Originally Posted by oregonjoe (Post 73248)

Put the fuel pump fuse back in and connected the spark coil. Set the distributor to half way and shut the door.

Key in – turn, it starts.

OIL pressure gauge climbs up to normal pressure. Enough for the night.

Originally Posted by jcastro (Post 73317)

dam that came out realy nice man congrats how long did it take u n i bet ur happy ass hell

Originally Posted by oregonjoe (Post 72307)

I’ve taken the head and block to the shop to have them cleaned up and inspected. The head and valves looked good for 20 years of use.

The good news on the block is no cracks after the magnetic test – so its just a hone on the cylinders and good to go. The bad news is the shop wants $500 to do a valve job on the head – even without replacing any valves. Claim the 24 valves takes a lot of labor and that OHC need to be ground to adjust!

Attachment 2254

So – I took the head back to do a little porting and polish. The head had some casting marks and ridges from 20 years ago. Since I bought the car I have learned a thing or two about engines. One of which is that they are massed produced from casting molds. These molds are not all created equal and there can many flaws that are left as is in production. Some flaws include sharp ridges from casting seams and defects in the individual molds. Other are sharp angles from the machining process after the castings are poured. In production - they are all ignored.

Attachment 2255

The cylinder chambers in the head have some sharp edges that can collect heat and cause preignition so I ground them off to smooth the transitions out the valve ports. Careful to not touch the valve seats.

Attachment 2256

I focused on the exhaust ports and smoothed out the walls and take out any burrs and casting ridges. Just a little touch up on the intake side to remove any large defects as I understand its better to leave the “sandpaper” effect on the walls.

Attachment 2257

Originally Posted by oregonjoe (Post 75277)

No - head was in shop for cleaning and resurface then I took it back once all the valves were removed to do the porting. Then - back to the shop to have the valve seats done, valves installed, and then adjusted with shims. Total machine cost for the head was $450.

You want tot do the porting before the valve seats are done so you don't mess up the seats. Critical since they determine adjustment and timing.

If you really want to do it right and can afford the time - take both head and block to machine shop so both surfaces can be done clean.

Then new head gasket will be fine - remember I used studs and tourqued down to 90 ft-lbs.

Originally Posted by cvbikeguy (Post 75304)

sorry one more questions. im about to take my head off and i cant get the head bolts off. also im strippiing out the hex bolts trying to do so. any advice?

Originally Posted by cre (Post 75310)

When you remove the head bolts you need to clean out any and all oil in the hole and any debris which may have collected there; Failure to do so may prevent the allen bit from entering the opening completely.

If you cannot get a bolt out all the way using constant steady pressure AND the socket is in all the way you can try: Pounding downward on the head of the bolt a few times with a rubber mallet; Use a breaker bar and while you hold it FIRMLY in place have someone tap the end of the handle several timed with a hammer; AND, spray the area thoroughly with a GOOD penetrating oil (WD-40 does not count as a good penetrant).

As for the bolts you've already stripped, go to the hardware store and try to find an allen bit or regular allen wrench that's just a *tiny* bit larger than yours, it'll most likely be an SAE size unless you've got a shop in the area which can order .5mm bits. Take it home and tap it in with a hammer... you know the drill from there. Some people have luck with easy outs; Grinding the head off the bolt usually results in some heavy gouges in the mating area directly under the bolt head and as such getting an accurate torque thereafter is unlikely without having the area machined.... not to mention all the debris you'll have to worry about flushing out of the block. Note: If all you can find that'll fit is a regular L shaped allen wrench you can just cut it off and slip it into a regular socket. ;)

If I think of anything else I'll let you know.


EDIT: Oh, and don't be afraid to use a LOT of penetrant... it's cheap enough. Soak the bolts, wait an hour, soak again, wait another hour, soak again.... repeat a often as you wish, then let it sit for a few hours before going at it again. When you do go at it again make sure the allen is going in all the way before you try to remove the bolt.

Originally Posted by cre (Post 75287)

With the vGauge don't plan on using the stock oil pressure sender... the sender itself is internally dampened not the stock gauge.

Originally Posted by oregonjoe (Post 73234)

Once the Intake is in place you can place the main wire harness on top and run the connections for the Starter, VAC switches, Transmission Switch, Knock Sensor, and EGR temp down through the runners.

Attachment 2369 Attachment 2370

The connectors are color coded so it’s not too hard to match them up. You can reach under and attach the Knock sensor and VAC Can connection under the runners.

Attachment 2371 Attachment 2372 Attachment 2373

Originally Posted by oregonjoe (Post 76846)

Maybe for a Auto Tran since mine was manual??

Originally Posted by cvbikeguy (Post 80441)

Lol did my arp's at 85