1986 Supra Issue
 

I recently bought a 1986 Supra, and I was having fun with it in a parking lot. I did a 180 turn with the E-Brake, and after that it felt bad. It was like it was having a really hard time going. I revved the engine in neutral, and it's fine, so it's gotta be something else. I don't think the E-Brake is sticking, b/c the car rolled just fine from a stop. So maybe its the alignment or something in the limited slip went out?

Please Help!

I'm not seeing how you came to the conclusion that a damaged e-brake is out of the question... it's the most likely problem unless you're not telling us everything (like the part where you slide sideways into a curb).


You said 1986, is this a MKIII (1986.5) or a MKII Supra? I moved this to the MKIII section assuming 1986.5 but realize I may have placed it in the wrong section.

Yes it's an '86.5 MKIII. Thank you. I didn't hit anything, but I guess it would make since that the E-Brake is damaged. I was going almost 40mph, so that could be it. The car couldn't get much over 40 after I did it, and I haven't driven it since it happened. I'll take a look at that. Thanks

While you're having fun in parking lots you'll want to keep in mind that the parking-brake (e-brake) pads on our MkIII's are super thin even when brand new, very much thinner than regular pads. They are also expensive to replace as there are no aftermarket sources that I'm aware of for them, leaving Toyota as your only option to get them.

I HATE working on our e-brakes.... so sis the previous owner of my car apparently. They had the e-barak apart at some point, and instead of reassembling they seem to have just dumped the parts in and slapped the rotor back on to hold them in. Fortunately when a part finally did seize I was only driving slowly down a side street. :( Cost a TON to have that one side rebuilt.... a frigging TON. I was sooooo pissed off. No, I didn't rebuild it myself, one of the few things where I knew I didn't have the patience.

And yes, the pads are what 1/8" think new?

Ok. So it's a partially siezed E-Brake. Right? Whats the best way of fixing this?

Take it apart and see the damage. From there you can tell which items are in need of replacing.

With a car that's over 20 years old, I suggest not to drift it unless you replace and refurbish all the suspension bushings. You are just asking for more expenses and something is likely to go and create more damage.

I purchased mine with a mint body condition but the previous owner did not treat the car well...all the bushings are shot from burning out, clutch was gone......and the list goes on.

About right, thin enough to shock the hell out of me the first time I got in there to replace the rotor and brake pads on the rear. I was in panic mode trying to find replacements until someone on a forum mentioned that they're thin to begin with. After that I looked closely at mine and found that they were virtually unscarred, probably seldom or never been engaged.

You gotta find out exactly where the problem is first. Pull the rotor and inspect the mechanism itself, make sure the cable isn't pulled tight and binding somewhere. It might be something really simple, won't know until you find out precisely what's going on in there.

Alright, thats kinda what i figured, take it apart and see how to fix it. Thanks for the help!

So it turns out the parking brake and brakes are fine. But the clutch is dead. So I'm buying a new clutch and installing it along with an oil pump and something else. So here's another question; what clutch kit should I buy? There's some pretty cheap ones, which is good, but I also want a good quality one. Under 200 dollars is nice. Any suggestions? Thanks!

What are your plans for this car? There are several aftermarket racing and heavy duty clutches available out there. But, they'll cost more that $200 for a kit.

At $200, your looking at a stock replacement system. I put a LUK clutch kit in my 1988 N/A two years ago. I drive aggressively, but not really racing or drifting. My kit was purchased at Pep Boys for $160. Came with clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pinion bearing, and a plastic disc alignment tool.

Pretty much that, somewhat aggressive, but mostly a daily driver. I am going to do an autocross competition with a friend, but after that not really anything that would need a $400 clutch.

I'm thinking something like this one... Exedy (Spline is 1 3/16 inch)

But I've looked at a couple and the Spline measurement is different by 1/16 or so of an inch. I have an 86 N/A with a 7MGE. This Perfection Clutch (I won't be getting) has a measurement of 1 1/8 inch Spline. So which is right?

From the Luk catalogue, found here: http://www.schaeffler.com/remotemedi..._170_us_us.pdf , it agrees with Exedy that the spline dia. is 1-3/16" with 21 splines. It also agrees with the overall disc diameter of 9-1/4" The correct Luk kit number is 16-018 for our cars, located on page 188.

I've seen other places selling the Exedy kit, but I have no experience with them. I've used Luk in my Supra, Celica, and Toyota Pick-up with good results. They can take a moderate beating if you do an occasional burn-out or do some performance runs. I know for a fact I abused that clutch on the pick-up more than a few times, and it still lasted better than 100,000 miles before I changed it out again.