How do i pull the head off my mkiii?

[livelaughslide]

Some of you know im having some trouble with my car.. and now it could be catastrophic.

A pieace of a heli-coil fell down into my combustion chamber and now the motor has a loud knock/tick at the top of the head.

FML

im so pissed about this happening so i just wont to get it done and over with.

What is the fastest, easiest way for pulling the head off my 88 turbo manuel supra?

i would like to leave the long block in with the tranny and spread the harness and get to it...

but if everyone insists on pulling the whole thing i might have to.

i really really want to leave the motor in..and pull the block.

any advice, Or future problems i might run into or short cut will be DEEPLY apprechated.

thanks again..

[cre]

Fast and easy? Not really possible... Keep in mind that you're likely to find a LOT more things that need attention and you're likely to crack a couple hoses and so on when you pull the head.



I already replied to your other thread:

Originally Posted by cre

Trying to helicoil the head with it still on was foolish at best... BUT, a few small twists of aluminum aren't going to cause a loud knock... it'll shred the cylinder wall and chew up valves. A loud knock or pop could be the result of a sticking valve or a leak around one of the spark plugs where the helicoil didn't seal well or is leaking.

Exactly how bad is the noise?

If some shrapnel did score the cylinder wall you're going to have to pull the engine.

Do you have something against platinum spark plugs?

What make and model plugs did you install?

Pulling the engine with the transmission attached is a little more difficult, but I (and many others) think it's easier than trying to line the engine and transmission up when reinstalling if you separated them.

Right now, I would pull the plugs back out and inspect the helicoils; Then I'd check the spark plugs for damage or cracked insulators; Then check the spark plug wires.



Sorry, you're having such a terrible time with it... mine was a horrible hell when I got it. I bought mine for $300... well, my friend bought it from a used car dealership for $300... that's what the scrap yard was going to pay them. Yup, they were going to scrap it... he probably should have let them. I have more money than I want to think about sunk into this car now and I'm sure I couldn't sell it for more than $5000.

[livelaughslide]

thats what i said?a small puieace of aluminum couldnt develope a noise such as this.. and Its is a deepish very loud tick, i sprayed around the plugs with soapy water and no leak as the car ran, i pulled the plugs to see any damage, none. as far as the heli coils they looked ehh okay.

what is the chance of a valve sticking as soon as i change my plugs and i started the car 3 hours prior with no knock, take out the autolite platnums 5503's and put in cheapo oem champions. ( just temperary) ?? i doubt it...

when i stated the car the miss was pretty much gone (YAY!) then the second it started came a loud knock deffinitly from the top of the head.(damnnnn)

The heli coils are steel, and a good chunk could have broken off.. im gonna find out tomarrow..

ill run it one last time, becuase god damn it my supra wasnt some pieace. its damn near flawless and i worked my ass off for it.

and now, literlly now all my new parts such as huge front mount, profec ii boost controler and all kinds of shit are coming in the mail and well now i gotta pull my head?

God damn it! im so sick of this man, i cant thank you guys enough but shit this is geting old.

[cre]

I'm very well aware that the helicoils are steel... when I said aluminum debris I said that because that's what you'd most likely have dropped in; helicoils are very strong steel, it's not easy to break them.

I mentioned a valve sticking due to debris preventing it from closing... it's not unlikely at all if a curl of aluminum entered the cylinder when you were tapping it. Aluminum is light and the air would readily carry it with. I'm not saying that's what it is... it is possible.

You could pull the valve covers and check the shim clearances on the exhaust side to see if one isn't fully retracting... if it's caught on debris I'd expect a 1mm or more gap. It's an easy enough process and can be done quick enough if you're only looking at one or two cylinders.

A rough idle after just swapping plugs is usually due to either a problem with the plugs or the wiring you had to move to get to them. I don't think it should ever sound like a knock though; Not unless the bad plug was keeping the cylinder from burning to the point that it was just hiding an existing rod knock (but that's a lot lower than the head as you know).

Cheap Champion plugs now.... sigh.

I gave you my 2,000 cents worth of advice, do with it as you will.

[livelaughslide]

damn i never thought id be laughing aspecially after tonight, i wasnt trying to correct you, a possible pieace of aluminum wedged between the valve is i think more then possible.

SO,
thanks to you sir tomarrow i am putting the plugs back in, spraying soapy water around the bottom of the plug, check for a huge compression leak, pull a valve cover and check #4 ( the one with the iffy healicool.)

and if all else fails, rip the engine out and throw in a B18 VTEC BABY.
ha, i just died a little saying that...
annnny wase as far as you comment on my plugs with down sindrom aka champions, they were brand new and free. my friend works at a discount auto. so Ha! Lol, Cre you have been more then amazing, you are god for helping me out man.

[Bill UK]

Bit late now, but this may have been a useful tool Link if available in the US, good price as well.

[MA70-3.0GT]

Yeah they're excellent little things for just this sort of job.

Anyway, how's it coming? You checked those valve clearances yet? That's where my money's on at the moment & if you catch it before it's run too much you may even get to keep the affected valve & seat if it's only ally jammed in there.

One of those scopes would be a godsend if it is this, as you could use a flexi bar or screwdriver to loosen the bit of crap once you've found it & then put a screwdriver with blu-tak on the end down to fish it out, all by only removing at worst a manifold, the valve covers & plugs...

If it does come to pulling the head, there's NO need at all to drop the motor. Only thing that makes it tricky is if you have studs & nuts instead of bolts holding it down, even then you only need to take the rearmost studs out to do it in-situ. I've just pulled my head & the worst bit by far was accessing the turbo & oil feed bolts, you could even bypass this by undoing the 7 manifold nuts & tying the lot back a few mm, I think. One thing I will say though, if you're lifting the head on you're own then
1) remove the radiator so you can stand in the bay, or you'll break your back trying to lift it!
2) when you're ready to go lay a thick blanket over the nose of the car, then you can rest the head on this while you climb out.
3) ideally be in a garage, or at least a warm state of the US, it's no fun at all trying to strip an engine with freezing rain running down your neck!!!

EDIT-: here's a pic of the "headless supra" in case you don't believe me...

[livelaughslide]

See thats what i want to hear. thank you man. i really apprechate the advice. i got the turbo off, and i got the bolt through the top . and some other stuff. so far so good, its 12 pm here in florida and buot 60 degrees out so its a nice day to work. i think to days the day i get it off check out my progrees so far. OH and i installed my new supra mk4 TT seats in last night with my new profec boost controller. check it out! lol,











more comin later today thanks so much guys!!




As you can see i had massive amount of oil in my intake. hoping i blew my turbo and its not blow bye lol.

[MA70-3.0GT]

You're getting close now, with the turbo off & inlet mani' out the way you're on plain sailing from here. Just make sure you undo the head bolts in 3 passes & in the correct order (opposite order to tightening sequence).. I'd say maybe an hour until the head's off now.

Oh, make sure the drain plug's out of the block too or water can get into the oil passages!

As to the oil, it's normal to have some oil in the intake but if you think it's excessive (only excessive if the car's visibly blue smoking IMO) then you might want to check the turbo oil drain isn't blocked with carbonised oil caused by shutting off without warming down. TSRM has specs for measuring turbo shaft play too.

Best of luck & let us see the carnage of the old HG when you're done!

EDIT-: Don't Black MA70's just look the dog's danglies compared to any other paint job? It's the ONLY colour for a big GT car like this IMO, and if I could respray mine the only thing I'd change is I'd go from Toyota's plain Black to BMW's "DiamantSchwartz-Metallik"

EDIT#2-: Re: Weather, YOU LUCKY BASTID YOU!!!! hahaha, hammering it down here...

[livelaughslide]

Lmao! im undoing the timing belt now. im gonna find a ziptie and squeeze the two togeather at the bottom so it doesnt loost a tooth in the belt from tdc. the guy i bought it from said he had a hks mhg so we'll find out. still so nervous.
Oh and...
MAN is it nice out...

lol, so you want me to drain the oil too? not a big deal but my car is pretty slammed... lol. thanks again bud!