How do i pull the head off my mkiii?

[MA70-3.0GT]

no no no not the oil drain, the block coolant drain bolt (see the handbook p142 IIRC, or the tsrm) so that the remaining coolant in the block doesn't spill over into the oil passages & bores when you lift the head.

Oh & don't zip tie or fold the timing belt in any way as it can get damaged. There's no need to keep it on the teeth if you set the motor to TDC before you remove everything (again see the tsrm for locations of timing matchmarks, it's dead easy & failsafe for getting it back spot on, plus you'll probably want to turn the engine while the head's off so you can decoke all the pistons properly).

I'm gonna sing & do a rain dance for ya now! lol. Let's see if it really does have a metal HG..., maybe he meant "Moron-fitted Head Gasket" if it's gone already!!!

[livelaughslide]

yea, already did that. okay sounds good. so once the timing belts off do i have to take off the cam gears? the tsrm said i did but man i dont want too..

[MA70-3.0GT]

You don't HAVE to take the cam gears off to remove the head, but it's so easy I don't know why you wouldn't want to, just lock them together with an old screwdriver handle between them & undo the 14mm bolts, they pull right off, just make a note of which holes the dowels are in (usually the middle unless something's wierd)...

I did it just so I can paint the timing cover up nice & pretty!

[livelaughslide]

i was wanting to paint mine too but no creativity, can you show a pic of urs? lol. so my car has an aem fuel rail..... diddnt know aem made fuel rails for mk3s. hmm. so ill just pull them off BUT do my cams have to come out too? lol heres another pics homes.







my friend was said first things first, take out your new blue ngk wires before they get all dirty. welp, heads almost off and there they sit, dirty as hell.

[MA70-3.0GT]

Ha ha, yeah I know the feeling. Mine had nice blue silicon hoses on the breathers & BPV before I started, now they're black...

I've not painted anything yet, only cosmetic bits I've got round to are cleaning the 3000 pipe a bit & all the rest of the boost hoses (I'm a lazy so & so!) and repaired the broken dipstick with the shank of a 1/16" pop rivet shoved down between the T piece & tube part!

Again, the cams don't have to come out really but you'll find it a lot easier to clean up the combustion chambers with all the valves shut, plus you can put the head down right side up without bending valves.

Obviously if you do take them out make sure all the caps go back in the same place & orientation as they came out (mine are marked IN> and EX> with the > pointing to the front, not sure if that's stock or if they were done as a reminder) and the valve shim buckets have to go back in the same hole too.
Torque for the cap bolts is 14ft/lb, undo & do them up gradually along the length of the cams so as not to force one end down before the other.

Also bear in mind that the cam seals have to be replaced if you pull the cams. It does make cleaning up a helluva lot easier though!

EDIT-: DUDE, tell me your battery isn't still connected? Don't think there's anything in particular you'd damage but one hell of a fire risk when the fuel rail's on that side too, just ONE spark & bye bye supra... *shudder*

[livelaughslide]

I got it, thanks to you all the head is off here is the pics.

Oh, he lied about the mhg, the arp studs and i got the little pieace of heli coil fucking everything up so now its time to send shit off the the machine shopppp


Oh and can someone give here opion if my pistion is fucked? It looked terrrible, BUT 78% of it was build up only on that one cynlender with the tap. you can see it before and after i clean it up, and were it was hitting the little pieace of metal and were the metal was engraved in the headlol.

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Is pistion salvagable? What do you guys think...

[livelaughslide]

[livelaughslide]

what do you thinkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk?

[MA70-3.0GT]

Sorry, had to go the other night.

Well first job on the list is get down the guy who sold it to you's house with a can of gas, a box of matches & your negotiating hat on. Get a few hundred $ off him for the aggro he's caused & for lying. Then get everything cleaned up & see how bad it really is.

If the bore & side of the piston aren't damaged then I'd suggest you could get away with it for now, provided the rest of the motor's sweet for a few thousand miles.

If it's generally pretty worn looking though (any smoke? what was your hot oil pressure like at idle, if you recall?) then I'd budget for a full on rebuild or engine swap. To my eye those bores look pretty worn but the pics weren't the best for telling that.

To be honest the best thing to do for now is to clean everything up as best you can, take some more pics including some of all the bores if you can get them to go right (mine wouldn't go in focus 'cause of the shine!) and go from there.

[livelaughslide]

Its all good man, Got a couple of questions though, well first ill awnser yours.

No smoke, never ever ever. useally a car in the condition of mine after idileing for a while then touch the gas i puff of white smoke will emerge due to bad/hard vlave seal but mine was solid.. weird..

As far as oil pressure my guage never worked so during this build i bought 3 tinted bad ass guages Witch im doing somthing very cool with and i put it ina new thread. lol, and as far as wear on the block car ran a 13.8 So im guessing it cant be too bad, lol. i just re-did my intake plenium, bored it with the dremil and nice acid stetic bath. looks brand new.

So anywase about the headgasket. after you get the head back from the machine shop your sapossed to messure how much they took off and replace it with a thicker gasket..

Well if stock is 1.3mm.. why does greddy offer a 1.mm? or shit hks's 1.2 all day. saying in the desciption adds compression.. ovously but a heard a rumor of detination problems..? weird.. and wtf is a stopper gasket compared to a reguler.. lol thanks man oh and heres my NEW intake and valve covers. lol