You said it was a weekend toy, so I honestly am not concerned about its longevity... it's the daily drivers which see the most wear. I'm not ragging on you in your posts... just making sure others know that your build is not necessarily what's best for their purposes and why.

No offense to your post there.... but I strongly disagree ! If the block off plates are installed correctly with a coated cometic gasket. they will never leak. And there are 2 plates to install not just one. As far as the warm up or power at Wot, no problem when running stand alone fuel management. and if your exhaust is big enough, heating up is not an issue. If you convert your pulley fan to electric fan it will stay alot cooler. FMIC will help too.

You need to reread this whole thread... We were talking about the EGR actuator leaking... dunno how you got that actuator = block off. Again, no idea what the hell you're talking about with warm up and WOT... you're lost sir.

Oh, and electric fans don't cool the gasses IN the intake... sheesh. Sleeping at the wheel?

my buddy has a 7mgte swapped into a 88 toyota pick up with the same block off plate now for about 6mons and never got one leak so far! its also driven everyday! but yeah it would suck if it started to leak because its not ez to get back there!

Whoo, cre after reading how this thread's developed I have to agree that EGR is not as widely understood as I thought & anyone who's in doubt would do well to read your posts.

What I was saying about disconnecting the actuator pipe before a failure occurs I stand by though (not that I'm recommending it for the Supra, in fact bearing in mind the 7M's headgasket appetite, I'd say it's a rather bad idea for a regular driver) just as a general "prevention is better than cure" solution on vehicles that can be run without failing emissions, especially diesels on which the EGR more readily fails due to particulate content in the exhaust), in my experience the majority of EGR leaks are caused by a dirty & sticking valve or actuator & not by any mechanical failure.

I suppose I'm just a bit lazy where a daily plodder of a diesel like the pajero's concerned & really the advice should be "if it's broke DO fix it" for any vehicle, but like many I'm guilty of just running something like that as it is, so long as it passes emissions. Incidentally, when I showed the guy that's having the Pajero from me I hooked the EGR back up & it still works! Anyway that's enough rambling from me, back onto supra EGRs...

Personally, I would swap in a JDM ECU if running without the EGR. The differences in the open loop operation may be significant enough to have a decent effect on longevity... over a couple years I wouldn't expect to see much but over the next 20, maybe. The difference in the EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) on a USDM with EGR and then with it removed (but still running the USDM ECU) are vastly different; I've seen studies with logs showing anything from 50°F up to 200°F in increased exhaust gas temperatures (not Supra specific, but it should serve as ample warning)... think about how much hotter it is in the cylinder when you reach the hottest part of the burn.

On most newer vehicles which monitor EGT it is usually required that you remove or recalibrate the EGT sensor to present the ECU with false readings which match the specified. This is done by either replacing the sensor with a specific value of resistor, adding a resistor in series with the sensor (if the sensor uses a NTC type thermistor) or the replacement with an alternate sensor which operates on a different scale (necessary with PTC type sensors). Older vehicles the resistor replacement is usually fine as the ECU doesn't care if the signal is static; newer vehicle ECUs often check the readings of the sensor against an actual table in which case simply swapping in a resistor is not an option. These sensor readings are used to determine the best adjustments for cooler temperatures with minimal power loss.

Many newer vehicles *appear* not use EGR systems. This is due to new methods of introducing those same inert gasses and better ways of controlling them such as monitoring exhaust temps and using variable valve timing to allow exhaust to flow back into or remain in the cylinder on the exhaust stroke or immediately thereafter... and guess what, newer JDM vehicles do employ these methods (probably more due to economy benefits than emissions but they both go hand in hand here). ;)




Now don't get me wrong... I don't care at all if anyone wants to remove it or disable it; I just want them to know all the angles before they do and make sure people aren't just telling them to get rid of it just because "everyone else is doing it" or "that dragster don't got it". :frown: If you feel the need to advocate a change to someone else's vehicle (and no, no one in this thread was doing so) it's only right you give them the full details, especially when the side effects could be detrimental.