86.5 7MGE Problems

[AAPSuprabuilder]

Before you re-assemble everything, how is your clutch for your fan? it should be very tight. It should not spin super easy and if you spin it with your hand there should be a lot of resistance. Otherwise if its easy to spin, you wont have your fan cooling as well as it should be. The clutches are around $40 if you need to get one replaced.

[Krem]

Originally Posted by AAPSuprabuilder

Before you re-assemble everything, how is your clutch for your fan? it should be very tight. It should not spin super easy and if you spin it with your hand there should be a lot of resistance. Otherwise if its easy to spin, you wont have your fan cooling as well as it should be. The clutches are around $40 if you need to get one replaced.

Sweet how it pays to read threads not yet related to issues I'm having... that's good to know, ty

[AAPSuprabuilder]

also remember to look between your radiator and ac condenser that no animal has made a nest there to help for cooling, its hard to see sometimes, the back of your radiator looks like its deteriorating.

[Tbredd7]

Originally Posted by 86.5 7MGE

Thanks for the input I'll look into that, I was wanting to get an aluminum radiator any ways now I might have a reason to get it earlier than anticipated

Trust me upgrading to the aluminum radiator is great. I would recommend getting a 3 row radiator with some electric fans to cool it. Thats what I did when I bought the car because the radiator was messed up. That thing cools down so fucking fast.

[Krem]

I'm looking to do this fix too, since I live in vegas and w/o a fan shroud on the crank fan, I'm at high risk for over heating next summer. Luckily that means I have time to save and do homework on the project. However, I still have come across some questions I'm hoping someone can answer for me rather than me asking the manufacturer themselves.

I have a 7mge that was manual, is now automatic... Looking into:
Aluminum Radiator and Aluminum Dual Fan Shroud

However, I noticed that the radiator says 86-92 manual. Why's the transmission type make a difference? Are the radiators different specs/sizes? Since I can't find any aluminum radiators for an automatic, I have to think it doesn't matter... but if it didn't matter, why do they specify manual? Same applies to the fan shroud since that's the radiator it'd best mount up to...

Am I SOL cause I have an automatic? maybe stuck with using Elec. fan mounted to radiator? or can I do this upgrade on the auto? Further more, if I mount the single fan to my existing radiator or upgrade the radiator and throw in the dual elec. fan shroud assembly, do I pull the fan off the crank? or does that stay for weight balance?

[86.5 7MGE]

Originally Posted by Krem

I'm looking to do this fix too, since I live in vegas and w/o a fan shroud on the crank fan, I'm at high risk for over heating next summer. Luckily that means I have time to save and do homework on the project. However, I still have come across some questions I'm hoping someone can answer for me rather than me asking the manufacturer themselves.

I have a 7mge that was manual, is now automatic... Looking into:
Aluminum Radiator and Aluminum Dual Fan Shroud

However, I noticed that the radiator says 86-92 manual. Why's the transmission type make a difference? Are the radiators different specs/sizes? Since I can't find any aluminum radiators for an automatic, I have to think it doesn't matter... but if it didn't matter, why do they specify manual? Same applies to the fan shroud since that's the radiator it'd best mount up to...

Am I SOL cause I have an automatic? maybe stuck with using Elec. fan mounted to radiator? or can I do this upgrade on the auto? Further more, if I mount the single fan to my existing radiator or upgrade the radiator and throw in the dual elec. fan shroud assembly, do I pull the fan off the crank? or does that stay for weight balance?

First of all you definitely want to pull the manual fan off if you put electric ones on because that's going to more problems than solutions and plus I don't think you could get the dual fans on without pulling the clutch fan off. The difference between the auto and manual radiators is that the automatic radiator has transmission coolant line connections which you need versus the manual which doesn't have any use for them.

[86.5 7MGE]

Originally Posted by oregonjoe

Check your plugs - if they look like coolant or have deposits its a BHG - Start with NO 6 as that is the most common - All plugs should be dry and light tan. Mine ran rough after sitting overnight and was burning coolant same on acceleration

I didn't find coolant but I did find oil...I have already replaced my No 3 valve cover with O Ring Gaskets covered in RTV, and they are not leaking so that means it's coming from inside. All 6 of my plugs were covered completely in oil
And on top of all of this my car won't even start now that I got the water pump back on and coolant back in and new plugs. I'm thinking it's possible that I might have messed up my timing since the pulleys were spinning while I was trying to get the fan off.

[86.5 7MGE]

Also, I found black residue in my intake manifold when I was changing out my plugs.

[cre]

You don't get WET oil on spark plugs unless it's coming from outside the engine... in the 7M's case, valve cover seals and the three galley cover bolts are the only place it'll come from.

The oil inside the plenum is a side effect of a functional PCV system. Excessive amounts may point to a problem with blowby due to worn rings, a leak down test would tell you what shape the rings are in.



Automatic radiators had a small oil cooler for the transmission fluid. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=1603&P=3



Pitting around water jackets is the result of the wrong type of coolant being used... it's due to a dielectric reaction. Thoroughly fluch your cooling system and switch to Toyota's red coolant to prevent further damage. Supposedly, the newer green coolant formulas are better at preventing this type of corrosion, but if you're already seen signs of damage I'd switch coolant soon.

NOTE: You MUST thoroughly flush the coolant system out before changing from one type of coolant to another. Failure to do so could result in emulsification.

[Krem]

Originally Posted by 86.5 7MGE

First of all you definitely want to pull the manual fan off if you put electric ones on because that's going to more problems than solutions and plus I don't think you could get the dual fans on without pulling the clutch fan off. The difference between the auto and manual radiators is that the automatic radiator has transmission coolant line connections which you need versus the manual which doesn't have any use for them.

Ah, I was wondering that... and that actually concerns me... since the car was a manual and an auto was thrown in... I'd have to guess that I have no transmission fluid cooling going on... :\ Also, you confirmed my suspicion about the crank fan coming off... didn't look like there would be enough clearance anyways... I'm just wondering if it can come off at the crank, or if I need to leave the clutch assembly attached to balance weight somewhere along the lines.. granted it's not much weight to be balanced, but spinning that fast, the smallest offset could throw the thing into a sloppy rotation.. much like a washing machine with an uneven load? Eh, that's my logic... which is why I ask questions, I know I'm not a mechanic, but I want to get used to my mk3 rather than being concerned about what every pop and ping I hear might be. Also hoping this concern will subside the longer I drive the car in good running condition... having it die after two weeks of owning it doesn't exactly support a positive confidence in reliability..