. Maybe you can try using the "starter bump" method next time you try to get it off. I've never removed mine, so unfortunately I can't offer you any real help in removing it. Oh, and make sure you replace your tensioner with your belt __________________ 1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels

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03-15-2009, 11:34 PM	#2
skadaloz 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: sumwhea in PA Posts: 60	you could use the 3/4 inch impact gun...some people like to used the electric 3/4 inch impact gun....but use what you have and start from there

03-16-2009, 04:31 PM	#3
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	If you remove it with your air tool, you will still need to block the flywheel in order to apply 195ft/lbs to the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt.

03-19-2009, 05:42 PM	#8
Paul_NJ Intake Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Jersey Posts: 36	BT: Thanks. I'll start soaking it with Kroil . . . that's the best stuff I've found. I keep telling myself I've gotten this far . . . Just needed some encouragement I guess. Bill: I've been thinking about the easiest way to make an SST. Perhaps an even simpler technique than the doughnut scheme might be a square steel plate, maybe 1/4 or 3/8 inch thick, maybe 6 inches square . . . or any size larger than the diameter of the crank pulley. Drill 5 holes . . . one in the center large enough to pass a 19mm socket, and 4 more to pass 8mm bolts to thread into the pulley. The plate sits on the outside of the pulley rather than down inside. After bolting it up, stack up some short but heavy blocks of wood, maybe on top of a concrete block . . . between the floor and one flat of the square plate. May have to jam in a shim to tighten the stack up. But that should hold it. You'd have to lift the car for it to slip. Long as the 8mm bolts don't break. But using all four threaded holes should help. What do you think? The threaded holes in my pulley are rusty and full of dirt. Definitely need cleaning and chasing. I'm going to see if i can find one each of M8x1 and m8x1.25 bolts to find out what we've got.

03-19-2009, 07:53 PM	#9
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	A few more photos’ Paul, I agree there must be an easer way to fabricate a pulley tool. The bottom photo looks similar to your suggestion. Did you say you where in the UK when we used farthings? you must have met Sherlock Homes.

03-20-2009, 02:06 AM	#10
Paul_NJ Intake Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Jersey Posts: 36	The bolt size is M8 x 1.25 Bolt spacing tomorrow.

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