Putting JDM engine in!!! :D

[cre]

Originally Posted by jvginpdx

Oop......I stand corrected.

Thanks CRE....

<snobbish, royalty voice> You are forgiven.... </snobbish, royalty voice>

[89suprat]

hey so i've had a jdm engine installed by a motor shop here in ottawa and i have some interesting questions, first of the car is a 89(newer style) but the engine that i acquired is from a 91 auto jdm, now it's been running fine until i decided to check up on my vacuum lines, for sum reason my bvsv(whatever that is) is not on my thermostat housing but rather an electronical device is in it's place? all pictures i have ever seen indicate there should be some vacuum lines there, the company custom build a wiring harness for me as it was chopped near the block. but i still have the 89 ecu in the car and as mentioned you guys were talking about the different impedence injectors on each model, is there anyway i can check if my setup is ok. thanks for your time

[cre]

The JDM 7M's have all the same equipment except they do not have the EGR system (they should have kept it as it creates lower combustion temps and thus you can apply higher boost and advance the timing even further without knock!) and I believe the oil pressure sender is different. If you don't have the BVSV or charcoal canister I highly recommend you repair/restore that system. It serves a few purposes, the pressure regulation helps prevent the fuel pump from caviating (deteriorating) and also from working harder than it needs to.

The sensor locations didn't really change just one spot was added.

Here are most of the ventilation and vacuum hoses; the only ones you probably aren't going to have are the couple used for the EGR system.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=1201&P=2
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=1708&P=3
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=7701&P=2


Heater VSV and Control Valve:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=8717&P=1


EGR; if your EGR system is present you'll see these components and you'll find the vacuum lines in the first diagram above.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=2501&P=1


If your sensors are in different locations you need to make sure they're all at least on the correct side of the thermostat.


The injector impedence is an N/A only thing... unless you're putting N/A injectors in a GTE it has nothing to do with a GTE their injectors were the same. NOTE: If you are, for some bizarre reason, wanting to install N/A injectors in a GTE you need the YELLOW topped (see: low impedance) injectors.

Post some pictures of the things you have questions about and I'll see if I can be of assistance.

[89suprat]

thanks for some of those helpful hints, well all my vacuum lines are hooked up except for in the picture you can see that i dont have a bvsv with two vacuum ports, instead rather it has an electrical plug. the vacuum line has simply been directed to the charcoal canister from the port on the metal line coming out parallel to the intake. could this possibly be because it's a 91 engine? and also i haven't tested the wires but i assume they are operational even considering im using a stock ecu. and i apologize if it's a fuzzy picture shity camera.

[89suprat]

also just to note its near the bottom left corner. and ive have the vacuum line unhooked atm. but not to deviate from that too much my turbo shaft snapped leaving the turbine i think(whatever the exhaust side is) freely bobbing around making a wicked noise. basically the internals exploded sending most of my oil and coolant into the exhaust. so far i have rerouted the coolant lines into each other and connected my maf sensor inline to the throttle body directly. it is all running very well except for a minor leak from putting a custom made elbow to route the oil back to the pan. i can beef it up with bigger parts but what i wanted to know is would it be bad if i blocked the turbo oil lines off with a plate. i havent done it cause i figured it would mess up oil delivery and pressure.

[cre]

The thermostat neck you have installed apperas to be either a pre89 or N/A version (I can't remember which vehicles those were for... The were on ALL 89+ GTEs though, I know that to be a fact); it's hard to tell for sure.. crap angle cut it off i the pic. If so it has only two ports and thus those idiots saw fit to simply delete the BVSV... it's not the cheapest part and it is essential. Running it off straight vacuum will increase the wear of the fuel pump's impellers.

The turbo's oil supply may be capped, plug the drain too. The coolant line MUST continue, don't cap it. Gut the internals of the turbo if you're going to be driving like this for a while, if any small bits were to get sucked into the intake you can do MAJOR damage in less than one second. Fortunately the IC will act as a filter to a digree, but you need to gut the turbo and thoroughly flush the IC and intake piping asap.

[89suprat]

wow thanks for the info, just a little question so i understand on my part(i'm a little slow) so when i get a better pic to show you what i have, does the bvsv simply mount ontop of this coolant sensor? as my friends supra does not have this electrical sensor but does have the bvsv. and for the fortunate part he's got 4 parts cars available to me so that should not be a problem getting it. good news on the turbo conversion then i'll post pics of my setup but the turbo is completely gutted with the exhaust external housing left, using the big clamp with a steel plate i managed to block if off perfectly coolant still flows, inlet to outlet now and as for oil i guess i need a pretty thick blockoff plate? i'm using the thickness of two road signs worth of metal(don't have a tape measure) would it also be advisable to keep the revs down whille driving or can the ecu account for timing and spark considering there is no more boost involved?

[cre]

There is no electrical sensor in that location... p e r i o d. K?

Get a decent photo of all the sensors on that thermostat tower (both sides) and we'll see if we can't figure out what they were thinking and what needs to be fixed.

To you have any aftermarket gauges or a turbo timer with a temp sensor?

With the block off plate you want something at least 1/8" (3mm) thick, preferably 1/4" thick. Take the Oil line in to a parts store and look among the Chevy block off plates.. there should be something close enough; You may need to oval out the holes a bit to get it over the studs on your engine, but it'll work fine. USE A GASKET!!!!

When you press the gas pedal more than 70% the ECU will go into closed loop... it's not reading the O2 sensor at this point and is going to be pretty rich. It's still measuring airflow though, so for the most part it should be alright. I'd avoid pounding on it too much though. If you run rich too much you'll foul the O2 sensor and foul and clog the cat. You may see engine error codes though which may throw you into "limp mode" due to the unexpected airflow drop at certain throttle levels and RPMs. Codes 25, 26 and 34 are the ones to watch for if the car suddenly stops responding beyond 2500 - 3000RPM and runs richer than hell. In this case reset the ECU (by pulling the EFI fuse for 10 seconds) and start driving like a granny.

[dannydavi]

Great discussion, thanks guys. A side note whatever car they took this out of also had a different oil pan :s cause i got the engine in and that shit wouldnt fit, took it back out and realized the pans were totally different, so finally got the old pump and pan on and dropped it in today, have all the transmission and drive shaft yada hooked up, wondering what the torque specs are for the engine mounts?? i have the cygnus link and i have it on pdf but cant find what the torque specs are for that, dont know how much it matters i'm thinking just make pretty tight.. but if there is a spec to abide by, anyone know it?

[cre]

If the oil pan and pickup were off center then they're from a Cressida. I thought I covered that... yup, see post #3.

Try this for the torque specs... I'll see if I have anything else saved on my hard drive.