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#1 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 194
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damn lol. How did u prep the block? i'm gonna be using a stock gasket. should i used a scraper on it already but it seems like there's still alot of material.. and i dont wanna scratch the surface
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#2 |
12psi boost
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sacramento, Ca
Posts: 373
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yeah it was a pain in the ass for me. Seemed like that shit would never come off. I tried scraping but was getting fed up with it not really working. So i got a cloth scrubby pad thingy for a grinder and went to town.. i figured it was something i could bend with my finger it couldn't possibly tear up my block to bad :P in some spots it worked great and got rid of the gasket. In other spots it just smoothed the gasket out and made it harder to get off lol. Just make sure you take a straight edge to it all when you get it cleaned and make sure it's within the guidelines and you'll be alright.
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#3 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 194
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also i've read in a different post that even after my hg job.. i might run into rod knock very soon? i had milky oil :S soo the oil was contaminated with coolant. before the job i didnt have any knocking though.
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#4 |
12psi boost
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sacramento, Ca
Posts: 373
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yeah i didn't have any knock either. But 5 months down the line, my bearings were slipping and sure enough now my Supra is not working. I'm sure that's not super common but it happens.
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#5 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 194
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Was everything running fine after the gasket job? how about just before the engine siezed? how's u know ur bearings wear slipping? sorry for all the questions.. but now i'm having second thoughts of keeping my supra after my hg job.
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#6 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Denver
Posts: 104
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Remember to use some APR bolt or studs when doing a hg it seems to help out as far as ensuring you get an even better seal from the new hg.
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#7 | |
12psi boost
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sacramento, Ca
Posts: 373
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![]() Quote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Td0EgRBSrJM It ran fine up to that point. yeah, I used ARP and they worked great, made me feel comfortable torquing them as high as they needed to be. I'll recommend them. |
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#8 |
12psi boost
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Georgia
Posts: 359
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Hey Kev, you'll want to REALLY keep an eye and an ear out for evil noises from the bottom of your engine. Depending on how long you drove it with water and anti-freeze getting into the oil you could have some real damage to the bearing surfaces down there, crank and/or rods. If you're not interested in dropping the oil pan and checking your bearings you at least need to make SURE you run good clean oil in that engine, with one extra quart thrown in for good measure (won't hurt your engine at all, consider it insurance).
Change the oil before you crank the engine after your repairs with a good 30w HD oil and filter. Play around in the dumped oil and see if you find any discernable metal shaving or (worse) chunks in it. Pull your EFI fuse and turn the engine over until you get good oil pressure. Then put the fuse back in and crank her up. Run her only a day or so (and NOT hard driving, don't push the engine yet) then change the oil and filter again to make sure you've got all the garbage out of the block. Change the oil again after a couple of weeks, again keeping an eye out for visible metal shavings in the oil. Might not change anything in the end, but that'll help reduce the chance of RK showing up right after the HG replacement. Also, if the engine overheated at all you'll want to have the head checked to be sure it isn't warped and have it shaved if it is. Otherwise your new HG will be a complete waste of time, money, and effort as it will blow in no time flat. Last edited by mirage83; 06-24-2009 at 07:30 PM. |
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