I just got a supra turbo i need help please!!!

[cre]

I was saying that's how you do it if the timing belt is still installed... pull the EFI fuse and then rotate the crank manually. It's cake... no reason not to do it.

ALWAYS pull the EFI fuse (if not the positive battery cable) when you work on the engine!

[bradenman1]

Originally Posted by cre

I was saying that's how you do it if the timing belt is still installed... pull the EFI fuse and then rotate the crank manually. It's cake... no reason not to do it.

ALWAYS pull the EFI fuse (if not the positive battery cable) when you work on the engine!

Well iv had the cable undone sence I started working on the car. Ill look tonight and see if I can turn it with the fan in. I have some swivil saockets that may work but I don't have a brakerbar. Could I use a wratchet and the socket that fits it?

So I need a 10mill hex socket and probably hex wrench, a torque wrench, and a brakerbar

Edit: I just got a call from power fab and my turbo is in!!!! Ill be over to pick it up tonight hopefully and I believe that toyota is suposed to have my parts als : )

[btwilson86]

I turn my crank with a 3/8" drive ratchet and a deep well 19mm socket. As long as the car isn't in gear, the engine is fairly easy to turn over this way. And it can be done with the fan installed, but it is quite a bit easier with it off.

[bradenman1]

Originally Posted by btwilson86

I turn my crank with a 3/8" drive ratchet and a deep well 19mm socket. As long as the car isn't in gear, the engine is fairly easy to turn over this way. And it can be done with the fan installed, but it is quite a bit easier with it off.

awesome that makes it easier for me once again lol less to take out and less to put back in. : ) shouldn't be more than a month untill i get my baby back

ohh i forgot to ask is it ok to use sandpaper to clean up the exhaust manifold and the mating surface on the head? there a little bit of grime that i cant quite get off with the sos pads

[bradenman1]

I think iv decided to install a helicoil or another size stud in the place of the stud that backed out the threads. Id rather not buy the $70 kit to use only one of the of them. Any suggestions?

Also the guy at power fab said that i shouldnt loosen the head bolts i should just torque them to about 60 ft/lbs in the proper sequence. he said that loosening them could strip them and also cause the gasket to not seat right and create a leak.

well i took more pics:

the threads that striped



The bolt with the threads on it





My Brand new CT26!!! $703.88 later




My wrapping job to keep dirt out while i have it sitting until i get more $$$

[cre]

Originally Posted by btwilson86

I turn my crank with a 3/8" drive ratchet and a deep well 19mm socket. As long as the car isn't in gear, the engine is fairly easy to turn over this way. And it can be done with the fan installed, but it is quite a bit easier with it off.

Pulling the spark plugs makes hand turning the crank even easier... and safer.

Originally Posted by bradenman1

Also the guy at power fab said that i shouldnt loosen the head bolts i should just torque them to about 60 ft/lbs in the proper sequence. he said that loosening them could strip them and also cause the gasket to not seat right and create a leak.

He right about concerns about compromising a composite head gasket... it's a real concern, but it's far less likely the less you loosen the fasteners... that's why you want to back them off as little as possible. Start with just a quarter turn.

He's wrong about stripping the threads of the head bolts or the CAST IRON block... and his recommended torque value is pretty much stock: 58ft lbs...

He's wrong about not breaking them loose. Do some research on striction and talk to a mechanical engineer about it's effect on torque values. If you love uneven torque and wildly inaccurate readings go for it.

Further more, as there's no lubricant on the threads they're going to have a LOT more friction across all of the connecting surface area... you could honestly torque them past 90 ft lbs and still not reach the same actual clamping force you'll get if you were reinstalling them properly lubed with moly grease and torqued to 75ft lbs. You can help smooth things out a *little* by spraying a GOOD penetrating oil at the base of the head bolt before and after cracking it loose... just soak it... and NO WD-40!

Here's some info I posted about retorquing: http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/77288-post10.html Also, everyone needs to keep in mind that the torque value you use on the head bolts or studs depends a LOT on what you're using for lubrication.

Yes, you may use sandpaper to clean up the mating surface for the exhaust mani... use a sanding block though and don't sand any more than absolutely necessary. I would use 400 grit sand paper.

[bradenman1]

Originally Posted by cre

Pulling the spark plugs makes hand turning the crank even easier... and safer.



He right about concerns about compromising a composite head gasket... it's a real concern, but it's far less likely the less you loosen the fasteners... that's why you want to back them off as little as possible. Start with just a quarter turn.

He's wrong about stripping the threads of the head bolts or the CAST IRON block... and his recommended torque value is pretty much stock: 58ft lbs...

He's wrong about not breaking them loose. Do some research on striction and talk to a mechanical engineer about it's effect on torque values. If you love uneven torque and wildly inaccurate readings go for it.

Further more, as there's no lubricant on the threads they're going to have a LOT more friction across all of the connecting surface area... you could honestly torque them past 90 ft lbs and still not reach the same actual clamping force you'll get if you were reinstalling them properly lubed with moly grease and torqued to 75ft lbs. You can help smooth things out a *little* by spraying a GOOD penetrating oil at the base of the head bolt before and after cracking it loose... just soak it... and NO WD-40!

Here's some info I posted about retorquing: http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/77288-post10.html Also, everyone needs to keep in mind that the torque value you use on the head bolts or studs depends a LOT on what you're using for lubrication.

Yes, you may use sandpaper to clean up the mating surface for the exhaust mani... use a sanding block though and don't sand any more than absolutely necessary. I would use 400 grit sand paper.

ok well ill be looking in to that alot tomorrow im off to sleep and sadly i cant install my mani or turbo untill i get some kind of new threads going and a stud that will fit it... ohh and toyota has my turbo/exhaust manifold gasket and the exhaust manifold stay bolts on back order untill god knows when hopefully ill find out tomorrow or so.

ohh and im being forced to buy new coolant lines as well to keep the warranty on the turbo. ill do some looking for that tomorrow as well

so far im getting that oil line kit from drift motion and ill be looking for a new coolant line kit

thanks ALOT guys you are making a this small nightmare easier for me with this very good information

[bradenman1]

I just discovered toyotapart.com they have my parts put no pictures wich is kinda bad. I can get my turbo waterlines for like $32 instad of 50 something.

[cre]

Champion Toyota's online shop has pictures, it doesn't give you part numbers though. Just ordered several things from them yesterday. www.toyotaworld.com, then click on the "buy parts online" link.

Otherwise you can use the catalog here to find part numbers... Takes some getting used to.