possible blown HG?
 

ok, i take off my radiator cap and there is all this like brown gunk on the cap and floating around... it looks likie congeiled oil but im not sure. read the blown HG thread and couldnt find anything about oil in the radiator or coolant... or maybe a cracked block?

No smoke from tail pipes at all.
oil is clean no coolant

dont really know.

there is also a very very LARGE vibration when the car hits around 40 mph no matter what gear im in. starts at 40 and vibrates at anything faster.

again confused...

its an 87 N/A so any help would be great.

THANK you

Just a thought, could the gunk be the result of mixed coolant types?
It's definitely worth following Bill's advice of flushing the system through & refilling either way because if it is oil then it'll start to damage the rubber coolant pipes & there's a few that are a complete pig to get at.

A compression test would probably show if the HG was on it's way out, and if you get on well with a local garage you could ask them to put the exhaust analyser probe into the top of the radiator (although not immersed in the coolant!) to see if there's any combustion gasses getting into the cooling system.

ok thanks for the advise. i am going to take out the radiator and flush out my engine of coolant and oil and then see where i am.

i still do not know where the vibrations are coming from.

what coolant type does the supra use? i havent gotten my toyota books yet and i wanna put the RIGHT coolant in there if i am going to clean it out completely...

thanks again

Toyota uses a red coolant that you can get from the dealership. It cools better and generally provides superior dielectric insulation. It is more expensive, but you only need a gallon... so it's no biggie. If the coolant system had any other type of coolant in it previously you MUST thoroughly flush the coolant system before returning to the red coolant. Some types of coolants are incompatible and will emulsify (thicken) when mixed.... don't want to add any more sludge to the system.

Hope it goes well & the sludge was just mixed coolant. As to the vibration, it might just be a wheel out of balance (although in my experience this tends to be from 55mph to 70mph usually). Could also be a worn engine/gearbox mounting or propshaft bearing...

thank you all for the advise. i REALLY hope its mixed coolant sludge too. I am gonna take a look at the prop shaft bearing since it is coming from the WHOLE back of the car. it isnt jsut one wheel. that should be easy enough to replace.

i emptied the resevior tank for the coolant today and it didnt look like it had oil in it just a lot of sludge and debris. so i dont THINK its a HG but we will see. compression test tomorrow as well!

hope all goes well!

Best of luck with the comp. test, do you know anyone in the motor trade who could do the "sniff test" with an exhaust gas analyser in the rad top? Either that or a chemical "block test" would also be worth doing if possible...

150, 150, 150, 150, 150, 150... here's hoping... :x:

Oh, and another thing to look out for at the back end is brake disc (or handbrake drum) warpage or sticking. Although if it was this you'd likely feel a pulse through the brake pedal on braking (or the handbrake lever, if applied just enough to slow the car while moving at about 30mph)

no the vibration only happens when i am accelerating, and it is really bad. i looked at the cvs, and they seem to be fine no warpage or bending or anything. its starting to get really bad though, like EVERYTHING vibrates no matter what gear or speed... VERY VERY annoying. so i am thinking it is that prop shaft bearing like dieing or somthing... please let me know if you have more thoughts!

i do not actually know anyone with any equipment like you were listing above. sucks.

oh and my exhaust is just kind of hanging there after the first muffler... anyone has stock exhaust they are trying to get rid of let me knoW!

There could well be your vibration, that exhaust. I've had a few cars where after fitting a new 'zorst the pipes have been a bit close to the tunnel & touched on acceleration creating a huge noise & vibration through the floor of the car. Now you've mentioned you have that loose it's first job. (at least try and secure it with old bungees or something so it can't hit the body & test it again.)

I missed the vibration issue before... There are several possibilities but the list gets smaller when you say that it is speed and not gear specific.

The first thing I would check is (as MA suggested) the wheels, have them balanced and checked to make sure the wheels aren't warped.

Get the alignment checked too. Even if the car goes straight it doesn't mean everything is aligned well.

Next, check the carrier bearing in the canter of the drive shaft for excessive play... I don't what's acceptable play in this bearing, mine had over 1/2" of play so I completely ditched it and got a one piece drive shaft. The carrier bearing seems to be one of the more common causes of speed related vibration.

If this is fine try to see if there's much play in the output shaft of the transmission (a hard to test this conclusively with the transmission still assembled, but it's worth trying to check).

Then, check for play in all of the suspension and steering related ball joints and check all the other suspension bushings.

ALL IS WELL!

i replaced the center drive shaft and got another differential...

I had an LSD in a non turbo supra wich means someone put it there and didnt know what the hell they were doing. it was missing shims and the u joint had like a inch of play.

I FIXED IT OMG YAY!:gotnos::dance:

Actually, the N/A had a LSD available as an option. All N/A diffs were 4.30:1. As long as that ratio is the same as what you've got, it's a N/A diff.

Glad you found your driveline problem, how's the engine coming?

i flushed all of the coolant out and put dexcool in it becuase it has the same properties at the toyota stuff just missing a few things, and its cheaper... there seems to be no more sludgy stuff in the coolant which means no BHG!

replaced both clutch and brake master cylinders, the clutch exploded in the car and the brake in the engine bay but all is well except for the paint and carpet where the brake fluid got.

all seems to be well when i am speaking to you now... gonna detail it and give it a good cleaning this weekend and see what other problems i behold.

ACTUALLY! none of the cabin lighting is turning on, chekced all the fuses and battery connections... sometimes it used to work and now it jsut does even turn on. the door lights work and the foot well lighting, no ciggarette lighter or dome lights though...

Sounds like wiring, get a wiring diagram for the lights that aren't working and use a DMM or vantage to find the voltage drop from each connection, could be a wire or faulty connection, damn cars are wired like an ant farm.

Do the gauges light up when the headlights are turned on? If not it's quite likely that the dimmer died. As long as there isn't a short you can pull the dimmer and jumper the white wire with the black stripe and the white wire with the green stripe... I recommend using a 7.5A fuse in between the two. If this works, you may either leave it this way (the gauges will stay lit a full) or replace the dimmer.

The Dome light issue is either a bad ground inside the enclosure, a bad Dome fuse or a bad door switch... if you can't turn the Dome on manually either, it's usually the ground inside the dome light assembly.

I had a problem with my interior lights before as well, when I did finally get them fixed my back left tail light kepts burning out, if that happens you're in the same boat as me, as I've been trying to figure out my tail light problem for about a year now ;;

If the bulbs are actually burning out you most likely need to replace the tail lamp housing's seal. If they weren't actually burning out AND the right side was also cutting out at the same time, it would probably be a problem with the tail lamp failure module.

anyone know anything about the drain plug for the oil?

thanks cre, got it fixed

The big bolt thingy.... uh... no.





:roflwtf: And the question is???

lol the PO of my car like raped the drain plug and stuck some like expansion plug in there that lets the oil DRIBBLE out ferosiosly.... lol its funnier cause i am here...

Heh, well, take some deep breaths and read my reply in the thread you started about that matter:

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...drain-cap.html