I just got a supra turbo i need help please!!!

[bradenman1]

I think iv decided to install a helicoil or another size stud in the place of the stud that backed out the threads. Id rather not buy the $70 kit to use only one of the of them. Any suggestions?

Also the guy at power fab said that i shouldnt loosen the head bolts i should just torque them to about 60 ft/lbs in the proper sequence. he said that loosening them could strip them and also cause the gasket to not seat right and create a leak.

well i took more pics:

the threads that striped



The bolt with the threads on it





My Brand new CT26!!! $703.88 later




My wrapping job to keep dirt out while i have it sitting until i get more $$$

[bradenman1]

Originally Posted by btwilson86

I turn my crank with a 3/8" drive ratchet and a deep well 19mm socket. As long as the car isn't in gear, the engine is fairly easy to turn over this way. And it can be done with the fan installed, but it is quite a bit easier with it off.

awesome that makes it easier for me once again lol less to take out and less to put back in. : ) shouldn't be more than a month untill i get my baby back

ohh i forgot to ask is it ok to use sandpaper to clean up the exhaust manifold and the mating surface on the head? there a little bit of grime that i cant quite get off with the sos pads

[cre]

Originally Posted by btwilson86

I turn my crank with a 3/8" drive ratchet and a deep well 19mm socket. As long as the car isn't in gear, the engine is fairly easy to turn over this way. And it can be done with the fan installed, but it is quite a bit easier with it off.

Pulling the spark plugs makes hand turning the crank even easier... and safer.

Originally Posted by bradenman1

Also the guy at power fab said that i shouldnt loosen the head bolts i should just torque them to about 60 ft/lbs in the proper sequence. he said that loosening them could strip them and also cause the gasket to not seat right and create a leak.

He right about concerns about compromising a composite head gasket... it's a real concern, but it's far less likely the less you loosen the fasteners... that's why you want to back them off as little as possible. Start with just a quarter turn.

He's wrong about stripping the threads of the head bolts or the CAST IRON block... and his recommended torque value is pretty much stock: 58ft lbs...

He's wrong about not breaking them loose. Do some research on striction and talk to a mechanical engineer about it's effect on torque values. If you love uneven torque and wildly inaccurate readings go for it.

Further more, as there's no lubricant on the threads they're going to have a LOT more friction across all of the connecting surface area... you could honestly torque them past 90 ft lbs and still not reach the same actual clamping force you'll get if you were reinstalling them properly lubed with moly grease and torqued to 75ft lbs. You can help smooth things out a *little* by spraying a GOOD penetrating oil at the base of the head bolt before and after cracking it loose... just soak it... and NO WD-40!

Here's some info I posted about retorquing: http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/77288-post10.html Also, everyone needs to keep in mind that the torque value you use on the head bolts or studs depends a LOT on what you're using for lubrication.

Yes, you may use sandpaper to clean up the mating surface for the exhaust mani... use a sanding block though and don't sand any more than absolutely necessary. I would use 400 grit sand paper.

[bradenman1]

Originally Posted by cre

Pulling the spark plugs makes hand turning the crank even easier... and safer.



He right about concerns about compromising a composite head gasket... it's a real concern, but it's far less likely the less you loosen the fasteners... that's why you want to back them off as little as possible. Start with just a quarter turn.

He's wrong about stripping the threads of the head bolts or the CAST IRON block... and his recommended torque value is pretty much stock: 58ft lbs...

He's wrong about not breaking them loose. Do some research on striction and talk to a mechanical engineer about it's effect on torque values. If you love uneven torque and wildly inaccurate readings go for it.

Further more, as there's no lubricant on the threads they're going to have a LOT more friction across all of the connecting surface area... you could honestly torque them past 90 ft lbs and still not reach the same actual clamping force you'll get if you were reinstalling them properly lubed with moly grease and torqued to 75ft lbs. You can help smooth things out a *little* by spraying a GOOD penetrating oil at the base of the head bolt before and after cracking it loose... just soak it... and NO WD-40!

Here's some info I posted about retorquing: http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/77288-post10.html Also, everyone needs to keep in mind that the torque value you use on the head bolts or studs depends a LOT on what you're using for lubrication.

Yes, you may use sandpaper to clean up the mating surface for the exhaust mani... use a sanding block though and don't sand any more than absolutely necessary. I would use 400 grit sand paper.

ok well ill be looking in to that alot tomorrow im off to sleep and sadly i cant install my mani or turbo untill i get some kind of new threads going and a stud that will fit it... ohh and toyota has my turbo/exhaust manifold gasket and the exhaust manifold stay bolts on back order untill god knows when hopefully ill find out tomorrow or so.

ohh and im being forced to buy new coolant lines as well to keep the warranty on the turbo. ill do some looking for that tomorrow as well

so far im getting that oil line kit from drift motion and ill be looking for a new coolant line kit

thanks ALOT guys you are making a this small nightmare easier for me with this very good information

[bradenman1]

I just discovered toyotapart.com they have my parts put no pictures wich is kinda bad. I can get my turbo waterlines for like $32 instad of 50 something.

[cre]

Champion Toyota's online shop has pictures, it doesn't give you part numbers though. Just ordered several things from them yesterday. www.toyotaworld.com, then click on the "buy parts online" link.

Otherwise you can use the catalog here to find part numbers... Takes some getting used to.

[bradenman1]

Originally Posted by cre

Champion Toyota's online shop has pictures, it doesn't give you part numbers though. Just ordered several things from them yesterday. www.toyotaworld.com, then click on the "buy parts online" link.

Otherwise you can use the catalog here to find part numbers... Takes some getting used to.

Cool ill have to check it out and see if I can find the coolant lines and that ic pipe for the turbo I got a quote for it from toyota $146 for the damn thing. Ill see what I can find iv been having a little trpuble with saome of the part numbers on the parts list thing you sent me a link to. Toyota said they cross reff to other things ill get it figured out

Edit: I tried the site with the parts numbers from that catalog and they did not show up with anything on the champion toyota site. It worked on toyotapart.com but I couldn't get pics of anything I wanted. There were 2 different water lines that came up when I searched the part number for the one I need. One had almost the same msrp as toyotas price quote it was off by like 10 cents so I'm assuming that one is it

[cre]

I know I've already posted those part numbers check if the post is in another one of your threads. Then just enter the part numbers at that website to get prices... Champion is a dealership out of TX, but they're much less expensive for most things.

[bradenman1]

Originally Posted by cre

I know I've already posted those part numbers check if the post is in another one of your threads. Then just enter the part numbers at that website to get prices... Champion is a dealership out of TX, but they're much less expensive for most things.

yeah the links you gave me in an earlier post was that catalog the numbers worked at the toyota dealer but they are not working on the champion toyota site. ill try on my computer at home and not my phone right now ill put in an edit if anything changes.

Edit: nope still wont come up i guess ill have to bite the bulit and drive back to the toyota dealer and have them order them for me when i get my paycheck

[cre]

Toyota part numbers work at Champion... You have to specify the Make that they're for.

I just pulled up the IC hose: 17341-42060 Champions sells it for $112 versus the MSRP of $145.... I'd order a universal IC piping kit at that point. sheesh...

Their system's working fine for me, so I don't know if you're cutting and pasting additional characters into it or what's up... post the part numbers back up and I'll check them too. You can call Champion and order too.