checking out an 86 mk3 tomorrow - Page 20

cvbikeguy · 01-13-2010, 02:49 AM

Hanging out with the plugs in the gally? What does that mean?

cre · 01-13-2010, 02:50 AM

Make sure the plug galley isn't full of coolant dufus.

cvbikeguy · 01-13-2010, 03:55 AM

lol. i only got one of the studs through the egr valve on accident. didnt notice and proceded to put the nuts on. pinched the valve and the nut. cant get it off. F me

oregonjoe · 01-13-2010, 04:45 PM

Coolant on outside - OK

Coolant on inside - BAD

Check for collant in OIL and in vacumm hoses. Vacumm can suck coolant into engine. If car is running fine it will burn off eventuallly but will run rough till it does.

Pull plugs and crank engine to purge any in cylinders and check plug tips for coolant.

Not sure what you mean on the valve nut thing?

cvbikeguy · 01-14-2010, 02:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oregonjoe

Coolant on outside - OK

Coolant on inside - BAD

Check for collant in OIL and in vacumm hoses. Vacumm can suck coolant into engine. If car is running fine it will burn off eventuallly but will run rough till it does.

Pull plugs and crank engine to purge any in cylinders and check plug tips for coolant.

Not sure what you mean on the valve nut thing?

sweeet

ok i fixed it. gonna start the car up in a few hours. just wanna wait for the rtv to dry

cvbikeguy · 01-14-2010, 11:56 PM

ok just kidding. i got pretty sick last night. also i wanted the RTV to sit a little before i started. soooo im gonna start it up pretty soon today.

so i figure i turn it on.

turn it off

check for leaks

turn it on

check timing

then turn it on and off a few times reaching higher rpm each time?

change oil after 500 miles or so?

oregonjoe · 01-15-2010, 12:45 AM

Good luck!

Everyone has their own opinion on this.

I started mine, ran for 30 sec to 1 minute then shut off to check for leaks

Then restart and run to check timing avout 5 minutes. Really can't get a good timing check till the engine is fully warmed up and the thermostat opens up at which time the ECM has backed off the idle control motor and engine pulling max vacuum. At this point you listen for vacuum leaks (hissing sound) which will also cause the engine to loop at idel (if ait can hold idle)

Only after the engine will idle smooth after full warm up do I rev anything or drive it.

When thermostat opens up the engine RPM will drop from 1500 to about 1000

Turn off and check OIl to be sure no water is getting in from head job.

NOW is the time to actually drive it. I use short burst to 3000 from dead stop and coast to let engine cool down between busts (30 sec each) Its a fun time because a rebuilt engine will have some pep. The graddluy increase time getting to 3000 in burst with cool down inbetween. I only ran for 5 minutes at atime for first few runs with cool down so cylinders did not get too hot before rings got a chance to seat (thrich is to keep oil from glazing to walls)

Then take it on short drives with lots of dead stop to 4000 as fast as it can. You are trying to load the crank, valves and rings so they get through full travel during bearkin.

Thats how I do it - worked for me several times. Others baby it for 5000 miles. - To each his own.

cre · 01-15-2010, 12:52 AM

Me, I'm wasteful after big jobs like this. I run the car up to normal operating temps at idle while searching in a frantic and paranoid manner (frantic is key) for any leaks, sparks, weird green critters chewing on wires and so on.

Then I'll take the car for a short drive, about 5 miles, head home and inspect further.

No leaks? Then I'll go for a 20 mile drive. When I come home I'll look again for signs of trouble and let the car cool. After the car has cooled I replace the oil filter and change the oil.... hope you used cheap oil...

And top off the coolant.

For the next few hundred miles (500-600) I'll change the filter one or two more times (not the oil), top the oil off and keep a VERY close eye on coolant and oil levels and watch for signs of contamination.

After five or six hundred miles I'll change oil and filter again and return thereafter to my regular maintenance schedule. I may change the coolant at this point... depends on how clean I think I was and if the cooling system as a filter or not.

Thanks Joe, I keep forgetting he's also breaking everything in. I agree with your methodology for the break in side of things.

cvbikeguy · 01-15-2010, 09:49 AM

So attempt no. 4 has failed. Manifold still leaks in the same spot.

Did I not put enough rtv or something? Also a couple injectors are leaking. They are properly placed and everything.

This car, is cursed

oregonjoe · 01-15-2010, 04:35 PM

where exactly is it leaking - diagram?

Does the engine start? or is leaking bad while cranking?

Really don't need much RTV at all - just a thin film - so it must be a bad fit, crack, missing bolt, bad nipple fitting, bad or cracked hose?

01-13-2010, 02:49 AM	#191
cvbikeguy 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Castro Valley, CA Posts: 248	Hanging out with the plugs in the gally? What does that mean? __________________ 86 MKIII Supra East Bay, CA 7mge rebuild. http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-tomorrow.html MKIII commercial http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HY9W3...om=PL&index=27 lightening build http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ing-build.html

01-13-2010, 02:50 AM	#192
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Make sure the plug galley isn't full of coolant dufus. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

01-13-2010, 03:55 AM	#193
cvbikeguy 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Castro Valley, CA Posts: 248	lol. i only got one of the studs through the egr valve on accident. didnt notice and proceded to put the nuts on. pinched the valve and the nut. cant get it off. F me __________________ 86 MKIII Supra East Bay, CA 7mge rebuild. http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-tomorrow.html MKIII commercial http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HY9W3...om=PL&index=27 lightening build http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ing-build.html

01-13-2010, 04:45 PM	#194
oregonjoe 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern Oregon Coast Posts: 83	Coolant Coolant on outside - OK Coolant on inside - BAD Check for collant in OIL and in vacumm hoses. Vacumm can suck coolant into engine. If car is running fine it will burn off eventuallly but will run rough till it does. Pull plugs and crank engine to purge any in cylinders and check plug tips for coolant. Not sure what you mean on the valve nut thing?

01-14-2010, 11:56 PM	#196
cvbikeguy 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Castro Valley, CA Posts: 248	crossing fingers ok just kidding. i got pretty sick last night. also i wanted the RTV to sit a little before i started. soooo im gonna start it up pretty soon today. so i figure i turn it on. turn it off check for leaks turn it on check timing then turn it on and off a few times reaching higher rpm each time? change oil after 500 miles or so? __________________ 86 MKIII Supra East Bay, CA 7mge rebuild. http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-tomorrow.html MKIII commercial http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HY9W3...om=PL&index=27 lightening build http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ing-build.html

01-15-2010, 12:45 AM	#197
oregonjoe 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern Oregon Coast Posts: 83	Start up Good luck! Everyone has their own opinion on this. I started mine, ran for 30 sec to 1 minute then shut off to check for leaks Then restart and run to check timing avout 5 minutes. Really can't get a good timing check till the engine is fully warmed up and the thermostat opens up at which time the ECM has backed off the idle control motor and engine pulling max vacuum. At this point you listen for vacuum leaks (hissing sound) which will also cause the engine to loop at idel (if ait can hold idle) Only after the engine will idle smooth after full warm up do I rev anything or drive it. When thermostat opens up the engine RPM will drop from 1500 to about 1000 Turn off and check OIl to be sure no water is getting in from head job. NOW is the time to actually drive it. I use short burst to 3000 from dead stop and coast to let engine cool down between busts (30 sec each) Its a fun time because a rebuilt engine will have some pep. The graddluy increase time getting to 3000 in burst with cool down inbetween. I only ran for 5 minutes at atime for first few runs with cool down so cylinders did not get too hot before rings got a chance to seat (thrich is to keep oil from glazing to walls) Then take it on short drives with lots of dead stop to 4000 as fast as it can. You are trying to load the crank, valves and rings so they get through full travel during bearkin. Thats how I do it - worked for me several times. Others baby it for 5000 miles. - To each his own.

01-15-2010, 12:52 AM	#198
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Me, I'm wasteful after big jobs like this. I run the car up to normal operating temps at idle while searching in a frantic and paranoid manner (frantic is key) for any leaks, sparks, weird green critters chewing on wires and so on. Then I'll take the car for a short drive, about 5 miles, head home and inspect further. No leaks? Then I'll go for a 20 mile drive. When I come home I'll look again for signs of trouble and let the car cool. After the car has cooled I replace the oil filter and change the oil.... hope you used cheap oil... And top off the coolant. For the next few hundred miles (500-600) I'll change the filter one or two more times (not the oil), top the oil off and keep a VERY close eye on coolant and oil levels and watch for signs of contamination. After five or six hundred miles I'll change oil and filter again and return thereafter to my regular maintenance schedule. I may change the coolant at this point... depends on how clean I think I was and if the cooling system as a filter or not. Thanks Joe, I keep forgetting he's also breaking everything in. I agree with your methodology for the break in side of things. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar ---> Last edited by cre; 01-15-2010 at 01:46 AM.

01-15-2010, 09:49 AM	#199
cvbikeguy 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Castro Valley, CA Posts: 248	So attempt no. 4 has failed. Manifold still leaks in the same spot. Did I not put enough rtv or something? Also a couple injectors are leaking. They are properly placed and everything. This car, is cursed __________________ 86 MKIII Supra East Bay, CA 7mge rebuild. http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-tomorrow.html MKIII commercial http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HY9W3...om=PL&index=27 lightening build http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ing-build.html

01-15-2010, 04:35 PM	#200
oregonjoe 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern Oregon Coast Posts: 83	leak where exactly is it leaking - diagram? Does the engine start? or is leaking bad while cranking? Really don't need much RTV at all - just a thin film - so it must be a bad fit, crack, missing bolt, bad nipple fitting, bad or cracked hose?

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