1987 turbo, Need help diagnosing!!!
 

Hello, I was driving down the freeway, and i noticed the temp was redlined. I pulled over, and let it cool. Started it again. It was missing bad, and blowing tons of white smoke. So i figured the head gasket. I was pulling it apart, and wen i pulled apart the intake, there was water in each port. I did a comp test, and it was, front to back. 125 120 120 120 150 140. The back two cyl hav oil in them. My question, is if it has good comp what is causing the problems. ( running rough, oil on plugs, and water in the intake, water in the oil, and overheating?) Any input would be great, I need to figure this out asap! Thanks

There are coolant passages running through the throttle body and through the ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve), inspect them thoroughly for holes and cracks.

As hot as your car got there still exists the possibility you did a good deal of damage... our temp gauge is very misleading as it isn't linear. 1/4" over normal is hot as hell, pegged is head warping hot.



EDIT - I'm moving this thread to the MKIII section.

ok i will. how would have oil got in the cylinders?

Leaking valve covers slowly pour oil down into the plug galley... when you pull the plug out the oil pours into the cylinder... was there oil on the socket and on the spark plug wire boots? It's very common.

the intake looks good. Is there anything that explains, Water in oil, white smoke out tail pipe, running rough, over heating, oil in the cylinders and water in the intake. I think the water in the intake was from condensation.

Only other possibilities are BHG, cracked head or cracked block. I didn't see that you mentioned water in the oil... if there was a lot then it's most likely one of these three problems.

If it is a cracked block, or head or a bhg. Then wouldnt it have low compression?

And there wasnt a bunch of water in the oil, the dip stick looked a little whiter than it should b, and under the cap, was white stuff.

No, not necessarily. It would fail a leakdown test though.

Yup, coolant in oil... that's way too much contamination to be condensation.

You could pressure test the coolant system and see where it starts pouring out of, but it's unnecessary in my opinion...

ok. i/ll do a leak down test. and get back to you. Also it had a new headgasket put on 6mts ago.

ok, so i did the leak down test. The back 2 cylinders, seemed to drop to drop slow, these r the two with oil in them. ( also the car has meen jacked up in the front for a day now, so oil would hav run back ). all the others either didnt drop, or dropped very very slowly. And i was using a comp guage. And it dosent seal very well at the o rings. I can hear it hiss from the sometimes.

it leaked slowly in the rear two cylinders.

Depending on how much oil is in there it's probably not leaking out past the rings either.. leaving you with a crack, bad HG, or bad valves. My vote is still HG or crack.

Is the coolant contaminated? Do a pH test and see if it's caustic.

IMHO, any way about it, the head is coming off.

Ok, so i just got the head off. And it is indeed a bhg. My question now is, what would hav caused the head gasket to blow if it was replaced only 6 months ago? it blew on cyl 1,3,5 between the cylinder and the water journals. Should i just put the new gasket in, or should i get the head shaved? thanks

How much work did you do to the mating surfaces before you put it back together? I would have measured for warpage on the head and the block with a gauge. Also if the head wasnt torqued properly in stages like it should be then there is another issue. Also did whoever did it use the old head bolts? You know those have to be replaced. If it were me (and with a 1JZ I dont run into the BHG problem like you do) I would take the whole engine out take it to a machine shop and have it tested for cracks first thing. Cre was trying to tell you what you already found. Have the surfaces checked for warps then if everything checks good install ARP studs and a new HG. From every 7M owner I know they Smack you if you didnt invest in them.

No, actually they don't. They need to be inspected, but they are not torque to yield bolts and may be reused.