I've got no power! :(

[Cameroonski]

Here's my situation. I was driving one day in my 1986.5 non-turbo, and i did a 180 turn. Smart me, i didn't put the clutch in all the way. So clutch was already going and i killed it. So i replaced the clutch, and put in an oil pump while i was in there (fyi I lifted the engine several inches to get the pan out). I also cleared out the Cat. So I get it all back together and im excited but then i had hardly any power (less then my 4 cylinder cherokee)! Here's what ive tested.

I replaced the distributor cap and rotor. I checked the timing, it was right. Ran diagnosis but it said everything is ok. Checked vacuum lines, everything seems fine. It has new wires and hoses.

So it seems like it has to be fuel pressure, bad spark plug, compression, or something else im not thinking about. But none of these really make since to me because it had all the power before i killed the clutch. So im wondering what happened in between killing the clutch and putting in oil pump and new clutch.

Please Help!

[suprabahamut]

See if you have any codes first. When you pulled the motor up did you disconnect any sensors like the knock sensor. It could be something pretty simple. Also with a new clutch make sure you do a break in, it might possibly be the clutch with the loss of power feeling.

[Cameroonski]

Originally Posted by suprabahamut

See if you have any codes first. When you pulled the motor up did you disconnect any sensors like the knock sensor. It could be something pretty simple. Also with a new clutch make sure you do a break in, it might possibly be the clutch with the loss of power feeling.

yes i checked it for codes and it said everything was normal. And yes I havent gone over 3500 rpm, mostly shifting at 2500. But that is not the problem unless something really weird is happening with the clutch. Because really, i have hardly any power. And where is the knock sensor? Ive checked everything several times to see if it was something simple like that, and am still kinda hoping it will be so it can be easily fixed, but ive looked over all the lines and wired multiple times.

[btwilson86]

You said you checked your timing... Are you talking about your valve timing or ignition timing or both?

[Cameroonski]

Originally Posted by btwilson86

You said you checked your timing... Are you talking about your valve timing or ignition timing or both?

I thought that goes hand in hand? I used a timing gun to adjust the timing on the belt to about 10 or 11.

And thanks krem, i guess it could be the distributor itself, i sure hope not though. It isnt an exhaust clog cuz i have no Cat, so mabe mechanically the distributor is failing. Ill replace the fuel filter with one i have in the next day or two and see if that helps.

[btwilson86]

Originally Posted by Cameroonski

I thought that goes hand in hand? I used a timing gun to adjust the timing on the belt to about 10 or 11.

Not really. The Distributor is directly connected to the exhaust cam, but you still need to verify that the 2 camshafts are timed properly to the crankshaft, and then check your ignition timing again (with the timing light). On the compression stroke, the 2 camshafts have a yellow mark that points straight up (there's a raised line on the cover behind them that you can line them up to) and the crankshaft notch should be right at 0?. Then start the car, idle it to operating temp and shut it off. Put your jumper wire in the diagnostic box and hook up your timing light. Fire the car up and set your base ignition timing to 10? BTDC. Pull the jumper out with the car running and verify that it advances further a couple of degrees, then shut the car off, tighten your dizzy, and disconnect the timing light.

Check here for more info, found this in the MKIII FAQ.

[Krem]

I had something similar... when I could get the car to start, she'd idle at 400~500 rpm before jolting soo hard I shut her off, or she died out fairly quickly on her own.. didn't matter how much gas I gave either, the rpm's stayed pretty constant. Mine is an auto, so I doubt I'd even have gotten her to turn over if I were driving clutch. At any rate it was the distributor shaft itself... mechanics didn't find it till they took the cam covers and timing case off to do the timing.. I thought it was fuel pump issue, but pressure was good, they thought it could have been exhaust system clog as well... so since you seem to be looking down that road, I'd suggest getting in there and doing the full timing job and ensure all the shafts and gears are all on the up and up.

[Cameroonski]

Ok, so I fixed the timing, and guess what, it was running great! But... it was short lived. I went to start it up today after lunch and the engine cranked and cranked but didn't go. So...

I checked spark, it was good. Checked connections and hoses, all good. Even tried to jump it. The engine just wouldnt run by itself. So i thought fuel pressure...

I shorted out the two terminals for the fuel pump, and the pump relay started buzzing and the wire got really hot. I checked the continuity in the relay and the resistor, and it said good. I did NOT check it in the relay with power hooked up to it. And when i turned the ignition to ON, the relay did not click. So does this mean bad relay? I also tried feelig the fuel line, and it didnt feel like there was pressure... So please, should i buy a new $50 relay or look for something else? Please

Side note: i did replace the fuel filter two days ago, but i looked at it and it seems fine. And yes, i do have fuel in my tank