I just got a supra turbo i need help please!!!

[bradenman1]

Originally Posted by cre

I wouldn't count on the stud where the threads pulled out holding... You're best off helicoiling it while you've got things apart... helicoiling with the head already install sucks though. Which stud? Rear, center or front area? You can try just installing it and holing for the best, but don't be surprised if it fails.

Disintegrated gaskets cause a fair number of people to believe that the threads have given up when it's just that there's no longer any pressure against the nut when they remove them... that's the only reason I asked.

Its the 2nd top bolt from the back. Ill take pictures tonight. The bolts backed out and the nuts were seased to the studs. I guess I should have left that stud alone and replaced the other 6.

When I'm re torquing the head bolts is there a coolant drane plug I need to pull out on the block to drane the water jackets? And also I only had trouble getting to one stud but if I have to turn the cams how do I do it

[cre]

Originally Posted by bradenman1

Its the 2nd top bolt from the back. Ill take pictures tonight. The bolts backed out and the nuts were seased to the studs. I guess I should have left that stud alone and replaced the other 6.

I find that the ones in the back are hell to helicoil with the head in... I've done it and I hate it. Some people don't have as much trouble. A 90? drill adapter may make the job easier, otherwise, pull the charcoal canister out and I hope you don't have ABS. Just take it nice and slow. Make sure all of the sizes are right too and use a stop on the drill bit.

Originally Posted by bradenman1

When I'm re torquing the head bolts is there a coolant drane plug I need to pull out on the block to drane the water jackets? And also I only had trouble getting to one stud but if I have to turn the cams how do I do it

Nah, draining won't accomplish anything really. If there's coolant between the HG and the mating surfaces it's not going to drain out.

Pull the EFI fuse (which you should have already done, remove the fan, put a breaker bar with socket on the bolt for the harmonic balancer (the main pulley) and turn.... I'm assuming you haven't pulled the timing belt.

[bradenman1]

Originally Posted by cre

I find that the ones in the back are hell to helicoil with the head in... I've done it and I hate it. Some people don't have as much trouble. A 90? drill adapter may make the job easier, otherwise, pull the charcoal canister out and I hope you don't have ABS. Just take it nice and slow. Make sure all of the sizes are right too and use a stop on the drill bit.



Nah, draining won't accomplish anything really. If there's coolant between the HG and the mating surfaces it's not going to drain out.

Pull the EFI fuse (which you should have already done, remove the fan, put a breaker bar with socket on the bolt for the harmonic balancer (the main pulley) and turn.... I'm assuming you haven't pulled the timing belt.

No I havnt pilled the fuse or the timing belt out I wasn't planning on taking it out. I may just leave it as is if its going to take that much more time and money. I'm planing on having it rebuilt within a year or 2 any way it should last. I'm staying stock boost untill I have money for a replacement 7mgte

[cre]

I was saying that's how you do it if the timing belt is still installed... pull the EFI fuse and then rotate the crank manually. It's cake... no reason not to do it.

ALWAYS pull the EFI fuse (if not the positive battery cable) when you work on the engine!

[bradenman1]

Originally Posted by cre

I was saying that's how you do it if the timing belt is still installed... pull the EFI fuse and then rotate the crank manually. It's cake... no reason not to do it.

ALWAYS pull the EFI fuse (if not the positive battery cable) when you work on the engine!

Well iv had the cable undone sence I started working on the car. Ill look tonight and see if I can turn it with the fan in. I have some swivil saockets that may work but I don't have a brakerbar. Could I use a wratchet and the socket that fits it?

So I need a 10mill hex socket and probably hex wrench, a torque wrench, and a brakerbar

Edit: I just got a call from power fab and my turbo is in!!!! Ill be over to pick it up tonight hopefully and I believe that toyota is suposed to have my parts als : )

[btwilson86]

I turn my crank with a 3/8" drive ratchet and a deep well 19mm socket. As long as the car isn't in gear, the engine is fairly easy to turn over this way. And it can be done with the fan installed, but it is quite a bit easier with it off.

[bradenman1]

Originally Posted by btwilson86

I turn my crank with a 3/8" drive ratchet and a deep well 19mm socket. As long as the car isn't in gear, the engine is fairly easy to turn over this way. And it can be done with the fan installed, but it is quite a bit easier with it off.

awesome that makes it easier for me once again lol less to take out and less to put back in. : ) shouldn't be more than a month untill i get my baby back

ohh i forgot to ask is it ok to use sandpaper to clean up the exhaust manifold and the mating surface on the head? there a little bit of grime that i cant quite get off with the sos pads

[bradenman1]

I think iv decided to install a helicoil or another size stud in the place of the stud that backed out the threads. Id rather not buy the $70 kit to use only one of the of them. Any suggestions?

Also the guy at power fab said that i shouldnt loosen the head bolts i should just torque them to about 60 ft/lbs in the proper sequence. he said that loosening them could strip them and also cause the gasket to not seat right and create a leak.

well i took more pics:

the threads that striped



The bolt with the threads on it





My Brand new CT26!!! $703.88 later




My wrapping job to keep dirt out while i have it sitting until i get more $$$

[cre]

Originally Posted by btwilson86

I turn my crank with a 3/8" drive ratchet and a deep well 19mm socket. As long as the car isn't in gear, the engine is fairly easy to turn over this way. And it can be done with the fan installed, but it is quite a bit easier with it off.

Pulling the spark plugs makes hand turning the crank even easier... and safer.

Originally Posted by bradenman1

Also the guy at power fab said that i shouldnt loosen the head bolts i should just torque them to about 60 ft/lbs in the proper sequence. he said that loosening them could strip them and also cause the gasket to not seat right and create a leak.

He right about concerns about compromising a composite head gasket... it's a real concern, but it's far less likely the less you loosen the fasteners... that's why you want to back them off as little as possible. Start with just a quarter turn.

He's wrong about stripping the threads of the head bolts or the CAST IRON block... and his recommended torque value is pretty much stock: 58ft lbs...

He's wrong about not breaking them loose. Do some research on striction and talk to a mechanical engineer about it's effect on torque values. If you love uneven torque and wildly inaccurate readings go for it.

Further more, as there's no lubricant on the threads they're going to have a LOT more friction across all of the connecting surface area... you could honestly torque them past 90 ft lbs and still not reach the same actual clamping force you'll get if you were reinstalling them properly lubed with moly grease and torqued to 75ft lbs. You can help smooth things out a *little* by spraying a GOOD penetrating oil at the base of the head bolt before and after cracking it loose... just soak it... and NO WD-40!

Here's some info I posted about retorquing: http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/77288-post10.html Also, everyone needs to keep in mind that the torque value you use on the head bolts or studs depends a LOT on what you're using for lubrication.

Yes, you may use sandpaper to clean up the mating surface for the exhaust mani... use a sanding block though and don't sand any more than absolutely necessary. I would use 400 grit sand paper.