Puzzling question

[TonkaTim]

Originally Posted by cre

Cranks fine without the TPS, trust me... the car is even drivable with out the TPS... just rough.

Tyr placing a jumper across FP and B+ in the diagnostic box in the engine bay and then try to start. This bypasses a couple relays and powers the fuel pump directly... it'll help eliminate a bad pump as a possibility.

Already done that too = (

[cre]

That at that point I'd get a gauge on the fuel rail and test the pressure.

[Green7mgte]

Originally Posted by cre

That at that point I'd get a gauge on the fuel rail and test the pressure.

damnit cre! took the words outa my mouth... (deletes post and starts over)

if you have spark. have compression HAVE FUEL. but not getting spray at the injectors something with your pressure is most fouled.
Possible causes of a fuel-related no start include:

1. A dead fuel pump (could be the pump, pump relay pump fuse or a fault in the pump wiring circuit)
2. A plugged fuel filter
3. Low fuel pressure (weak pump, restricted fuel line, low voltage to the pump)
If the pump runs and generates normal pressure to the engine, but the engine still does not start, the problem may be: 1. No voltage to the fuel injectors (blown injector fuse or bad relay)
2. No pulse signal to the injectors from the PCM (no crank or cam sensor input to the PCM, or a bad driver circuit in the PCM, or a wiring harness problem)
3. A shorted fuel injector (robs voltage from the other injectors so none will operate)

try #3.
i know these are basically shots in the dark. but through this thread and your leg work tim, we eliminated some major culprits. your fuel pump starts. you have some flow. your spark is good and so is compression and timing. running a battery of tests is really the only way to do this.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/fuel_pump_diagnose.htm
The first check would be to check for voltage at the injectors when the key is turned on. No voltage?
Try unplugging the injectors one at a time and cranking the engine to see if it will start. If the engine starts when a particular injector has been unplugged, that's the shorted injector that needs to be replaced.

and find that damn Ohmmeter
if it makes you feel better I haven't been able to bleed my brakes cause my g/f is scared of the cold.. i have allot of air in the line and will prolly take a good 20 minutes of bleeding. but I only get 5 minutes at a time with her in the garage.
Oh and check the voltage at the pump also! let us know on that..
think were wideling down the problems. hopefully

[cre]

What's the full story with this car? Was it parked for an extended period? Driver frequently? Any intermittent symptoms prior? Was any work done on the car recently?

[TonkaTim]

Originally Posted by cre

What's the full story with this car? Was it parked for an extended period? Driver frequently? Any intermittent symptoms prior? Was any work done on the car recently?

I'm the second owner. I bought it in 1990 with 36k miles. It's garage kept, stone stock. All maintence has been done by me. It's not driven daily -avg 8k a year. Only recent work was an oil change the first of Dec. Last major service was first head gasket & 3rd timing belt around 180k in 2008. Car currently has 197k. Paint still shiny except on bumber covers & mirrors, cloth interior still looks new, some minor wear on the leather trim pieces, wheel, shifter armrest/console cover. Everything works well ('cept the lack of starting for the last 3 days) even the struts on the hood & hatch hold proudly. No leaks squeaks or rattles, everything tight & right.

Hope that helps as far as story & condition of the car. I probably need to replace the tires, good tread but starting to crack on the carcass from age. Toyo Proxies from around '03 or 04.

[cre]

Okay... thanks. I don't think the dull paint on the bumper would keep it from running, but I suppose it's worth looking into.

Shouldn't be getting spark from all wires and you should have at least one code if the timing belt were broken, but you can look in the oil fill hole while someone cranks it over and see if the intake cam's #1 or #2 lobe moves.

[TonkaTim]

Green & Cre,

Want to thank you for your assist & input so far. I got up late and went to lunch with the wife (killed my morning). Plus I'm kinda draggin' today (over did it - old man thing), so I'm not feeling up to bending over a car. When I start back at it in a day or two (hopefully) I'll update you guys on my progress.

Great meeting you two. Talk to you soon.

Tim

[Green7mgte]

Originally Posted by TonkaTim

Great meeting you two. Talk to you soon.

Tim

looking forward to it.

[TonkaTim]

Green & Cre,

I promised you two I'd give an update when felt spiffy enough to work on my supra again.

Update -
Ohmed all sensors, relays, resistors, coils, etc all read within spec.
Compression check all cylinders @ 151-152 lbs.
Fuel pressure & volume fine.
Last thing I did before I quit for the evening was unplug to injector top to the #5 cylinder, metered it to see if a voltage signal was hitting the injector while cranking. No signal. So something is causing the injectors not to fire. I'll try to trace that down tommorow or tuesday if I feel up to it. Already feeling stiff (old sucks!)

[cre]

Check the Solenoid resistor on the driver's side tire well:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ction=FI&P=111