replacing the head and headgasket

skadaloz · 04-12-2009, 04:16 PM

well since the exhaust studs on head decided to strip and blew the turbo manifold gasket off...ive decided to replace the head along w/ the headgasket...
had a little problem with the taking the head off b/c of the arp head studs, so i took 4 arp studs out from the back of the motor and still couldn't get it off so i tried to take out 2 more but i snap my allen socket...i was using 5mm allen socket, it didnt fit tight but 6mm was too big..

so does anyone know what the exact size for the ARP head stud for the 7mgte and the torque spec of the stud to the block and the nut torque?

i eventually got the head off and found out that it has a metal head gasket..it had like 4-5 layers and was pretty thick, like 3mm thick...so i was wondering if whoever did the head gasket b4, did it correctly b/c oil was leaking from the head gasket to the block and it was burning coolant...

i have my new/used head mill .010" , lapped the valves and changed the valve stem seals

i have my fel-pro head gasket set...and just waiting until i prep the block from oil/grease

does anyone have problems w/ the exhaust studs stripping b/c my new/used head has a few thats stripped? if you do tell me how you guys fixed it b/c i was thinking of retaping it to a bigger bolt/stud size

if anyone could answer my questions thats in BOLD would b greatly appreciated

skadaloz · 04-13-2009, 12:41 AM

bump....no one???

Bill UK · 04-13-2009, 12:17 PM

The Allen socket is 5mm

According to the instruction sheet that came with mine, see below:
With the ARP moly lube, the final torque should be 80ft/lbs.
With motor oil, ARP recommends 120ft/lbs with 30wt oil. However, ARP recommends using their moly lube, not motor oil, due to "higher friction on the studs as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of the fasteners when motor oil (or low quality lubricant) is used."

The normal exhaust stud stops short of the hole depth by about 3/8 inch, some owner’s have used M10 x 1.25mm threaded rod and cut them to length to gain about 5 more threads in the hole.
I Heli-Coild mine, bit hesitant when it came to tightening up the nut though, I've had a few on previous heads pull out.

IHateHacks · 04-13-2009, 01:34 PM

7M cylinder heads are made out of some of the softest aluminum alloy I've ever seen used in an automotive application.

Helicoil is the way to fix stripped exhaust manifold stud holes, but I've also had one of my helicoils pull out as well.

Try using moly or antiseize on new exhaust manifold studs and nuts with a 20% reduction in torque.

skadaloz · 04-13-2009, 11:54 PM

koo thanks guys...ill give it a shot

04-12-2009, 04:16 PM	#1
skadaloz 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: sumwhea in PA Posts: 60	replacing the head and headgasket well since the exhaust studs on head decided to strip and blew the turbo manifold gasket off...ive decided to replace the head along w/ the headgasket... had a little problem with the taking the head off b/c of the arp head studs, so i took 4 arp studs out from the back of the motor and still couldn't get it off so i tried to take out 2 more but i snap my allen socket...i was using 5mm allen socket, it didnt fit tight but 6mm was too big.. so does anyone know what the exact size for the ARP head stud for the 7mgte and the torque spec of the stud to the block and the nut torque? i eventually got the head off and found out that it has a metal head gasket..it had like 4-5 layers and was pretty thick, like 3mm thick...so i was wondering if whoever did the head gasket b4, did it correctly b/c oil was leaking from the head gasket to the block and it was burning coolant... i have my new/used head mill .010" , lapped the valves and changed the valve stem seals i have my fel-pro head gasket set...and just waiting until i prep the block from oil/grease does anyone have problems w/ the exhaust studs stripping b/c my new/used head has a few thats stripped? if you do tell me how you guys fixed it b/c i was thinking of retaping it to a bigger bolt/stud size if anyone could answer my questions thats in BOLD would b greatly appreciated

04-13-2009, 12:17 PM	#3
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	The Allen socket is 5mm According to the instruction sheet that came with mine, see below: With the ARP moly lube, the final torque should be 80ft/lbs. With motor oil, ARP recommends 120ft/lbs with 30wt oil. However, ARP recommends using their moly lube, not motor oil, due to "higher friction on the studs as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of the fasteners when motor oil (or low quality lubricant) is used." The normal exhaust stud stops short of the hole depth by about 3/8 inch, some owner’s have used M10 x 1.25mm threaded rod and cut them to length to gain about 5 more threads in the hole. I Heli-Coild mine, bit hesitant when it came to tightening up the nut though, I've had a few on previous heads pull out. Last edited by Bill UK; 04-13-2009 at 12:58 PM.

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04-13-2009, 12:41 AM	#2
skadaloz 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: sumwhea in PA Posts: 60	bump....no one???

04-13-2009, 01:34 PM	#4
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	7M cylinder heads are made out of some of the softest aluminum alloy I've ever seen used in an automotive application. Helicoil is the way to fix stripped exhaust manifold stud holes, but I've also had one of my helicoils pull out as well. Try using moly or antiseize on new exhaust manifold studs and nuts with a 20% reduction in torque.

04-13-2009, 11:54 PM	#5
skadaloz 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: sumwhea in PA Posts: 60	koo thanks guys...ill give it a shot