Turbo + Catalytic Converter

[Cyto]

Okay, I'll do that. It's almost 10 degrees outside, so I'll wait until tomorrow.
Thanks for all your help. I'm starting to get an understanding of this problematic car. So many things can go wrong. Its crazy.

[MA70-3.0GT]

tsrm http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=IN&P=1

(if you haven't already got it in your favourites, PUT IT THERE!!! It's a godsend!)

In the tsrm it says if the wastegate itself is stuck, buy a new turbo!

OK, back to planet earth & most stuck 'gates can be freed by oiling the pivot & working back & forth with pliers (actuator disconnected at this stage) until it's nice & easy to move again.

A lot of turbos can be got to without removal but the CT26 is a bitch to get at in the Supra (ask my knuckles!) so you'd be best off removing it if that's the issue. As cre said, if the 'gate is siezed the actuator may have been damaged by now but considering the price of new ones it's worth testing while disconnected to make sure. Not with "a ton of pressure" though as this can damage it, just around 10/11psi as in my previous post & it should move at around 7...

[cre]

Don't rely on oil to lubricate the waste gate... it's WAY too hot in there and no oil will last. Use a HIGH QUALITY penetrant to CLEAN our the hinged. Work the hell out of the hinge while keeping it thoroughly saturated and periodically flush it out with more.

I hadn't realized that OEM CT-26 waste gate actuators could be had as inexpensively and the OP found... last one I had to replace was for a monster Turbonetics and ran about $150, IIRC.

[MA70-3.0GT]

Oops, I meant pen. oil!!! Actually brake cleaner would be a better bet wouldn't it? Bearing in mind it's not going to leave behind any residue to burn into carbon & stick it again?

That actuator isn't bad at all, does it specify it as a Supra one though? The Landcruiser & others also used the CT26 & ran different boost levels IIRC...

[Cyto]

Well it was the wastegate actuator.

We pumped over 120psi into mine and it wouldn't budge. Thanks to cre, I now am good to go. Although, I still have a code 52 and 2 I think? Maybe 12. I'll go test in a minute lol.

Thanks everyone!!!

[cre]

Sorry for the gap here... we've been working this out via email.

The actuator Cyto found is not for a MKIII... probably a MR-2 (doesn't look like the LandCruiser's actuator).

Get that code 52 taken car of... you'll be amazed at how crippling that one is.

[Cyto]

Originally Posted by cre

Sorry for the gap here... we've been working this out via email.

The actuator Cyto found is not for a MKIII... probably a MR-2 (doesn't look like the LandCruiser's actuator).

Get that code 52 taken car of... you'll be amazed at how crippling that one is.

Is it easy to fix? Where's that guide you told me about?

[cre]

Oh... my apologies; I had forgotten.

Easy? Well, yes and no. The sensors are not easy to reach but you can manage as you only need to disconnect the clips and pull them out far enough to cut them from the harness with a couple inches of extra wire... well, you'll see.

http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=69

This is the most common fix for a code 52. If this doesn't fix it the issue is most likely a damaged knock sensor (GTEs have two).



NOTE: Do be careful when working around or directly with the knock sensors. The plastic housing is often a bit brittle from age and the internal element itself is piezoelectric and delicate.