7MGE Engine rebuild

[oregonjoe]

Thanks Bill UK. I am going to pull it out and have another look - it dosn't seem right. The problm is it in between the Engine mount bracket so it not easy to get too.

[oregonjoe]

Installing the timing belt on a Supra is much easier then a 4-Runner. The manual says to install the crank sprocket, lower timing cover and crank damper in order to see where TDC for number one cylinder is but I preferred to get the belt on and set up the timing with them off so I can see what is going on.



Turns out that on the 90 Supra, all the marks are at 12 O’clock. Set both cam sprockets to 12 o’clock and the tab on the crank to 12 o’clock and you have it right.

Wrap the belt around the crank sprocket and up to the left around the oil pump sprocket, pull tight, then around both cams and the idler pulley. Double check the marks again because they will move as the belt goes on. I had to do this three times till they were correct. Now put the spring on the idler and give the crank a few spins to see if the marks still line up. Tighten the idler bolt to 35 ft-pounds and spin the crank again. Loosen the idler bolt, wedge a large screw driver in to tighten up the belt tension and retourque the idler bolt and your done.



Before I put the top timing cover on, I installed the distributor to get it set to Number 1 spark since I had the engine at TDC on the compression stroke.



Water pump went on next and I’m making progress.

[oregonjoe]

Originally Posted by Bill UK

The dipstick tube that’s protrudes into the sump was a very tight fit, the external tube that I think your referring to was very loose, I think there’s an O ring on the bottom of it, I just smeared some silicon sealant over the O ring a pushed it in, that was 2 years ago. No sign of a leak so far. If you are referring to the dipstick, then the only thing it could be is the rubber part at the top has shrunk slightly, there are products that will rejuvenate rubber seals to make them soft such as windscreen wipes etc, cant say I've ever used them though.

After reading your post again - I see waht you were saying. I was referring tot he external support tube - not he actual dipsick with level marks. Sounds like yours was very loose too? I tried some RTV but still seems to move around quite easily. It just that if I do have a problem once the engine is back together - it going to real had to get to it.

Is there some support clamp or somthing that keeps it from moving??

[Bill UK]

The 7M-GTE dipstick tube has a bracket which bolts onto the Turbo, not sure about the non turbo engine, I would have though it would be secured at some point, otherwise it would pull out when removing the dipstick.

[Bill UK]

Looks like the non-turbo engine has a dipstick tube that screw into the bock with no support bracket.

[oregonjoe]

Originally Posted by Bill UK

Looks like the non-turbo engine has a dipstick tube that screw into the bock with no support bracket.

Thanks for the hekp Bill UK

I agree, the turbo dipstick is different then the NA. The turbo appears to come in 2 parts and is press fit into Block? With a bracket to keep it from moving in or out so all you need is a O ring?

However, from this close-up of my NA dipstick –



it does not have any threads and does not have any way to be secured. It inserts to the second level but still fits pretty loose and moves around even with a good amount of RTV. So I am wondering is there is some other type of adhesive I should be using here as RTV alone can not keep it secured.



When I pulled it out - it was in there very tight.

[oregonjoe]

Ran into my first major mistake on the reassembly so far. I thought I could fit this U shape water pipe around the block and firewall with the head ON – NOPE! CAN”T BE DONE.



I am not going to take the head off after the 4+ hours in getting it on.

SO I cut the pipe in part that fits behind the head and put a piece of hose and clamps. Still pretty hard to secure the clamps behind the head but was only 30 minutes and not a head removal.



I point this out so anyone can know – install the water pipe before the head - it will be a lot easier.

[Blackdog]

oh wow thats a valuble tip right there haha well it all looks great so far. Hope it turns out good. Still can't get over how clean your block and head look!!



STICKY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[oregonjoe]

Putting together the Water manifold was straight forward. The various temp senders could only go in one location. Be careful to start both connection hoses before you slide the housing on the studs or you will not get them on afterwards and have to take it off and start over.



Used RTV on all the hose connections after cleaning with Brake Cleaner

[oregonjoe]

Spent a week working on the drivers side wires and hoses. It was mess to figure out so I have documented my findings so they be of assistance in the future.



The key problem is that several lines have to be run though the intake runners before the manifold is installed. Also, there are several things to connect before the manifold is placed.



First off is the Block ground from the battery. It is singly attached to the block next to the lower Air Compressor bracket mount.

Next is the bracket for the Fuel Return hose which is attached to the block in the hole for the old fuel pump. Then mount the Vacuum canister with VAC Switch.



Before installing the Intake runner, you will need to route several lines through the runners BEFORE placing the intake on the head. Run the supply and return fuel lines, IAC Hose from the manifold, and water bypass hose through the runner.