What's a good, lower cost radiator for a MK III? - Page 3

cre · 12-11-2009, 09:50 PM

I don't think it's really worth it to replace the oil cooler unless you go the distance and replace the stock pressure based system with a thermostatic one.

As for the transmission cooler, I thought it was 180? but I don't know a whole lot about automatic transmissions. Anyway, the bit I was still waiting to hear back about was if the oil cooler needed a thermostatic bypass (or if it SHOULD have one added) or if the transmission has an internal bypass.

cre · 12-12-2009, 09:09 AM

Okay, a thermostat isn't needed (not for the tranny cooler). As long as you mount the cooler somewhere with good air flow you do not need a unit with a fan. The fan will be needed if you place the cooler in a location with poor air flow such as behind the fog light.

I can't emphasize enough that you need to plan the placement and routing very carefully... it can be a pain. Have you thought this out already? I'd like to know what you've come up with.

916MKIIIx2 · 12-12-2009, 07:16 PM

Right now im working on putting in a custom front bumper bar as opposed to the heavy stock one, bolting that up today then I have to map out the new space ill have. But from my original planning I was planning on mounting the tranny cooler right to that bar and have it up front about 3-4 inches infront of the intercooler, the oil cooler will be put in its stock position, if anyone can think of a better spot post it up.

cre · 12-13-2009, 07:07 PM

That sounds fine, I prefer having oil coolers behind the IC for added protection myself.

Off Topic: I was just thinking the other day about getting an aluminum bumper support built for my car.... heh, cool. How are you building yours? Is it steel or aluminum? Any numbers on how much weight you've managed to cut off?

916MKIIIx2 · 12-16-2009, 07:34 PM

Going with aluminum, but from what my instructors told me and from what I looked up, you don't even need the bumper bar, and I believe I managed to get out about 30lbs from the front taking out the big ass blast bard and brackets that held it. New bar is about 10 lbs, only problem with the alumi bar is it didnt really weld well to the frame work so we had to setup a bolt in system which added a little bit of weight. I'll post some pictures soon as I can.

cre · 12-16-2009, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 916MKIIIx2

from what my instructors told me and from what I looked up, you don't even need the bumper bar

Well, that's the kind of advice you get from asking a knitting instructor about car stuff.

I'm sorry, but either you weren't listening or they thought you were talking about a 'track only' vehicle. That bar could be one thing which would have saved your life in a severe front end collision. It's not just a matter of your driving skills but that of those you share the road with as well. Also, if you remove or modify (in such a way as to not meet legal requirements) safety devices which are required by law you give at fault parties a way to back out of paying for damages they do to you and your car... or at least you give them a way to fight the thing to the point of never paying you a dime.

Wait... "weld to the frame work"... what bar are you talking about here anyway? The bumper (the actual monstrous beast which absorbs impact is a bolt in assembly... at least on my car and the one from which my new bumper cover was pulled.

Post pictures, I'm lost now.

916MKIIIx2 · 12-16-2009, 10:44 PM

Aye stock is bolt, I wanted a stronger hookup but ended up using the stock bolt up... But what I meant about the bar was you don't need it for the frame to stay sturdy, but yes it does save your life ;p Which is why instead of ripping it out I had a lighter one made! Moved the battery to the back as well, you'd be amazed at how different just those two things made the front of the car feel, more response less understeer.

916MKIIIx2 · 01-16-2010, 04:58 PM

Alright the radiator got here last night and I went to bolt it on... Turns out I need some custom clamps somewhat like the ones used on the Koyo 1JZ radiator swap... anyone got instructions on that or something? ;p

cre · 01-18-2010, 04:30 AM

I only had to make two or three clips from some 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum stock from Home Depot. They're only around 2" to 3" long and just have a bend in the middle to offset them... it was really easy. No pics though, sorry.

916MKIIIx2 · 01-18-2010, 04:45 AM

Thanks, I just needed the info you just stated... I know you had posted somewhere else already, just didn't find it so thanks again!

12-11-2009, 09:50 PM	#21
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	I don't think it's really worth it to replace the oil cooler unless you go the distance and replace the stock pressure based system with a thermostatic one. As for the transmission cooler, I thought it was 180? but I don't know a whole lot about automatic transmissions. Anyway, the bit I was still waiting to hear back about was if the oil cooler needed a thermostatic bypass (or if it SHOULD have one added) or if the transmission has an internal bypass. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

12-12-2009, 09:09 AM	#22
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Okay, a thermostat isn't needed (not for the tranny cooler). As long as you mount the cooler somewhere with good air flow you do not need a unit with a fan. The fan will be needed if you place the cooler in a location with poor air flow such as behind the fog light. I can't emphasize enough that you need to plan the placement and routing very carefully... it can be a pain. Have you thought this out already? I'd like to know what you've come up with. Last edited by cre; 12-13-2009 at 07:56 PM.

12-12-2009, 07:16 PM	#23
916MKIIIx2 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: California Posts: 152	Right now im working on putting in a custom front bumper bar as opposed to the heavy stock one, bolting that up today then I have to map out the new space ill have. But from my original planning I was planning on mounting the tranny cooler right to that bar and have it up front about 3-4 inches infront of the intercooler, the oil cooler will be put in its stock position, if anyone can think of a better spot post it up. Last edited by 916MKIIIx2; 12-12-2009 at 08:16 PM.

12-13-2009, 07:07 PM	#24
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	That sounds fine, I prefer having oil coolers behind the IC for added protection myself. Off Topic: I was just thinking the other day about getting an aluminum bumper support built for my car.... heh, cool. How are you building yours? Is it steel or aluminum? Any numbers on how much weight you've managed to cut off? __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar ---> Last edited by cre; 12-13-2009 at 07:57 PM.

01-18-2010, 04:30 AM	#29
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	I only had to make two or three clips from some 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum stock from Home Depot. They're only around 2" to 3" long and just have a bend in the middle to offset them... it was really easy. No pics though, sorry. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

12-16-2009, 07:34 PM	#25
916MKIIIx2 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: California Posts: 152	Going with aluminum, but from what my instructors told me and from what I looked up, you don't even need the bumper bar, and I believe I managed to get out about 30lbs from the front taking out the big ass blast bard and brackets that held it. New bar is about 10 lbs, only problem with the alumi bar is it didnt really weld well to the frame work so we had to setup a bolt in system which added a little bit of weight. I'll post some pictures soon as I can.

12-16-2009, 10:44 PM	#27
916MKIIIx2 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: California Posts: 152	Aye stock is bolt, I wanted a stronger hookup but ended up using the stock bolt up... But what I meant about the bar was you don't need it for the frame to stay sturdy, but yes it does save your life ;p Which is why instead of ripping it out I had a lighter one made! Moved the battery to the back as well, you'd be amazed at how different just those two things made the front of the car feel, more response less understeer.

01-16-2010, 04:58 PM	#28
916MKIIIx2 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: California Posts: 152	Alright the radiator got here last night and I went to bolt it on... Turns out I need some custom clamps somewhat like the ones used on the Koyo 1JZ radiator swap... anyone got instructions on that or something? ;p

01-18-2010, 04:45 AM	#30
916MKIIIx2 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: California Posts: 152	Thanks, I just needed the info you just stated... I know you had posted somewhere else already, just didn't find it so thanks again!

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