checking out an 86 mk3 tomorrow

[cvbikeguy]

Originally Posted by oregonjoe

Electronic Speed Control?

Looked under the hood on mine and fount a 2-wire like your photo. It's T pattern and goes to the Spark Coil. The other end goes to the wire harness.

no doesnt look like a T. just has two slots.

so i tried the engine again. turns over fine. car keeps revving but no fire. my dad says it might be my timing?

[cvbikeguy]

do you think i need to adjust the timing now? the car just keeps backfiring with no start

[oregonjoe]

Again - this is fhere spark plug removal is helpful. With plugs removed yo can get a timming light on the #1 wire and crank engine to set distrub to get close enough to fire up.

With mine - I just set distrib half way and was close enoungh to get going.

It is very important to get distrub back in right so timming in not off - assuming timming belt was all lined up correct.

If you don't want to remove plugs - you can try cranking while rotating distrib slightly plus or minus. One way cranking will go easier - other way harder.

With plugs removed you can check compression to see is valve timming is OK and also check for wet cylinders for fuel injectors.

Any vacuum ports not connected will also hard start or not idle.

Even though its EFI, open the throttle a bit while starting to bypass the idle control if it not connected correctly.

If it backfires its getting fuel and spark - so timming is going to be important.

I always put a light on my crank before trying to start as a miss timed enginge can lead to bad things that undo all the hard work.

[cre]

Chasing head bolt threads.... Google it and I'll let you decide how worried you want to be. If you installed head studs and not bolts then you don't need to worry about it really. If you did use headbolts, I hope you lubricated them VERY well and you should plan on doing multiple retorques over the next several thousand miles.

I agree with the cranking with the EFI fuse pulled, I don't agree with running straight 30 weight oil.... this is NOT a rebuild Joe.

I don't see any point to the thing about running the car, then stopping it, then running it, then stopping it.... I don't see any harm from doing it, but I see no benefit... Mind elaborating on this Joe?

When I'm getting ready to finish a HG job I pour some of the thinnest (and cheapest) oil I can find over the cams so it will flow through the head and block and help flush out any garbage. Don't leave the drain plug in. Then, I'll plug the drain, and pour in my motor oil (don't use expensive stuff here either) without the covers on yet, making sure to saturate the cams and valve buckets. I'll pull the EFI fuse (shouldn't be in yet anyway) install the valve covers and crank the engine for about 30 seconds. Now jumper FP and B+ in the diagnostic box to power the fuel pump with the car off.... look for fuel leaks. NOW, install spark plugs, intake, EFI fuse, remove jumper and start her up. Let the car run at idle until it reaches operating temp. Check again for leaks, check oil level and top off as needed.

Now, drive it around the block a couple times... not too far, just want to make sure everything is flowing well. Head home and change the oil and filter. Dont' run the best stuff here either as you're going to be changing it again in 3 or 4 days... use the good stuff then (I recommend Pennzoil Platinum 0W-30 or Castrol Syntec European Blend 0W-30). When you do the final oil change changing the coolant is a good idea as well.

Use a GOOD oil filter, Purolator PureOne, Wix/NAPA Gold, Mobile One or K&N.... I really recommend using a PureOne here, I think it has the finest filtration of small particles.

It's not that I like wasting oil... but it's cheap compared to doing damage due to particulate in the engine that you didn't realize was there.

[oregonjoe]

When putting the distrib back in - be sure the center of the rotor blade is lined up on the #1 spark wire terminal when crank is TDC on fire stroke (remember its TDC twice, once on fire and once on exhaust so be sure you got the right one.)

You can put the distrub cap to locate the #1 terminal and then mark the mark the housing with a perm marker so you can remove the cap to see the rotor . Be sure to rotate crank severl rev by hand to be sur the rotor always goes back to #1 terminal when at TDC on crank.

This will get close enough to start.

[cre]

The extra plug, not very clear. What are the colors of the wires running to it? Is the Auxiliary fan on the radiator plugged in (looks too small for that connector though)?

[cvbikeguy]

Originally Posted by oregonjoe

Again - this is fhere spark plug removal is helpful. With plugs removed yo can get a timming light on the #1 wire and crank engine to set distrub to get close enough to fire up.

With mine - I just set distrib half way and was close enoungh to get going.

It is very important to get distrub back in right so timming in not off - assuming timming belt was all lined up correct.

If you don't want to remove plugs - you can try cranking while rotating distrib slightly plus or minus. One way cranking will go easier - other way harder.

With plugs removed you can check compression to see is valve timming is OK and also check for wet cylinders for fuel injectors.

Any vacuum ports not connected will also hard start or not idle.

Even though its EFI, open the throttle a bit while starting to bypass the idle control if it not connected correctly.

If it backfires its getting fuel and spark - so timming is going to be important.

I always put a light on my crank before trying to start as a miss timed enginge can lead to bad things that undo all the hard work.

put a light on your crank? also i was going through the TSRM and noticed i didnt align the grooves in the distributer with the cam or what not? i was told i could just shove in the distributer because it didnt need a specific placement

[cre]

Originally Posted by cvbikeguy

i was told i could just shove in the distributer because it didnt need a specific placement

Ummm... NO. Has to be at 0* along with the cams and the crank.

[cvbikeguy]

Originally Posted by oregonjoe

When putting the distrib back in - be sure the center of the rotor blade is lined up on the #1 spark wire terminal when crank is TDC on fire stroke (remember its TDC twice, once on fire and once on exhaust so be sure you got the right one.)

You can put the distrub cap to locate the #1 terminal and then mark the mark the housing with a perm marker so you can remove the cap to see the rotor . Be sure to rotate crank severl rev by hand to be sur the rotor always goes back to #1 terminal when at TDC on crank.

This will get close enough to start.

holy sh*t. ok im sure this is the prolem. i didnt read any of this when putting the car back together.

[cvbikeguy]

last time i listen to a guy with a tsi