01-08-2010, 07:02 AM | #1 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 103
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Timing issue
So.. My shit sits at 2k. and sounds like a beastly air compressor lol
The advanced timing thing is news to me. My brothers a retard, he asked my mother how to spell "or" so I'm coming to the experts, moving the advanced timing thing up dooes what? Raises the RPMs or lowers them? I want it to sit at 800-1k like it used to. Halp pwease!!
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Proud owner of a 1988 Toyota Supra Turbo, 105k Miles, and great condition. I might have to sell it to help pay for school so here's the link. http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...html#post72357 |
01-08-2010, 07:14 AM | #2 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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The ignition timing isn't an RPM control... it controls when the computer applies spark to the cylinder. It affect the RPM indirectly.
The more likely suspects are pirate air (unmetered air entering the system either via an opening in the intake piping AFTER the airflow meter or vacuum leak), a bad air flow meter, or a malfunctioning ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve. Here is information on diagnosing the ISCV... You may also need to take it off and clean it out (don't remove the three screws holding the stepper motor together though, there's nothing in there that you can service, just clean the valve. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ction=FI&P=106 I'm going to guess that you've gone and blindly screwed with the ignition timing given the text of your post.... here's how to correct that: Before adjusting the ignition timing (also know as spark advance or ignition advance) you MUST resolve any stored diagnostic error codes. Then make sure you don't have an intake leak or a vacuum leak. Do you have any error codes? Diagnostic codes: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTi...ror_codes.aspx Setting spark advance (requires a timing light): http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=IG&P=20 And I'm sorry about your brother.... even with superior genetics in a relatively clean gene pool, these things do happen. Hah!
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01-08-2010, 07:26 AM | #3 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 103
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I haven't touched it.
My brother has... lol. The TSRM to me on some things is like reading the Torah. In layman's terms. Do I have to do any major adjustments to time this manly machine? Could you explain how to do the whole process? If you have time? lol
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Proud owner of a 1988 Toyota Supra Turbo, 105k Miles, and great condition. I might have to sell it to help pay for school so here's the link. http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...html#post72357 |
01-08-2010, 01:46 PM | #4 |
Official hall monitor / search nazi - NO SOUP FOR YOU!
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Location: Canada, BC
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1984 supra - 1uzfe - w58 - 4.10 - 1 piece aluminum shaft. |
01-08-2010, 01:54 PM | #5 | |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 103
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Quote:
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Proud owner of a 1988 Toyota Supra Turbo, 105k Miles, and great condition. I might have to sell it to help pay for school so here's the link. http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...html#post72357 |
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01-08-2010, 06:32 PM | #6 |
Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Billings, Montana
Posts: 1,034
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In very broken down form, here's how to set your ignition timing:
Put engine at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke (if you have your upper valve cover off, the cam gear alignment marks should be pointed straight up with the crankshaft timing mark at 0?). Remove the Cam Position Sensor (CPS). You may need to remove a few things that are in the way, such as the intake hose that runs from the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor to the turbo, the power steering pump and bracket, and a couple of electrical connectors on the coolant temp sensors. On the shaft of the CPS, there should be a little dimple on the very end (the part that spins). Align this with the cutaway mark on shaft's alignment teeth (the gear theeth looking part that is fixed to the CPS). Carefully insert the CPS back into the cylinder head, making sure to not disturb the alignment setting you just did. Typically the CPS has to be rotated slightly so you may need to re-adjust as necessary. Reattach everything you removed, leaving the set bolt for the CPS just after finger tight. Run engine until coolant reaches normal operating temperature, then shut it off. If the engine is not running somewhat smoothly, you can loosen the CPS set bolt and slowly rotate the assembly until it evens out. Using a suitable jumper wire, insert one end into the "TE1" terminal on the self diagnostic port and the other end into the "E1" terminal (just like checking for error codes). Attach an inductive timing light to the no. 6 spark plug wire. Making sure no wires are in the way, start your engine. It is normal for the Check Engine Light (CEL) to be on. Shine the timing light at the harmonic balancer. With each flash, the timing mark should lign up with the 10? BTDC mark on the block. If it does not, rotate the CPS either way until it does. Tighten down the CPS set bolt to lock it in position. If you are not able to get it close enough, you may have to re-adjust the CPS alignment and try again. While still shining the light at the harmonic balancer, remove the jumper wire from the diagnostic box. Verify that the spark advances to 12-15? BTDC. Shut off the engine, remove the timing light, and check for error codes. If you have any, write them down and reset the ecu (pull EFI 15 fuse or disconnect neg battery terminal for several minutes). Take it for a test drive and verify that it's running smoothly, and check for codes again after you park it. Wow, that was a lot longer than I thought it'd be.... Hopefully that helps you out. To all members, if I blotched something please post to let Cyto and everyone else know.
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1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels Last edited by btwilson86; 01-08-2010 at 06:34 PM. |
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