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#1 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 167
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Thanks for the advice, I'll be checking the distributor when I get home. A very similar thought even crossed my mind last night when I was reminded of an ex that had a rotor that would always slip out inside the cap.. her car would sputter and stall out, but she'd never be able to start her back up... thus I dismissed it.. But you make much sense, if that cap is turned and that rotor isn't firing the cylinders correctly, I might be able to rough idle, but she wouldn't be street worthy... which seems to be the case. Thanks again, will post results later this evening.
edit: Sux not having net all weekend... tried to tow her up to autozone and make use of their diagnostic systems... but once we got there, was told it's only done on cars from '96 to current. Joy... so one guy comes out to take a look, at this time she'll start up and idle about 200-300 rpm... FOT doesn't seem to make a difference, so the guy blames the TPS. After getting a new TPS for $105, install it, no fix. ![]() Last edited by Krem; 09-21-2009 at 06:35 PM. |
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#2 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 167
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Update:
Still broke, and dead in my parking lot... Distributor and cap were both stationary and clean... rotor was good, even tested for spark w/ screwdriver and it's gettin it.. The car, however, seems to be degrading... Before I'd be able to at least get her to idle just above stalling out all on her own.. she'd run at a couple hundred RPMs and die out in about 8-10 seconds... if I tried starting her again after that, I'd have problems keeping her running... Now I can't get her to start her idle even tho she comes soo close. She still sounds strong when turning the engine over, but there's just no umpf there... going FoT makes absolutely NO difference at all now what so ever.. Sooo... I'm actually leaning towards fuel system? The pump kinda reminds me of what a dead battery does where if you leave your camera off for a couple hours, you can come back and snap one or two more pictures.. Also, I've swapped out the TPS, with no luck... so I'm thinking the pump is pushing whatever fuel it can, but it's still not enough to open my injectors... Does this sound probable? Anything I should check before filter and pump? I checked the fuse and that seems good... which makes sense cause the pump does try to work... it just fizzles out (or so I think) |
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#3 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Denver
Posts: 104
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I would check your plugs, ignition coil, ignitor, and also, try a possiblity of clogged injectors as well, before fuel pump and filter they are a pain to get to since they are located in the gas tank it's self and require you to drop it. Let us know if these things don't work.
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Cold Air Intake MIZU Aluminum Radiator Ralco RZ Underdrive Pulley NGK Wires and Plugs Hi Flow CAT MR Muffler Super Coil Techna Fit Brake lines Clear Corner Turn Signal Lens Projector Head Lights Evo Fog Lights Evo Body Kit Soon ---> 3'' Exhaust ![]() |
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#4 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Denver
Posts: 104
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I was also just now thinking that it could be a problem with your O2 sensor, MAF sensor, and or vaccum lines. I had low idle and rough running when I had a vaccum leak between my intake and MAF sensor.
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Cold Air Intake MIZU Aluminum Radiator Ralco RZ Underdrive Pulley NGK Wires and Plugs Hi Flow CAT MR Muffler Super Coil Techna Fit Brake lines Clear Corner Turn Signal Lens Projector Head Lights Evo Fog Lights Evo Body Kit Soon ---> 3'' Exhaust ![]() |
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#5 |
Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Billings, Montana
Posts: 1,034
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You can check the fuel pump operation with a paper clip in the diagnostic box under the hood. Connect the "PB" (positive battery) terminal with the "FP" (fuel pump) terminal. You should have gas rushing to your fuel rail if your pump is good.
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1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels |
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#6 |
Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Billings, Montana
Posts: 1,034
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Sorry, I've been trying to remember which it is as I don't have access to my car right now... It either says "pB" or "+B" for the positive battery terminal
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1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels |
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#7 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 167
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Thanks for the inputs... I'll give the fuel pump diagnotics idea a try, but mainly cause I feel if it were MAF, o2 sensor, ignition coil or ignitor, the car would stay level at the same RPM.. but I'm sure I don't know what I'm talking about here... all I can do is apply logic to my thought process as I lack mechanical expertise.
I keep hearing the fuel tank is in the trunk, and I've also heard it's accessible from the trunk... in this img, what is the thing in the hole, covered by the small plate w/ 3 screws? I've got two plugs to it... so I thought it has better chance of being a pump than a filter... but for all I know, it could just be the float sensor.. Finally, when I try that diag trick... is it safe to just plug the paper clip directly? or do I need to unplug the battery, connect, replug to test and then d/c battery before I remove pin? Tho, I guess I shouldn't ask at all as it's never wrong to be safe and cautious... Also, how will I know if there's fuel flowing or not? I doubt I'll see anything, I can't even visually find my fuel rail yet even.. should I be hearing the gas flowing? or is this something I have to pull a line and drop into a bucket for? |
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#8 |
Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Billings, Montana
Posts: 1,034
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Never messed with the fuel tank, so I can't help you there.
You can insert the paperclip with everything connected, all your doing is putting power to the fuel pump circuit (don't worry, it's a low power circuit; won't even spark or anything). You should hear fluid flowing around your intake manifold, as your fuel rail is underneath the part of the intake where the "Y" pipe bolts to the rest of the intake manifold. You can also have somebody listen by the fuel door with the cap off and see if they hear a humming sound when the jumper wire (paperclip) is connected.
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1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels |
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