Crank Pulley Removal . . . again

Paul_NJ · 03-15-2009, 01:52 PM

I'm on 135,000 miles with an original timing belt, so while I'll pulling things apart to replace the oil seals on top, I thought I'd break the "if it isn't broke . . ." rule.

I searched and found a helpful thread several years ago discussing how to get the crank pulley off, debating the pros and cons of the "starter bump method" vs the "block the flywheel" method. Neither excites me much. What I wish to avoid most is removing the starter. Unhappy memories.

I've got a pretty strong 3/4" drive air impact wrench. Has anyone had success getting the nut off that way? I'd rather pull the radiator, if necessairy, that that lousy starter.

Then again maybe I should stick to the "if it isn't broke . . ." rule.

skadaloz · 03-15-2009, 11:34 PM

you could use the 3/4 inch impact gun...some people like to used the electric 3/4 inch impact gun....but use what you have and start from there

IHateHacks · 03-16-2009, 04:31 PM

If you remove it with your air tool, you will still need to block the flywheel in order to apply 195ft/lbs to the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt.

Paul_NJ · 03-17-2009, 04:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

If you remove it with your air tool, you will still need to block the flywheel in order to apply 195ft/lbs to the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt.

Hmmm, you're right of course. Hadn't thought that far ahead. Back to removing the starter. Gettin that one back bolt out is a nightmare.

Thanks

Quint · 03-17-2009, 10:01 AM

Err i just got a 3/4 socket, a power bar, put the car into 5th pulled handbrake on hard, applied brakes hard and heaved away. (someone else was in the car obviously)

Popped off like a cork.

also, with the rattle gun you wouldn't need to block the flywheel as they don't provide constant load rather a jolting action (think twisting left and right constantly) to crack nuts off.

NOTE: have a ceramic clutch so maybe a normal one would slip, but i doubt it.

ddmcse · 03-17-2009, 11:27 AM

getting the pulley off can be done , getting the pulley back on and tight better be done right or you'll wreck the key on the crank shaft over time with little warning . rut roh

EV-ONE · 03-17-2009, 11:35 AM

there's really only 1 moving part in an electric motor . imagine that .

no BHG's

Paul_NJ · 03-18-2009, 03:15 AM

Has anyone ever made up their own SST to hold the crank pulley while breaking the nut? Seems like you could make up a steel disk, drill 2 holes to match the threaded holes in the pulley, and a larger hole in the center to pass thru the 17mm? socket to the crank nut, then weld a short stub of 2"? pipe to it, after milling a couple flats on the end of the stub. I've got a big old 2 inch combination wrench to hold the flats while passing a deep socket on a breaker bar thru to the pulley bolt. Probably wouldn't take more time to make it than getting that ^%#@* starter off and then back on.

Just wondering . . .

Bill UK · 03-18-2009, 08:11 PM

I think we need something like this Paul; a member on the UK Supra forum made this. I'm hoping to measure up my pulley this weekend to get a few dimensions to start fabricating one. I'll keep you posted as soon as I have some accurate dimensions, especially the 8mm threaded hole pitches.

Bill UK · 03-18-2009, 09:01 PM

This is one of the main dimensions I need to find out.

03-15-2009, 01:52 PM	#1
Paul_NJ Intake Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Jersey Posts: 36	Crank Pulley Removal . . . again I'm on 135,000 miles with an original timing belt, so while I'll pulling things apart to replace the oil seals on top, I thought I'd break the "if it isn't broke . . ." rule. I searched and found a helpful thread several years ago discussing how to get the crank pulley off, debating the pros and cons of the "starter bump method" vs the "block the flywheel" method. Neither excites me much. What I wish to avoid most is removing the starter. Unhappy memories. I've got a pretty strong 3/4" drive air impact wrench. Has anyone had success getting the nut off that way? I'd rather pull the radiator, if necessairy, that that lousy starter. Then again maybe I should stick to the "if it isn't broke . . ." rule.

03-17-2009, 10:01 AM	#5
Quint Intake Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: New Zealand Posts: 32	Err i just got a 3/4 socket, a power bar, put the car into 5th pulled handbrake on hard, applied brakes hard and heaved away. (someone else was in the car obviously) Popped off like a cork. also, with the rattle gun you wouldn't need to block the flywheel as they don't provide constant load rather a jolting action (think twisting left and right constantly) to crack nuts off. NOTE: have a ceramic clutch so maybe a normal one would slip, but i doubt it. Last edited by Quint; 03-17-2009 at 10:04 AM.

03-17-2009, 11:27 AM	#6
ddmcse 500whp yet? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT U.S.A. Posts: 966	getting the pulley off can be done , getting the pulley back on and tight better be done right or you'll wreck the key on the crank shaft over time with little warning . rut roh __________________ 300+ RW HP Dyno run, jdm,mod turbo,3"exh,electfan,greddyboost Blown HeadGasket info My Supra KiXGaS

03-17-2009, 11:35 AM	#7
EV-ONE Stock Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: CT Posts: 9	there's really only 1 moving part in an electric motor . imagine that . no BHG's __________________ Electric Supra Conversion

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03-15-2009, 11:34 PM	#2
skadaloz 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: sumwhea in PA Posts: 60	you could use the 3/4 inch impact gun...some people like to used the electric 3/4 inch impact gun....but use what you have and start from there

03-16-2009, 04:31 PM	#3
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	If you remove it with your air tool, you will still need to block the flywheel in order to apply 195ft/lbs to the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt.

03-18-2009, 03:15 AM	#8
Paul_NJ Intake Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Jersey Posts: 36	Has anyone ever made up their own SST to hold the crank pulley while breaking the nut? Seems like you could make up a steel disk, drill 2 holes to match the threaded holes in the pulley, and a larger hole in the center to pass thru the 17mm? socket to the crank nut, then weld a short stub of 2"? pipe to it, after milling a couple flats on the end of the stub. I've got a big old 2 inch combination wrench to hold the flats while passing a deep socket on a breaker bar thru to the pulley bolt. Probably wouldn't take more time to make it than getting that ^%#@* starter off and then back on. Just wondering . . .

03-18-2009, 08:11 PM	#9
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	I think we need something like this Paul; a member on the UK Supra forum made this. I'm hoping to measure up my pulley this weekend to get a few dimensions to start fabricating one. I'll keep you posted as soon as I have some accurate dimensions, especially the 8mm threaded hole pitches.

03-18-2009, 09:01 PM	#10
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	This is one of the main dimensions I need to find out.