checking out an 86 mk3 tomorrow

[cre]

As long as it's all zero'd out you should land pretty close to 0* of advance with the distributor bolted in the center of it's range. Unless you're off a tooth or more on a gear there's no room in the adjustment slide to be off more than 15*... I really don't see the point in this.

[cre]

Originally Posted by cvbikeguy

last time i listen to a guy with a tsi

Dumbass.

[cvbikeguy]

Originally Posted by cre

As long as it's all zero'd out you should land pretty close to 0* of advance with the distributor bolted in the center of it's range. Unless you're off a tooth or more on a gear there's no room in the adjustment slide to be off more than 15*... I really don't see the point in this.

so all i need to do is set everything to 0.

the cams are already lined up with the crank. but for the dist. this hash mark has to be pointing up also?

[oregonjoe]

Put crank at TDC of Compression Stroke (if valve covers are off this easy to see when intake valve has rotated and closed)

If everthing is back together you will remove #1 spark plug and put wodden dowel or long straw into cylinder and rotate engine till it tops out and TDC mark on crank.


Then with #1 spark terminal marked on Distrib housing. Put distrib back in and note center of rotor blade aligned with mark. If not aligned, lift out distrib half way till you can rotate the rotor one nothch on the gear teeth and slide all the way back down and recheck. Keep doing this one tooth at a time till you get he rotor blade centered on the #1 spark terminal.

Then set distrib half way on it adjustment travel and tighten down. Recheck by rotationg crank and note if rotor alwys aligns with #1 termianl on cap.

[cvbikeguy]

thanks everyone. well sadly i got to go to a funeral now. ill finish up later

[cre]

I redo it until the bolt goes through the center WITH the rotor still at 0.

[cre]

Did you read my extended post a few posts back? I'm curious, did you install studs or bolts?

[cvbikeguy]

Got head arp bolts.

So I know you guys told me pretty blak and white how to put the alternator in but I'm still a little unsure and my dad is just as slow as me.

[cre]

When you torqued down the bolt did they move smoothly all the wayuntil you stopped or did they stutter or skip? It's important.


The CPS is easy. Here's how I do it broken down into tiny steps:
Remove cap so rotor is visible.
Line up circle indicator with notch on the other end.
(I don't do this, but you might as well) Use a magic marker to place a mark on the rotor and on the CPS/Dizzy housing so you can relocate/verify 0? easily if you need to.
Now, insert the shaft in the hole...
Giggle like a girl. (optional)
Before seating the CPS/Dizzy, rotate the whole assembly so the CPS/Dizzy retainer bolt's hole is in the CENTER of the eccentric opening.
Now, as long as the rotor is still at 0?, insert!

NOTE: Due to the cam and rotor's helical gears the rotor will rotate a little bit as it turns. If it doesn't line up very close to 0? when inserted try backing it out and rotating the rotor just a hair clockwise or counterclockwise to correct for the rotation. Mine's not dead on, but it's only off by 1/16" or so... With the dizzy lined up to the center of the eccentric bolt hole my timing is pretty much at 0?. You don't have to do it this way, but it makes things easier sometimes and you can then confidently mark the CPS/Dizzy housing to reflect where 10? is.

[cre]

Bah.... the alternator... not paying attention here eh? Sorry... that's even easier, but I think the TSRM covers it fine. I'll look it up.


EDIT: Well, it's a simple job, but the TSRM may not explain it well enough, I dunno: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=CH&P=17

The only trick is that there's a metal bushing in the upper mount which presses inward as you tighten the top bolt. If you have trouble getting the top pivot in us some pliers or a small C clamp to press the bushing back out of the gap... it'll close back in when you tighten the bolt down.