01-27-2010, 11:19 PM | #241 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Castro Valley, CA
Posts: 248
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No rtv...
What problems am I looking at? And I did buy new bolts for the cam covers so I might have warped them?
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86 MKIII Supra East Bay, CA 7mge rebuild. http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-tomorrow.html MKIII commercial http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HY9W3...om=PL&index=27 lightening build http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ing-build.html |
01-29-2010, 06:25 AM | #242 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Castro Valley, CA
Posts: 248
|
Cre?
Anyone?
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86 MKIII Supra East Bay, CA 7mge rebuild. http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-tomorrow.html MKIII commercial http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HY9W3...om=PL&index=27 lightening build http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ing-build.html |
01-29-2010, 07:53 AM | #243 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Well, did you over torque the covers? If you did you can check for warpage by holding them against a piece of glass... no biggie. After you reinstall (and put RTV in the right place here too) if you have issues with leakage then you've most likely crushed the rubber seal... and before anyone tried to argue that you can't crush rubber, go look up the shore durometer scale... I'm sick of arguing about stupid shit (not at all directed at you CV).
As for the RTV on the timing plate... you're going to leak oil by the water pump and below the alternator... if it gets bad enough it will soak and ruin the timing belt. The location where RTV is REQUIRED is shown on these two pages: (1st picture) http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=EM&P=55 (1st picture) http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=EM&P=56 Additionally, there is an order you SHOULD use when installing the valve covers. Tighten the two middle bolts 1/2 the torque value, then tighten the inner bolt toward the front, then the outer bolt toward the rear, then the outer toward the front, then the inner toward the rear... then in the same order torque the rest of the 22 INCH lbs. I am sorry... I thought you were following the manual with all of this.There are two ways to seal the leak at the timing plate: pull the head or pull the lower timing plate... both entail approximately the same amount of labor, but the head is the one you're familiar with... and the head is the safer bet... downside there is you'll need a new HG. By pulling the timing plate you can slide it off, load in a lot of RTV on ALL of the connecting surfaces and then try to slide it in without pinching the HG thus preventing the timing plate from mounting without a gap... I've done it successfully, but I don't recommend it. I'll add that I think it's unlikely that ou warped the valve covers... still, you should check them just in case.
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01-29-2010, 08:34 AM | #244 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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I've been through the timing plate thing on two of these cars, including my own not both my fault although mine was). It's not the worst thing that could happen and pulling the head back off isn't so bad... not since everything's been off recently and the process is fresh in your mind.
The leaks at the lower timing plate are generally very steady, but slow. You can get by for a good amount of time before tackling it. Sometimes it won't start leaking right away either, but that doesn't seem very common. Unfortunately, this is a common oversight another common source of leaks here is machine shops not cutting the block deck with the timing plate installed thus making the timing plate taller than the block which holds the head up at the front. I feel bad man. Nothing worse than forgetting one little thing only to find out it just may bite you in the ass in a big way... but seriously, don't freak... it shouldn't be leaking so much as to prevent you from driving the car for a month or two until you're ready to swap the HG... and the HG WILL be easier to swap the second time around... hell, maybe you'll the one lucky SOB for whom it doesn't leak.
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If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar ---> Last edited by cre; 01-29-2010 at 08:36 AM. |
01-30-2010, 04:40 PM | #245 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Castro Valley, CA
Posts: 248
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sooo i have been following the tsrm. i did notice the part about sealing the timing cover but i thought it was nothing. and honestly didnt quite understand. the rtv goes behind the rear timing plate (between the block and the timing plate? or since i can take the head off i can rtv on top of the timing plate? i did have the machine shop shave the plate along with the block so they are flush.
and for the timing covers i can just rtv in the corners as shown in the picture? also are you using stock bolts with the philips heads or did you get replacement bolts? i have new bolts but i couldnt find grommets like the original. thanks so much for the help cre. i think this is exactly whatmy problem is. besides changing the distributer o-ring and figuring the electrical for my oil pressure sensor.
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86 MKIII Supra East Bay, CA 7mge rebuild. http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-tomorrow.html MKIII commercial http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HY9W3...om=PL&index=27 lightening build http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ing-build.html |
01-30-2010, 06:40 PM | #246 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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The RTV does go on top of where the plate and block meet. Put down about a 1/4" bead.... I'm pretty sure mine leaked because I put it on way too thin.
Get new grommets from Toyota or another parts shop if they have them... definitely use them. I'm using hex bolts with a flange head along with rubber/copper grommets I found at a specialty hardware shop. If you really want to make sure they stay in place you may add a drop of temporary thread locker to each of the bolts. Still no oil pressure readings?
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02-06-2010, 01:15 PM | #247 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Castro Valley, CA
Posts: 248
|
heyyy sorry for not having an update. i have classes just for a few weeks and i wont be able to resume for a little. the car is currently sitting in shame.
ok sooooooo. just to triple, double, quadruple check. all i need to do is take off the head. not the rear timing plate. then put a thin bead on top in those two spots where the timing plate and the block meet. hmmmmmmmmmm since im going to be unable to work on it im also going to see if i can order new copper washers, no 3 valve cover, and a few other things.
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86 MKIII Supra East Bay, CA 7mge rebuild. http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-tomorrow.html MKIII commercial http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HY9W3...om=PL&index=27 lightening build http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ing-build.html |
02-06-2010, 07:39 PM | #248 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Yes, pull the head to seal that area... it's just as much work the other way, harder to reassemble and you're likely to scrape the RTV out from where it needs to be when you put the plate back on.
Did you go with a metal HG or an OEM style composite HG? If you used a composite HG it needs to be replaced. Don't forget the RTV at the #1 cam caps when you reinstall the valve covers. I'd install new cam seals and new valve cover seals if you haven't already done so.
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02-19-2010, 09:40 PM | #249 | |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Castro Valley, CA
Posts: 248
|
Quote:
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02-20-2010, 04:40 AM | #250 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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I linked to the TSRM pages where it shows where to RTV both timing cover and the valve covers a few posts up: http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/78100-post243.html
Yeah, we don't use a lot of RTV on these engines but this engine's a bitch when you forget it.
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